munzieb

I had bought the EX16 to replace and old Sears this spring. It came in one well built box! The Sears drove me crazy. I had modified it so many times and it still took time just to tighten the blades right. The EX16 is well built and quiet and down feeding blade changes are a breeze. No need to look, just feel. The blower works just fine, even on slow cuts. I never hooked up the vacuum base. The pieces I cut can be very small and would clog up the container so I eventually removed it and added a plastic tub under the blade that traps all the dust and chips. The EX16 is so quiet that I can listen to music in the background while I'm cutting. Very relaxing. The tilt mechanism works well and have done a few angle relief lettering cuts. A little experimenting with depth, thickness and angles to get it just right. When I upgraded to the EX16, I went from the stone age to the jet age!

To get back in the game, you may want to try this. Swap the fixed hex screw with the thumb screw. Either Loctite or epoxy the hex screw into the stripped side and keep cutting. I had this happen to me. The Loctite was enough but I eventually bought a #6.0 1 Helicoil kit and replace the stripped out thread. I also ordered a replacement mount for my EX-16 but now I have a spare lower mount. BTW, having the "T" bolt on the left will preclude you over tightening. I actually prefer this set up now.

Ray, you have been offered many reasons for and against buying this saw. Regret is a painful thing. I have made some painful choices I have regretted and chalked them up to experience or lack of. My biggest regrets have been missed opportunities. Back in 2000 at the time of the internet bubble we bought some "penny" stocks. One of them was Amazon... It sat for years and didn't go anywhere. We made some money on some other stock and needed to take a loss and sold it. That was a missed opportunity and I do regret it. Lesson learned. The EX is a great machine and I loved it since the day I bought it and never regretted what I paid for it. I enjoy cutting with it every day. Ray....?

Ray, Tgiro's info is spot on. I went through the same issues. Bought a replacement lower but I decided to modify the original mount. Bought a helicoil kit so now it's steel thread and steel t bolt. This is all fixable stuff and it looks to still be a good buy. My ex-16 about 3 years old and works great!

Stemy, Welcome to the site. You'll find a wealth of knowledge here and help and advice when you need it. There are several patterns on hunting fishing and sports here and links to other sites with similar patterns. Welcome to the home of saw dust fanatics!

This forward backward aggressive blade motion has always frustrated me. When making tight turns or thin lines it can be hard to stay on line. I'm currently doing the Ford font script on my Mustang project and it has been a challenge to stay on track. Decided to try elevating the back of my EX-16 by adding 6 each 1/4" washers along with rotating my motor. It's not perfect but it is a major improvement. Much less bounce on the blade. I did have to go to Lowes and buy 2 #6 1.0mm screws longer than the ones currently installed. Great recommendation.

I have made several different types of boxes and try to add a felt base. I use the adhesive felt but found the stiffer type is easier to install. The thin stuff pulls too much. I will cut a 1/8" or 1/16" (if I can find it that big) so that it drops into the box and take it out and adhere the felt. I usually don't glue in place incase I want to remove it. Several people have suggested flocking. I have not tried it yet but it would not work for an extensive fretwork box like yours. If you plan on doing this in the future, add the felt and base thickness dimension to the height/sides of the box so it stays below your fret work on the bottom. I have also used 1/8" colored Plexiglas for the sides. It cuts like butter with a 60/80 tooth blade on my table saw (Leave the paper on!) I glue it on with contact cement brushed onto the wood or just go for interlocking snug fits on the sides. If you also do the felt, the base will help lock in place.

Really nice cutting! I wondered, with all those cut out pieces, could you have done a reverse pattern and glued them on a backer board using each cut layer as a gluing guide?

Dan that is a truly nice box. I have done a similar one in oak and it is time consuming and blade consuming but definitely worth the effort. Nice job!

I was using Valspar Gloss lacquer that I bought from Lowes and was very happy with the results. I went back and could not find it on the shelf? Asked the paint manager and he said that Sherman Williams had bought them and discontinuing some of the spray lines. Got the same answer from Home Depot. Tried S/W's Krylon product. Their phrase on the can is " No runs, Nor Drips, No Errors. Not so much. I used a black lacquer for the backing of one of my car projects, well it didn't cover well and dripped out of the nozzle all over the project! I probably would not have seen that on the gloss Clear Lacquer. I bought the Min-wax Spray and it works well but it scares me to think that Sherman-Williams have bought them out also! I have also used the Deft Lacquer with good results. I am concerned that there are fewer choices available...…..

