Rolf

Like Blaughn said there is a small set screw under the arm it is 3/32. It is a brass set screw the wears a bit over time or backs off I am not sure but it is normal. Just us a 3/32 allen wrench and tighten it a small amount 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time until the arm stays in place. I have to do this maybe once a year depending on how much I use my saw. Sorry for the fuzzy picture I used my cell phone in selfie mode and it was a bit too close for a good focus. Hope this helps.

Nice bit of cutting. I like the backer paint work.

You wore out a Hawk 220 VS! WOW what part of it wore out? I have been using my G4 26 since 2005 and replaced one bearing.

I have been a test cutter for SSWWC since 2010 and have been a co author on a few projects ( clocks) but this is the first time I have one that is all mine. Who knew that a hobby could get out of hand like this

Could you post a picture of your Hawk and a serial number. I have no vibration issues with my G4 Hawk and would never consider changing it for any other brand. My scrollsaw is the only tool in my shop without dust collection. I don't want any noise when I scroll, other than the saw of course. I do always wear a half mask when I scroll.

Thanks Brad. I stand corrected . That is great information and I will file that away for future reference. I am so happy to hear that you are happy with the new Hawk. We don't hear much from new buyers. My basement floor is poured concrete with a diamond plate matting over it not the best for setting things level. I have wheels on almost all of my tools and I have to hunt for that sweet spot to settle them in. Regarding the casters on your Hawk that adds another couple of inches to an already tall saw, what do you use for a chair or do you stand?

You don't want the Hawk to stand on wheels, it really likes to sit solidly on the floor. I bought the Hawk wheels and front handle. They allow you to lift the front of the saw and easily wheel it around and when you set it down it is solidly on it's legs. The handle serves another function for me. I clip a bag to it and capture all of my scraps and a lot of the sawdust. It is a very heavy saw 100 lb+ I designed a similar system on a cabinet I build for my Jet spindle sander.

The Nativity is Cherry and the base is Maple. I did add a couple of tangs at the bottom of the Nativity with corresponding holes cut in the base for added strength.

I agree with your Dad to a point, I also think that a regular craft show is not the correct venue for intarsia. Having said that I usually put one of my pieces Intarsia or on occasion one of my wooden gear clocks on display in my booth with a not for sale sign on it. I could have sold them many times. So I would hang a couple of pieces with your price and the right customer may just stop by. Just do not discount your work. They have generated some very interesting conversations and really draw people in to my table. I do not normally do consignment work although I am doing a Grey wolf for an old friend.

Congratulations Tony! We are looking forward to pictures of your projects and a review of the lathe.

Congratulations Tony! We are looking forward to pictures of your projects and a review of the lathe.

Here is my version of it cut. One of my favorites Nativities. Thanks Russell

Zero clearance can be as simple as a playing card or a thin piece of wood or even blue tape, that covers the hole around your blade. It serves two purposes, one it supports the delicate work right next to he blade and two it keeps those tiny pieces you are cutting from disappearing on the floor.

On something like this I would use a combination. A couple of dabs of ca with accelerator surrounded by titebond , the Ca acts like a clamp as the other cures for strength. Like Randy said CA is not your strongest choice. I also like the Titebond trim and molding glue.

I like cutting in the 1/2 inch thickness range I feel it gives me more control. I use 1.5mm thin fin ply (1/16) so I do a stack of six. Since I have a lot of small detail on my ornaments I use the Olson 2/0 R and toss the blade every 15 minutes. No problems with fuzz, every one of my ornaments gets kissed by a 240 grit mac mop both sides.

Fourth piece! What do you mean one more try? You are doing very well with this. It needs a bit more aggressive shaping but that comes with time. You have the hard part down great fit on all of your pieces. I really like your wood selection. Is there a finish on it?

Thanks for all of the insight. So much is also local dependent, but that doesn't mean you can hose your customers. I do two venues a year one is a three day consignment event the three days after Thanksgiving across from a local vineyard. They get 20% so I mark my stuff up accordingly. They also help me with my pricing, they usually tell my prices are too low. My other event is my annual Christmas fair at our church. I have developed a strong following there. An example one item. I stack cut 6 1/16 ply for the ornament below. It takes 45 minutes to cut, add finishing, signing and packaging = 1hr for six. I sell them for $12 each. My material cost each is .25 for the wood, .50 for the box. x 6 ornaments $4.50 $72-4.50 = $67.50 for an hours work. The profit margin on some of my more detailed and special items is not so high. The second picture was at a small boutique owned by a friend that asked if I would do a small table as a trial last year. It was fun and I did surprisingly well for such a small venue. The plus is that I met a bunch of new folks and customers that will come to our local fair this year.( I hope)

If you go to Hawks web site and look up the manual with that serial number. It says it is a 216 VS Ultra. Did not know they made that model. If you need the manual it is a free download on their site. Good luck with you new saw.

That is a nice ornament and should sell very well. I like the colors. Like Dave asked, did you stack cut? I stack cut 6 at a time and my wife paints some of them. The painted and more complex ones sell for $12 the simple ones for $10. All are about 4" in dia

I do both top and bottom feed. It really depends on who's blade you are using. A #70 drill is .028 inches in diameter. The Olson 2/0 R is .026 x.011 and the 2/0 .029 x .012 If you measure the diagonal on the 2/0 R blade it is .0282. I carefully grind a sharp point on the ends of my small blades when working with these small holes. And it works well. But what I would suggest is to go with a #69 .029 or the huge #68 at .031. I also keep a small pair of needle nose pliers handy to pull the blade through on occasion. The FD FD-SR No. 2/0 0.022 0.010 15 10 FD-SR No. 1 0.026 0.011 13 7 As you see the FD blade is smaller but I have never liked the control-ability of the FD 2/0 the FD-SR 1 is a bit better but they both have a much lower tooth count than the Olson @28 tpi vs 13. I prefer the Olson for my detail work for that reason.

Maybe it is time to start buying more Hawks! I say gently not to generate any wrath towards an old guy (me) Another choice for companies like General is to bring the manufacturing back to the US where it is easier to control the quality of manufacturing.

What vintage is this saw? I know they made a new 16" when Bushton first took over but I have not seen one of them. If it is one of the very early saws (many years ago) make sure that they still have parts for it.

I use 1/6 (1.5mm) for all of my ornaments and 1/8 (3 mm) for nativities etc. 1/4 is too clunky for my taste. For stand alone projects I like hardwoods. I have a local distributor and buy them by the sheet. I think they are 50 x 50 inches.

Great looking pens, don't forget to keep your bushings labeled. I got mine all mixed up one day and had to measure them all to get them properly sorted.

Definitely worth bragging about! Great job on the bottom clamp. I love it when people solve problems..