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Paladin

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Everything posted by Paladin

  1. Paladin
    Love all the veining in the leaves. Very nice detail on this one. Well done.
  2. Paladin
    Stan Lee
  3. Paladin
    I use the PSR blades for the majority of my work. They do not cut as aggressively as the FDUR, but I like the smoothness of the cut and I have better control with them even with the saw running at max speed. They also do not burn the wood when you run the saw fast (unless they are dull). They don't last as long as the FDUR and dull pretty quick especially when cutting BB. I've used the #3 the most (I usually orders just that type/size 3 gross at a time) and have cut up to 6 layers of 1/8" BB with them. The reverse teeth do not extend very far up the bottom of the blade, so you have to pay a little more attention when you initially install them. Like Dan said - the Polar blades I use for thicker woods and when compound cutting.
  4. Paladin
    I loaded it with pretty fine paper, can't remember exactly, but somewhere around 320-400.
  5. Paladin
    The sand-flee drum sander works great for sanding after something is cut. I run all my smaller projects across it and it does a really good job.
  6. Paladin
    Seems like a nice upgrade. I always thought the front of those original tables (my Jet included) was a little on the short side. Denny - any idea if that table would fit on a Jet 22"?
  7. Paladin
    did I miss a post about this somewhere?
  8. Paladin
    nice idea. might have to try that one myself. I use a brad nailer to hold together my stacks all the time, but never thought about using it like this on compound cuts.
  9. Paladin
    smooth cutting is definitely the answer. Try to make cuts like this in one continuous motion. Every time you stop and start, you will leave a mark - especially if you have to reposition your hands. Look at a cut like this before you start feeding into the blade and put your hands in a position where you can continue the cut in one motion - sometimes I have to start with my hand/arm twisted a little bit in preparation for a long curve. The less you have to move your hands around, the better your results will be. Oh - and lots of practice will help too
  10. Paladin
    Can't remember where I got it from, but when I did bookmarks before I ordered Finnish plywood from a model airplane site. It comes really thin - like 1/64" or 1/32" - it is flexible but strong.
  11. Paladin
    I was having the same problem with some cheap Menards bits. Purchased a Freud roundover, and haven't had a bit of burning since.
  12. Paladin
    trustone is a crushed stone composite material. best source I have found is: https://www.randbcrafts.com/items/tru-stone-blanks/ it polishes up really nice, although it's sometimes had to hold onto the little birds while polishing (some of them take flight when grabbed by the polishing wheel on my drill press)
  13. Paladin
    I've had some good luck with square cedar fence spindles from Lowe's/Menards as well - and they a really inexpensive. The corners have a slight roundover to them, but as long as you get the pattern on there straight they still work well - and the cedar cuts like butter. Also, last week I decided to try and alter the pattern for the bird portion of these. I like the look that I get when using trustone for the birds, but it has gotten really expensive. I figured out that you can fit two of the top profile of the pattern on each blank so now instead of 4 birds from each one I can get 8 - makes it a little more economical to still use trustone even at the higher prices.
  14. Paladin
    Started with the jim dandy on mine, but the slot in the bar started wearing a notch in it after a few years so it stopped sliding correctly. Got the Lifter from Papa's and it worked great for years before I sold the saw.
  15. Paladin
    another great one, Alex. I like it without the backer as well.
  16. Paladin
    Thanks for all the help guys. I will give some of these ideas a try. I'll post pictures once I have a piece completed (the one I am currently assembling has 11 layers).
  17. Paladin
    I've been doing a lot of layered patterns lately which leaves me with a LOT of gluing to do. I've seen it mentioned here in the past that some people roll out glue on wax paper and use that to put glue on their pieces. Can someone who does this successfully please explain the procedure to me? Hand-applying glue to all of the pieces I have right now is taken a really long time and I'd rather be on the saw. Thanks, Steve
  18. Paladin
    Just got one myself this weekend, but didn't have a chance to hook it up yet.
  19. Paladin
    Interesting to see how other people cut. Whenever I do these types of puzzles, I make the inside cuts first like you did, but then I usually cut the entire perimeter of the puzzle and then cut it into pieces.
  20. Paladin
    I have had one of the deluxe ones pictured for years and it has worked great. Has a nice heavy base to it so it doesn't move around when you don't want it to.
  21. Paladin
    I tried what Larry posted, and it worked great. Thanks guys.
  22. Paladin
    I've found a set of files for purchase online that I am interested in trying to cut. Problem is - they come in .svg format. Searching on the internet it appears that I could convert these to .pdf files using inkscape? Not really familiar with inkscape (used it twice for the ornaments from here). Does anybody know if this can be done easily? Don't want to shell out a bunch of money for patterns and then have difficulties printing them out and using them. Thanks, Steve
  23. Paladin

    Tree of Life

    Paladin replied to Fish's topic in Bragging Rights

    I've seen people post pics of these of few times. Yours looks great. Do you remember where the pattern came from?
  24. Paladin
    Nice job. You picked a pattern that is a little more involved for your first one - lots of veining in the face. there is always going to be some play between the pieces on these puzzles due to the kerf of the blade. I wouldn't suggest going to a smaller blade than #3 - if you try to fit the pieces together tighter you run the risk of them not moving freely enough to assemble/disassemble the puzzle smoothly.
  25. Paladin
    I've been using fingerless gloves for years during the winter. Even though I have a garage heater now, it will heat up the air very nicely, but the saw table still stays cold for a long time. Gloves make it much more comfortable to have your hands resting on the cold metal for extended periods.
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