Thank you Marg. I didn't think there were any Stude's in AUS but come to find out there were quite a few and many fan clubs. Very interesting since they were never a very high production car.

Glad to hear you are back to square one. Backup, backup, backup and stay away from the weasel Ted!

Thanks All, Charles Dearing has some very detailed and challenging projects. There is always a bit of planning because the pattern is always bigger then the throat of my saw. I have to drill multiple holes to change the direction of the cut. Blue tape is my friend especially when I cut out large sections and things get floppy. I'm on to other projects. I'm going back to domed boxes but this time I am making 3 and making molding jigs for the tops. With the I-Box I can knock out the box portion in no time. Next week my steamer comes and I build the box, "I'm full steam ahead" LOL!

Fish, This Ted's Woodworking plans is an insidious web site. Like you, I got trapped on his site and one time actually sat through his whole boring spiel. No mater how you try to leave, it goes back to his page like an endless loop. He will even tag onto other wood working sites on various search engines. The only way I could get out of it was to open the task bar window and close out the internet explorer. This guy is a plague and the IP should shut him down. As to your computer, there is a long winded process to get your files back and I have had to do this before. My computer had "The Blue Screen of Death" and there was no way of bringing it back. I had had it for a while and decided to upgrade. Each time one of my computers have died, I purchased a adaptor that will accept a stand alone hard drive. It's a case that is screwed together and your old HD mounts inside. It comes with a power supply and a USB adaptor cable that will hook up to another computer. Chances are that you operating system failed but all your other files should still be available on the HD. Once you plug it in is should come up with a drive letter on your file directory and you should be able to access them from the remote drive. Tough part may be getting the old HD out. Most upright case units are pretty easy. Remove the cover, unplug and unscrew the HD. There may be some mounting plates for your computer that may need to be removed to mount into the remote unit. I had a Dell "all in one" unit and it was more involved to get the HD out. This is an example of one of the HD enclosures. I don't have the particular model shown but they all, pretty much, work the same. There are also adaptor cables available but once you have the enclosure, you have a backup drive. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Protronix-E35-B-USB-3-0-3-5-Inch-SATA-Hard-Drive-External-Enclosure/141701728628?hash=item20fe14c974:g:Gb4AAOSwQz1bCdCI Good Luck!

Your Humming bird cuttings are fantastic! My wife is crazy for them. Last year she was able to feed them with a hand feeder. Not so many this year.. so far. Just watched a Nature special on PBS on Humming birds. http://www.pbs.org/wnet/nature/super-hummingbirds-full-episode/14586/ really fascinating!

I keep going back to Wooden Visions and Charles Dearing patterns. Really like the Studebaker designs. 1/8" BBPW on 1/4" backer. Lots of cutout areas. Always need to tape everything back in place. I have to drill multiple holes since I only have an EX-16 and the plaque is 20" wide. Had to go to the copy store to enlarge it so it matched the Golden Hawk Plaque.

Brian, I just checked out your website. Where the heck have you been? It's about time you got on board! Looks like you have a lot to offer. Great to have you on board!

Nicely done, especially like the contrasting colors and grain.

WOW! It looks like a beauty parlor for wood!

That is one sweet shop!

Nice project. I like the change up from the pointed pieces at the base to the more curved pieces at the top. Steve has some great patterns.

Ray, I have used this company in the past with good results. When I built my Windsor lamp, I needed 1/8" Bubinga at least 8" wide and 10" long for the shade and he had it. I have also bought 1/8" and 1/4 BBPW. Shipping is pretty quick and prices are in line. They will also pick up the phone and talk to you if you have some special requests. http://www.woodnshop.net/index.php?p=home

Just finished the 1965 Pontiac GTO for my B-I-L. Hope he likes it. Pattern came from SSV library. 1/8" BB on 1/4" PW. Quick frame with lacquer. Much easier and faster then the Stude.

Thanks Dick, The grill was the hardest part of the project and took over 2.5 days. There was more nibbling than cutting. If I hadn't gone bigger than the original pattern, it would have been impossible to do. The rest wasn't too bad. I just saved the cutouts and blue taped them back in. It made the sanding the back a lot easier.