Paladin
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Everything posted by Paladin
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I've had good luck with the nailess ones shown here: https://www.unitedmfrs.com/Sawtooth_Hangers_s/1378.htm
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Not sure you need to stock anything different. I used the original Pegas clamp set with the white tension lever and it works fine on my Jet.
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Yes, I replaced both top and bottom clamps
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I have had the Jet 22" since the year it came out and after a couple years I switched the clamps out for the Pegas ones. It takes away the unique clamp style that first drew me to the Jet, but the Pegas clamps hold the blade a lot better. I am able to get much better tension on the blade after the replacement.
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Do you have a link to where you got them?
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Removed them from every scroll saw I've had before I even plug it in.
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I do the same as DGMAN. I usually stack cut my ornaments and like to keep my stacks no thicker then 3/4". Started planing 1/4" down to 3/16" and this allowed me to cut 4 at a time instead of 3 - makes a huge difference. Haven't had any problems with breakage at 3/16" with different species of hardwood. Not a fan of using plywood for ornaments.
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I've always gone with Volker Arnold patterns for this type of work: https://woodyoubelieveshop.com/shop/
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I've used paste wax with good results for years.
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My vote is for Aileen's tacky glue as well. Any painted backers this is what I've used for years and never had any problems.
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I got one of these back when I had a Dewalt, and it worked great: https://mikesworkshop.com/collections/accessories/products/quick-lever as others have said, just make sure to not over tighten. Steve
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Laser And CNC SVG Files For Scroll Saw Patterns
Paladin replied to kmmcrafts's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I've gotten a number of layered patterns from etsy that are designed for laser cutters. So far, with a little playing around and some knowledge gained here, I've been able to take the .svg files and save each layer as a separate .pdf file for easier printing using inkscape. Some of these patterns are quite complex and a challenge to cut, but have really nice results when finished. -
All those look great. I got heavy into the layered stuff the past couple years myself. Who are the sled patterns by? I like the look of those (but worry if I could find enough walnut for the bottom layer).
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Help needed for Excelsior Anniversay Edition 21" saw
Paladin replied to dansnow's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I'm not 100% familiar with the Excelsior brand, but does it have the knob on the top/back like most of today's saws? Adjusting that knob should change the distance between the blade clamps for you. -
Those look great. I remember seeing this pattern somewhere, but can't recall - who is it by? On the top rings, are you using a router to make the recess for the other piece to fit into?
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I did similar when mine started to feel stiff and stick a little. Just a drop of oil along the shaft that goes vertical through the clamp body and let it work its way down the hole and the clamp was moving super smooth again.
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Finnish plywood comes really thin. It is used a lot for model airplanes. I have gotten some from here before for some projects that I need really thin stuff: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/wppages/finnishbirch.php
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If you have a link for ones that go on spray paint can please list that one. Tired of rummaging through 5-6 cans to find one that still has a cap on it that is not clogged.
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I've ordered from Pedro before as well, and shipping to IL was a couple weeks if I remember correctly. He has some excellent patterns.
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Calling out to all you all you design whizzes: I am hoping to find an easy way to add an outline to a pdf pattern that is just grey against white (things like you create with Steve Good's keychain maker or patterns you get from the Holz Brothers site). I find it a lot easier to follow a thin black outline than trying to follow the grey pattern against the white paper. In my head I feel like there might be a way if I was to open the pattern file in inkscape, but I really don't know that program very well. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Steve
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Barb, what did you use to stain? The colors are really vibrant.
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Kevin, What type of weldbond glue do you use and how thick is it? I've been doing a lot of layered projects lately and have fallen in love with a glue bottle with an attached roller that I got from Rockler that works excellently with wood glue. For painted backers I've been using Aileen's tacky glue for years with great results, but I haven't tried it in one of these bottles because it is so thick I'm afraid it wouldn't work well. If the weldbond is thinner and will still hold onto a painted surface that might be the perfect solution. Hand applying the Aileen's to a fretwork piece gets kind of tedious.
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I've never had a problem with my nailer jamming. Like you said - using a nail that is just longer than the stack is thick I think is the key so that it avoids any jamming issues. I'm using a cheapo brad nailer too, so I don't think that it would be a problem with any kind of nicer equipment either. The steel usually stops the nail flush with the bottom and if any length is left, it just sticks out the top of the stack slightly. Pressing the stack down firmly onto the plate when nailing it is key as well.
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I've used a nailer for stack cutting for years and have always had good success with it. The one thing I do is use a piece of steel plate underneath when I shoot the nails - this way it stops the brads/pins from going through the bottom of the stack and damaging the saw table. Sometimes I have to use a nail just a bit longer than the thickness of the stack and this really helps.
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'Blue Tits on Hawthorn' designed by Fiona Kingdon
Paladin replied to Frank Pellow's topic in Bragging Rights
Love all the veining in the leaves. Very nice detail on this one. Well done.
