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munzieb

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Everything posted by munzieb

  1. It may be also possible that the amount of bite the blade takes may be too aggressive. Looking at the side of the blade mounted, the angle from top to bottom may not be close to perpendicular and takes too much of a bite. I have an EX-16 and by rotating the motor, this bite angle can be adjusted. I tend to use smaller skip tooth blades. Larger blades have larger gullets to move the sawdust and can cause jumping. Worth looking into. All the preceding suggestions are spot on.
  2. Dick, You are very welcome and you did an amazing job. I definitely enjoy cutting more than than the designing. I am new to designing and use an old program MS 3D paint that has lots of limitations. I'm a nit-noid for trying to get all the lines clean and straight and gobbling pixels. Some day I'll stretch my brain to get into inkscape or another program. I've been cutting for about 5 years now and have learned, when working with established pattern, the lines are guidelines, not fixed rules. If its too scary or doesn't make sense, plan your own path. I've kind of shied away from aircraft recently just because I didn't want to go into overload and recently bought the Alex Fox Pattern of the barn and pickup just to enjoy the cutting. My patterns of the TBM and Gulfhawk were the most complicated and I need to make things simpler. I'm nuts for the classic/historic aircraft and will probably jump into it again soon. Dick, I look forward to seeing the other cuttings. You did a great job!
  3. I am awestruck. Amazing detail.! You out did yourself, Its a masterpiece!
  4. That is really nice! An interesting addition would be to add a G clef with the adjoining notes above the keys or notes to your favorite song. A great trick question for visitors (that can read music) I like it!
  5. Beautiful, Amazing!
  6. Watching Bush 41's funeral inspired me to design and cut his Grumman Avenger TBM. Lots of very fine lines and rather than trying to recreate the prop blades, I had to make a ellipse sweep of the blade arc. The canopy was tough with all the intersecting frames. I did have to deviate from my original pattern in some areas to create more bridges. Lots of blue tape to hold it all together. 1/8" BBPW on 1/4" backer. Shellac/lacquer finish. Time to put the airplanes in the hangar for a while.
  7. Yeah, I was one too. Went to A&P after the AF and worked on Corp. Jets. My old Chief of Maint. got his pilots licence in 1930. Lots of great stories of Old time Teterboro. Met Earhart and flew DC-3'a over the hump in WWII. Working on a TBM right now. Cockpit canopy is tough. Lots of intersecting lines. BTW that painting looks great. Need to paint yellow tips on the prop.
  8. Back to doing Aircraft again (Lawson's taunt!) Always liked the Corsair. Aircraft went through lots of variations like regular canopy and bubble canopy and 3 and 4 bladed props. It was still being used by several countries into the early '50's. Cut on 1/8 BB with 1/4" backer. The design and lines are very thin and cowl flaps had me a little perplexed. It would have been tough to connect all the lines. Lettering went quick. Not sure what's next. They are predicting heavy snow in the upstate of SC this weekend so the car will go into the garage and I'll be out of the shop. Time to start hunting for some new patterns to cut.
  9. Maybe next on the list.
  10. Back to aircraft again. Germans called it the Forked Tail Devil. It flew like hell at 443 kts top speed. I did a lot of pixel gobbling to get the design right and the lines are very thin. 1/8" BBPW on 1/4" PW and 2 coats Shellac and ? coats lacquer. Love the old birds.
  11. My wife wanted a portrait of her wearing a hat. 1/8" BBPW on 1/4" PW backer. Design was not too bad. Eyes and mouth were ok. She wanted to do the nose.
  12. Damn nice! I'll guess you'll have to go to the front of the class!
  13. Rocky, I got the one from HF and it does the job. If I push the cut offs back into the holes and tape them in place, the sander gets rid of almost all the fuzz. Even used it on the 36 Ford grill with no damage. I just have to sneak/slide up on it. Can't beat it for the price.
  14. There's something about big grills and flared fenders that make you smile!
  15. Thanks, The actual dimensions are 10" x 10" but can easily be made larger. I included the pattern. The center, saw-tooth, section was the most difficult and some of the leaves could have the gaps filled in. Things got pretty fragile so I added the stained PW backer.
  16. For the clock I built, I found the plastic tubing on line and was able to order divers shot that comes in bags online also The shot allows you to add or remove for the proper weight needed. My local Lowes had some of the brass rod in stock but I was surprised to find that Truevalue also had a good selection of rod and brass plate. plastic tube: https://www.ebay.com/itm/11-7-8-Acrylic-Round-Tube-Clear-2-1-2-ID-x-2-3-4-OD-x-1-8-Wall-Nominal-/151541710317?hash=item234896fded:g:IX4AAOSwPe1T85hl Small brass tubing along with "soft shot divers weights" can also be found on Ebay.
  17. Our dentist has been doing some work for us and wanted to thank him for his good work. He has this logo on his business card and wanted to make a plaque for him. Cut on 1/4" oak and added a backer because the leaves were too fragile.
  18. Built a Wooden clock based on HolzMechanik.de purchased plans. Gear cutting was not too bad since plans are excellent. I had to rebuild several items in the plan like the fulcrum and the sprocket tooth gear because of the strain of the weights. It runs intermittently but it may be because I keep it in the garage. Several Youtube videos on his clocks. All plans are in metric. Chris always responds to his emails. Some of the parts have been modified since this video was made based on the current drawings..
  19. Not an easy cutting. Lots of very thin lines> have to revisit my original pattern for larger bridges and rework the grill and front of hood and eliminate some of the reflection on the lamps and hub caps. Grill on hors are way too thin also. Glad I went big. Board is 11.5 x 18. Putting cut pieces back in and blue taping everything down kept everything together. Things got pretty floppy with all the thin lines. Cleaning everything up with an orbital sander on the back removed all the fuzz. I still need to put a finish on. Too much rain locally for shellac and lacquer right now since I have to do it in the garage.
  20. Very nicely done. Great looking frames.
  21. This topic has been touched on in some past postings and I have run into a similar situation like you. I did an airplane plaque with text. I drilled most of the holes and started on the text. I was into the second letter (A) and the middle broke off, then that piece fell to the floor into the netherworld of sawdust and wood chips never to be found again. So much for salvaging that project. If I had not been so ambitious to drill all the holes outright, I could have used the rest of the wood for another project. Its always fun to cut away big pieces on a project but its better to work on the fine detail cuts like text or eyes or mouths on portraits, first. If you screw up, you can still use those undrilled blank pieces for other projects.
  22. That is truly a piece of art. It reminds me of the one we bought in Germany Black Forest back in '92. Old Bellow style and the man's arm goes up and down with the beer mug on the hour with the Cuckoo. Still working. I'll have to check out the plans from Scroller.
  23. Thanks Marge Thanks Marge, Cutting the text is getting easier. The Staggerwing Font was Segoe UI. It has lots of bridges. Just had to add a few to the Beechcraft text. I try to use corresponding fonts to the project I'm working on (on the web). When I did the 2 Studebakers I used that font. The same for the Boeing aircraft. I think it makes it more authentic.
  24. It was time to add my favorite aircraft to the collection, the Beech D-17 Staggerwing. As usual, the cleaning up of the design took longer than the actual cutting. More info on link. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beechcraft_Model_17_Staggerwing. Not sure what's next. I've got a beautiful 1/2" by 5.5" x 3' piece of babinga calling. Another box?
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