Rolf

Scott is correct. The motor was not designed for this.

Yes it is an older model. It is not electronic variable speed (belt drive) I also does not have the blade tension release up front. If it were me I would not buy it. It would not be an upgrade technology wise. That said I would definitely go to that estate sale, who knows what you will find, especially wood.

Like Jay I always try to start and finis in a corner. I eliminates the "bump". The smallest blade I normally use is the Olson 2/0R a #70 drill is perfect. Since I stack cut all of my work I use a high speed drill press. http://www.micromark.com/microlux-3-speed-mini-drill-press,7797.html There are many alternative solutions, but these small bits like to spin fast and need to be controlled , hand drilling was not an option for me.

Never had a need for a rip fence. Did you find that moving your projects around on your auxiliary tops difficult? If you want to use one put some Formica on it for a slick surface.

For my first Bank I bought the kit from Meisel. It had all the plugs etc. Now I would cut my own. The FD polar blades cut very nicely.

For my first Bank I bought the kit from Meisel. It had all the plugs etc. Now I would cut my own. The FD polar blades cut very nicely. This design was published in an issue of SSWWC

Thanks for checking on that Scott. even if there were it would take too many parts, not cost effective. I used the new Hawks at the Open House and they are sweet machines.

Randy is right..The G4 series till now changed the bottom clamp and moved it up in front of the table angle adjustment for easy access and as Randy said made the saw a top and bottom feeder.

The Olson PGT blades cut straight and very smooth, but the smallest is a 5. I use the Mach series 3 for a lot of my projects. I do most of my Intarsia with the 3. For my fine fret work the Olson 2/0 reverse

A good quality Baltic birch should not delaminate. Baltic Birch ply in general does not stain well even when I use a pre stain on it.

Nice work. Interesting variety.

The color really made this pop.

Really nice! Text has to be cut precisely for it to look good, and you certainly did that. Love the tree design. What are the dimensions?

I had sent you an e-mail from the other forum, I had some questions that you answered here. I have not used an older Hawk with the barrel clamp on the bottom. I bought my G4 in 2005 when they turned into a top and bottom feeder. My Hawk has gotten a very heavy workout in 11+ years, it is bullet proof. The only time I top feed is when I have a very large piece of fretwork. The arm comes up so far that bottom feeding is a piece of cake. The $250 price is a great one, but I would take it for a spin anyway.

I'm with Scroll saw 703 Hawk

It has Hegner colors but I don't thing it is. There is no slot in the table and the clamps etc don't look right. It may be an ancient one but I really doubt it.

Great idea. I really like that font. It is fun when can add your own touch and and it works.

I also have both a lathe and of course my Scroll saw. My Saw paid for all of the other tools in my shop including my Nova DVR-XP 16-24 (It doesn't take much room.) Although I will add another section of bed and move the lathe to another location. The tail stock gets in the way on the short bed. If looking for a lathe I would suggest a bigger swing and enough power to turn bowls. Don't limit yourself to just pens. JMO I would not sell my scrolled work on line especially not Etsy. To me all of our wood working needs to be seen and touched for the beauty to be fully appreciated. Having said that you have to figure out what sells in your market. As far as return on time and material, I stack cut 6 ornaments at a time, for the most complex it takes me about an hour to cut and finish 6 of them. I charge $12 each. I would not get that return on my pens. I love to turn and will incorporate more turnings into my inventory but scroll work is my bread and butter. I only make things that appeal to me and my wife. That has worked so far. I am fortunate that I have developed a large following and have no competition in my area.

There was an article about this inlay technique in an old issue of SSWWC ( Fall 2009) I did a presentation on this at one of the Open houses. I had permission from Fox Chapel to use this image. Most of my inlay work is small so what I did was cut some wedges with the angle that I needed that way I didn't have to change my drill press table. You could use the edge of a block of wood cut at the right angle as a guide for a small drill or Dremel. I think Carole Rothman uses this technique for her bowl work.

I like everything about this project. your display of it really makes it pop. Where did you find that light string? If you are going to do more shaping like this I would suggest getting some larger sanding drums like what those of us that do Intarsia use. I am amazed that you did all of this with a Dremel.

Here is a picture of the lower clamp on my Hawk G4 in place.

Another idea is to drill the entry hole at a slightly different angle so that the hole goes through the waste just to the side of the cut line. No fill at all.

Rjweb the Hawk's bottom clamp is different from the Jet and the Hegners. On the newer Hawks that can be top fed. You can release the blade and re-clamp without tools. The upper arm is also spring loaded so it goes up by itself once the blade is released.

Its a great book for a fair price. Judy has several good books. Sell one puzzle and the book is paid for.

Nice cutting! I really like the saying and the font that you used.