Rolf
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Everything posted by Rolf
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I wear a half mask. It doesn't fog my glasses. I am not a fan of the paper masks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009XAIGY/ref=s9_zwish_hd_bw_bFkSz_g469_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_r=CWC2RNRNZF3G4AMA1SPY&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=176aeac9-678b-577e-8809-eeb5a264284c&pf_rd_i=3753541 Check out this site if you need convincing. http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-allergies-and-toxicity/
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Jim you are the master at inlay!! Regarding the scrolling vs turning pens and return for the investment. My saw cost me $1200 It almost paid for itself the first Christmas fair selling ornaments. I cut and finish six in about an hour, the most detailed sell for $12 ea =$72 -$5 for material and packaging=$67 - blades $.037per stack That gives me ~$67 per hr. Since 2005 the saw has paid for all of new tools in my shop including a new lathe and accessories. I love turning and my Nova DVR xp 1624 but it will be a long time before it will pay for itself and all of the stuff that goes with it, like the sharpening setup, 3 chucks etc. But in the end the important part is the JOY of creating and getting to play with all of the toys and the camaraderie it provide in our local club and in forums like this. I never expected my hobby to be self supporting, but yet it is.
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Dust Control is a must! IMO . That said I think I now have one of every sanding device made. But as stated above precision cutting is a key. For shaping practice I did some segmentation in cheap pine. All the pieces automatically fit and then played with the shaping until it appealed to me. When you get deep into to it a larger pneumatic drum sander and a sanding mop are my most used tools. I also use chisels and other hand tools.
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All great suggestions. I would also try and find a local club. My learning curve was reduced dramatically by watching and being challenged by my fellow club members. We have members that have been scrolling 60 years plus.
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WOW Beautiful setup and of course work! What type of show will it be artisan or craft? One suggestion, when I have multiples of an item I only put out one at a time. I think it adds a bit of urgency to the purchase. And I am sure you have signed all of your work. The only exception is when I do my ornaments. Good luck.
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I like it with the blue light.
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The results are in from my two day show.....
Rolf replied to NC Scroller's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Nice variety and setup Scott. Glad you did well. I just took some stuff out east for a 3 day consignment event that I don't have to be at. -
Thanks for the nice comments. I always stack cut 6 layers, and these are a very fast cut. The most complex being the palm tree layer. It is the painting that takes time, I also define the color edges with a wood burner to stop color bleed. The ornaments just don't pop without color, but that is only my opinion. Out of all my favorites this is the one that really got me started. It is a Volker Arnold design. When I was starting on a Delta SS350 it took me over an hour to cut a six stack with several broken blades , it now takes me about 40 minutes or less, on my Hawk G4. Still my best seller. it is about 4" tall. If I was real critical I would use a 2/0 new spiral for the veining. to hide the entry holes.
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Each layer is 1/16 painted then glued together. Too much work. I will sell them for $15
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Where did you buy them? I have had some that never did work well. And one set that never gave me a problem. HF stuff can be like that at times. I now use pneumatic drums easy to deflate.
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What size drill are you using?
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I do both depending on the project size. You should have a both button. Checked both boxes instead.
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I use a pin nailer on an anvil. Then hit them all with a small hammer on the anvil so there are no points to scratch my table and or snag my fingers. takes me a few seconds per stack.
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Das ist großartig. Ich möchte dieses Muster kaufen.
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SAW used to be THE group to join before social media really kicked in. I know that John Nelson and Leldon Maxcy are both trying very hard to get SAW back on its feet. It is a real challenge. I had heard that they published a magazine of sorts? If you have more information Rockytime please let give us your opinion. SAW is an all volunteer organization so unless we want to step up and be involved we shouldn't be too critical. I had the opportunity to be involved but chose not to , too many things on my plate.
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Your prices seem fair. They should sell quickly.
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That is a great idea!
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Dan, If you are willing to share I am curious what you will charge for them. When I did the test cut for Sue's SSWWC nativity I left one side of the Manger rough sawn for a more rustic look and the other side smooth. They pictured the smooth side. I see you also extended the top of the manger so that you have dark wood behind the star . It looks great!
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Don Which mops did you get? the Spindle mounted MAC mops.? Rocky time, those are great for rust removal!
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The Dewalts don't used sealed bearings? I know my Delta SS350 had no bearings in the rear link just holes with a metal pin through it. Once I re-greased them the saw was great. bb The Hegners have different clamps for the finer blades. And my Hawk G426 (2005) has never had any vibration or issues other than routine maintenance. Anything that has moving parts needs to be maintained, some more than others and that includes me. I think some of my joints need a bit of WD40.
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She did a great job! That project is great for saw control training.
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You want something with a chuck for the various drill sizes. The Rotozip only has 1/4 and 1/8 collets. I use a small high speed drill press from Micro Mark, but it has gotten a bit pricey. I do lots of smaller fretwork ornaments so the drill press works best for me.
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I would jump on the G4 26. I paid $1200 back in 2005 I would go 5-600 for one now in a heart beat. (If I had room.)
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I agree with you Charley, I would keep a stock of the parts that fail and repair the saw. Although when I need new tires I buy a new Car. Kidding (almost)
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Please turn your saw around!
