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Beautiful. All the straight cuts and repeated angles are not forgiving of "off-track" cuts. You did an amazing Job!!!!

We welcome even those with "split personalities"!!

Welcome to the commenting world, Gonzo. I remember when they used to call computers "labor saving devices......." Bruce

Welcome to SSV, Pop. Bruce Frozen Minneapolis

Beautiful work, Pete! I am a real fan of Sheila Landry patterns! Brenda, that is nice work. I have watched and bookmarked Travis' intersecting word art Youtube video but haven't tried it yet! Bruce (in the the frozen north)

Nice work, Barbara! As far as cutting hardwood goes, the only difference is the speed of the cut and the number of blade changes (due to dulling). I cut the pictured piece out of Jatoba wood (called Brazilian cherry in the US). It is extremely hard and dense (and isn't even remotely related to cherry). Jatoba makes hickory seem soft by comparison.

Welcome to the Village, Hendy. Bruce Minneapolis

Welcome to the forum, Scrimperuk! Bruce

I have a 3 Diopter 1.75x and am suddenly struggling a bit. By the way, the most common lenses are 3 diopter, 5 diopter and 8 diopter which translates to magnification of 1.75x, 2.25x and 3x. I would probably opt for the 5 diopter (2.25x) as that is roughly twice as much magnification as I have been working with. I found an outfit that sells one with 3, 5 and 8 diopter interchangeable lenses. https://bolioptics.com/smd-led-3d-5d-8d-led-clamp-magnifier-mg16304110/ I am dwelling on it for a bit but that looks interesting to me.

I normally prepare my stock for cutting with Walmart "Duck" self adhesive shelf paper, then comes the pattern printed on full-page adhesive labels. Finally apply 2" package tape over the pattern. This does a good job of minimizing the tendency for the pattern to delaminate and lift in those small sections. Unfortunately the clear package tape gets slippery with the fine sawdust that is missed by the dust collection system. I soon find myself pressing down way too hard to move and hold the workpiece. This brings on so-called "scroller's palsy" I have found a trick that helps. I apply double-stick tape (aka carpet tape, seam tape or golf grip-tape) to the back of used sand paper and cut these into 3/4" x 1" squares. I then remove the protective paper to reveal the sticky surface. I stick these in strategic spots on the surface of the work piece (see picture). I have found this allows me to work comfortably with very light finger pressure to the board. It has cut down fatigue, increased accuracy moving the work piece and no "scroller palsied" fingers. NOTE: If this is simply restating someone else's earlier post I will claim "Senior Moment clepto status". With my 74th birthday now in the rearview mirror I am entitled!!!!!

Beautiful job. I have made a number of Sheila Landry plaques and have one in process as we speak. Her website is a great resource. For what it is worth - I make it a habit to pick areas on the back of the plaque and matching areas on the backer board for gluing that will not show through the cuts. (Along the sides and between lines of text) I apply masking tape to these "glue islands" to keep them clear of paint and finishing material. The final step for me is to mate the backerboard to the plaque by applying glue to these areas. This method provides the best chance that the coatings will not weaken the glue joints. Since plywood is more stable than the hardwood used for the plaque it gives some assurance the glue joints will not fail as humidity acts on the piece over the years. I also put 2 brass screws in that act as a mechanical backup. Again, first rate job!!!

Love it! Very nicely done!!

Ranger was my home in 72-'73. She brought me to the Gulf of Tonkin (Vietnam) just in time for Linebacker 2 - one of the bloodiest air campaigns of the war and quite possibly the longest 11 days in my life. That campaign led to the final cease fire and withdrawal from the war. She was a great ship and never looked better than when returning from a strike. Great project and beautifully executed, Crupiea.

Here's a PDF copy of the pattern. Create in me 5c.pdf

Time to break the pencil. This seems to work for me. I am now trying to figure out how to split the PDF into two pages (versus using the "poster print" function).

Absolutely. I have learned the hard way that layout and balance need to come before dealing with the drop-outs and bridges.

Thanks Phantom. With the Palace script font I have generally taken some of the slant out to make it more readable. I forgot on this. Here it is with just a bit of slant removed. For me, at least, the slight decrease in slant makes a big difference.

Before I edit all the dropouts and font preparations - your initial impression of the overall balance of this plaque project would be helpful. When have finished this, it will be cut in Cherry. I will make the finished pattern available as well.

Beautifully executed!!

Hi Rocky: I installed a Grimes meter on my ex. I love it since it automatically activates when you push the pedal of the saw. I posted it several years ago here: God Bless

Well done. I love the way the grain interacts with the words. Beautful!

Beautiful! That will be a treasured piece!

Nice! I have so many scrap pieces, I can hardly move without stepping on them. I will have to give this a try.

That is spectacular!!! Well done!

That is highly likely, The contrast of the incredible care and precision that shines through the decay has always fascinated me.