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Paladin

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Everything posted by Paladin

  1. Paladin
    I too use the FD Polar for all my compound cutting. #5 should be big enough for what you are doing. I've not had good results with pine when compound cutting. I would stick with the poplar or basswood.
  2. Paladin
    Any familiar with both of these to make a comparison between them? I've used the FD-PS for many years, but was wondering how the Pegas DST perform. They seem to be similar in tooth configuration. I really like the FD-PSR for staying cool and not burning the wood. Most times I am running my saw at full speed and the blade can heat up quickly. Just wondering if Pegas version will work the same?
  3. Paladin
    I too only use the FD Polar for my compound cuts. Either a #5 or #3 depending on the pattern.
  4. Paladin
    Nice idea. I use carpet tack strips cut into sections.
  5. Paladin
    Been thinking about doing something like that myself to display some stand up puzzles. looks like it turned out nice - and easy to transport too which is always a plus. Steve
  6. Paladin
    One of the things I learned from cutting Keith's patterns is when doing the script-type lettering, it is easier to cut the inside of the curve first then cut the outside. This is especially important on the really thin areas. If you do it in reverse, when cutting the inside, the blade will want to break through to where you already cut. Cutting the inside first alleviates this problem and helps you to stay in the cut.
  7. Paladin
    I will contact them. Thanks for the info.
  8. Paladin
    Grizz, What kind of FD blades did you order? I ordered 3 gross of my favorite FD-PSR #3 blades a few weeks ago, and from the moment I took them out of the package they seemed wrong. The blade didn't even feel right holding it in my hand, and they don't cut worth a darn (I've used in excess of 2k of this exact blade over the years). They are jumping around corners and burning the wood on tight turns - both things that I have never experienced with the FD-PSR before. I was thinking of contacting WTB and seeing if they had changed manufacturers or something.
  9. Paladin
    Really nicely done. Will make a great gift. Are you going to put a backer on it? Think it would look great with a nice red backer board.
  10. Paladin
    If someone has a supplier of brad point bits in the smaller sizes I would love to know about them. Never been able to find the really small ones.
  11. Paladin
    My go to for thick cutting like that would be the FD Polar #5.
  12. Paladin
    love the pattern, and great cutting
  13. Paladin
    If it's something small I will drill all the holes at once. For bigger projects like your portrait, I like to drill out holes in a section and then cut that section, then move onto the next. I do this for a couple reasons - drilling 100+ holes at once can become really tedious and boring, and this also gets me up from my saw and moving around more often which helps keep my back from stiffening up too much from sitting at the saw for multiple hours at a time. I find it easier mentally to keep going on a bigger project this way too. By only cutting a section at a time, you set multiple smaller goals for yourself instead of looking at one big one.
  14. Paladin
    I'm with Joe on this one. My most used size is a #3, and my go-to blade is the FD Penguin Silver Reverse. My last couple blade orders have just been 3 gross of those at a time. They cut smooth, are very controllable, and stay cool and don't burn the wood even on really tight turns. I normally stack cut 3/4" of whatever I am cutting, so they may dull a little quicker, but I love the way they cut. I use some of the others at times, like the Pegas MGT or the FD UR, but when I need good control for fretwork, I always go with the Penguins. Steve
  15. Paladin
    BOOoooo! Go Blackhawks!! nice work on the cutting
  16. Paladin
    never thought of sinking them, I might have to test that out.
  17. Paladin
    I cut some of Alex's layered puppies last week and finished them off last night. I was thinking they would make good magnets. Has anybody had good success with attaching magnets to a finished piece? I was thinking maybe gel c/a glue should work well, but wanted to tap into our knowledge database we have here to see if there is something better suited for this. Thanks, Steve
  18. Paladin
    Keep in mind that noise-cancelling headphones are not hearing protection. The normal shop noise is diminished because the headphones emit a cancelling frequency to whatever outside noise is detected. This causes your ears to not 'hear' the noise, but the noise is still there. If you have the headphone turned off, and put them on and listen to the noise level - this is the level of hearing protection you are getting.
  19. Paladin
    I too like to keep my stacks to around 3/4, and as Wayne said, the UR#3 might not be the best blade for a thicker stack like that. It may cut a little less aggressively, but my favorite blade is still the FD Penguin Silver Reverse - and I use almost exclusively the #3 size. It cuts really smooth, and the skip-tooth design keeps it cool.
  20. Paladin
    I like using watco danish oil when I have something that I want to use oil on. I agree with the above post - I wouldn't use oil on mdf. Steve
  21. Paladin
    instead of carving, what if you used a dremel? I'm thinking maybe a cone-shaped tip or something run along the veining lines?
  22. Paladin
    I know I'm in the minority here, but I use a foot switch that I click once to turn on the again to turn off. I don't want to have to keep my foot on the switch at all times...maybe this would be a better option for you.
  23. Paladin
    I made the mistake once of cutting the outside of a circular piece first, then trying to do all the middle cuts. It is really hard to hold onto a circle and guide it through the saw. The handles would make it a lot easier.
  24. Paladin
    this one had me cracking up. haven't watched Holy Grail in a while
  25. Paladin
    cedar drives my nose crazy. but i love the smell of cutting walnut Steve
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