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Rolf

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Everything posted by Rolf

  1. I like both, but for Christmas I like the painted one. I would even paint the the text and bells etc. I have used Saman stains that allow the wood grain to show through.
  2. You are right Bill there are always multiple ways to do things that is the fun part of woodworking or any project for that matter. Buying new tools is another great fun thing for me anyway. I have to make a dining room table insert quarter sawn white oak. 4 foot long by 18" wide. I will probably joint them after verifying that my jointer is still true 90 deg. Another option is a track saw for longer pieces. ( I won a Festool TS 55 at our local show last year) I used it for the first time the other day I am very impressed to say the least!
  3. 1/16 is a huge hole trying to drill with a #70 using a hand drill is a real challenge. If you are stack cutting you really have to be perpendicular to the work.
  4. It looks just like my old Delta bench top jointer.
  5. I never use any lubrication on my blade other than blue tape under my patterns. I use 2/0 Olson reverse blades when I stack cut my Christmas ornaments (6 x 1/16 ply) I toss the blade after 15 min of cutting time. Or as soon as I feel I am pushing to hard.
  6. Some nice cutting! I really like the Merry Christmas bell. A few years back I made some ornaments with svarsky crystals they never did sell very well? It would be interesting to know how yours sell.
  7. I have a Jet Vortex with a 2 micron pleated filter and ran duct work to every tool location with a manual blast gate at each location. It is fairly quiet 70-80 db at 3ft. 86% of 1 micron particles; 98% of 2 micron particles. I would have gone with a regular vortex unit but at the time they were all to tall for my space. Ends up I am very pleased with this unit. I have a remote control that I use to turn it on and off clipped to my belt. http://www.jettools.com/us/en/p/dc-1200vx-ck1-dust-collector-2hp-1ph-230v-2-micron-canister-kit/710702K . I ran 4" PVC waste pipe, not glued as my shop layout is not yet optimized.
  8. Like Hawkey I have the Jet Jointer and the Dewalt 735. For what you plan on doing with the wide boards don't use biscuits as you stated they will show. A WELL tuned table saw will give you excellent edges for gluing but I still prefer the Jointer. I had a small bench top and got rid of it as soon as I could.
  9. I have never seen that pattern, sorry. Do you remember the artist?
  10. The tiny bits like to spin fast, too fast for a normal drill press , in my opinion. I use a Micromark drill press dedicated to my scrolling. This is what I have, http://www.micromark.com/microlux-3-speed-mini-drill-press,7797.html It has gone up a bit in price.
  11. Kanst du das mal in deutch saggen bitte. Rolf
  12. I put painters tape or REMOVABLE contact paper on the wood first then attach the pattern to that. I currently use a Xyron machine to put the adhesive on my patterns. No mess no fumes and very fast. Easy to remove when done. Time is my issue not cost etc. The only time I would use graphite paper is for a wood burning design.
  13. What happened ? did you drop it? With that design I had trouble pulling the letters out especially the Weinachten ( I speak German by the way). If it were my cut yo make it clearer I would under cut the edges of the letters to make it seem that they are proud of the rest of the cutting.
  14. Nice work! What are you charging for the pens (if you don't mind my asking)?
  15. Sounds like a fun day! What saw will you be demonstrating on?
  16. The basket is great, but I really like your JIG. I am always impressed with problem solvers especially elegant ones.
  17. That is the beauty of wood. I have never used BLO.
  18. Very nice pattern Well cut! Who's design?
  19. I started with Olson blades and have tried all of the other brands. I kept going back to the Olson blades, they work best for my way of cutting. My go to blades Olson 2/0 R delicate fret work, Olson Mach 3 for Intarsia and most thicker. If real hard and thick Olson PGT blade. I do use the FD puzzle blade on occasion and their polar blades for plastic. Rarely the FD 2/0 New spiral for when I do lots of veining. Bottom line try many until you find what works best for you and with your saw and projects. Mike was a great guy I had many blade discussions with him. He helped many of us in this hobby.
  20. Dave I even use the mops on my delicate fret work. I support the back with another piece of wood. I have been using this one for years. I like them better than the regular mops, seem to last longer and more gentle for me. I use them on all of my projects. I use 180 and 240. http://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/mm07204/ I have one mounted on a motor and the other on my Sand Flee
  21. Perfect piece of wood for this cut!
  22. Good information John T. I wasn't sure when they made the changes. If it were my saw I would probably drill and tap it for the set screw. An still replace the the part. I love places like the forums where folks help each other!!
  23. Rolf

    New From SC

    Welcome to the site. You are doing some beautiful work! If it hasn't already been said wear a good quality dust mask when you are scrolling. Check out this site http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/
  24. I would certainly contact the factory to see what they suggest. Or if that screw is located elsewhere. The small brass screw sets the friction for keeping the front tension cam in place. The brass screw does wear with constant use, you certainly don't want to lube it.
  25. Amazing detail! If anyone finds a source for scale hinges please post the information.
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