munzieb

My wife wanted a portrait of her wearing a hat. 1/8" BBPW on 1/4" PW backer. Design was not too bad. Eyes and mouth were ok. She wanted to do the nose.

Damn nice! I'll guess you'll have to go to the front of the class!

Rocky, I got the one from HF and it does the job. If I push the cut offs back into the holes and tape them in place, the sander gets rid of almost all the fuzz. Even used it on the 36 Ford grill with no damage. I just have to sneak/slide up on it. Can't beat it for the price.

There's something about big grills and flared fenders that make you smile!

Rolf, All your clocks are beautiful!

Thanks, The actual dimensions are 10" x 10" but can easily be made larger. I included the pattern. The center, saw-tooth, section was the most difficult and some of the leaves could have the gaps filled in. Things got pretty fragile so I added the stained PW backer.

For the clock I built, I found the plastic tubing on line and was able to order divers shot that comes in bags online also The shot allows you to add or remove for the proper weight needed. My local Lowes had some of the brass rod in stock but I was surprised to find that Truevalue also had a good selection of rod and brass plate. plastic tube: https://www.ebay.com/itm/11-7-8-Acrylic-Round-Tube-Clear-2-1-2-ID-x-2-3-4-OD-x-1-8-Wall-Nominal-/151541710317?hash=item234896fded:g:IX4AAOSwPe1T85hl Small brass tubing along with "soft shot divers weights" can also be found on Ebay.

Our dentist has been doing some work for us and wanted to thank him for his good work. He has this logo on his business card and wanted to make a plaque for him. Cut on 1/4" oak and added a backer because the leaves were too fragile.

Built a Wooden clock based on HolzMechanik.de purchased plans. Gear cutting was not too bad since plans are excellent. I had to rebuild several items in the plan like the fulcrum and the sprocket tooth gear because of the strain of the weights. It runs intermittently but it may be because I keep it in the garage. Several Youtube videos on his clocks. All plans are in metric. Chris always responds to his emails. Some of the parts have been modified since this video was made based on the current drawings..

Not an easy cutting. Lots of very thin lines> have to revisit my original pattern for larger bridges and rework the grill and front of hood and eliminate some of the reflection on the lamps and hub caps. Grill on hors are way too thin also. Glad I went big. Board is 11.5 x 18. Putting cut pieces back in and blue taping everything down kept everything together. Things got pretty floppy with all the thin lines. Cleaning everything up with an orbital sander on the back removed all the fuzz. I still need to put a finish on. Too much rain locally for shellac and lacquer right now since I have to do it in the garage.

Very nicely done. Great looking frames.

This topic has been touched on in some past postings and I have run into a similar situation like you. I did an airplane plaque with text. I drilled most of the holes and started on the text. I was into the second letter (A) and the middle broke off, then that piece fell to the floor into the netherworld of sawdust and wood chips never to be found again. So much for salvaging that project. If I had not been so ambitious to drill all the holes outright, I could have used the rest of the wood for another project. Its always fun to cut away big pieces on a project but its better to work on the fine detail cuts like text or eyes or mouths on portraits, first. If you screw up, you can still use those undrilled blank pieces for other projects.

That is truly a piece of art. It reminds me of the one we bought in Germany Black Forest back in '92. Old Bellow style and the man's arm goes up and down with the beer mug on the hour with the Cuckoo. Still working. I'll have to check out the plans from Scroller.

Thanks Marge Thanks Marge, Cutting the text is getting easier. The Staggerwing Font was Segoe UI. It has lots of bridges. Just had to add a few to the Beechcraft text. I try to use corresponding fonts to the project I'm working on (on the web). When I did the 2 Studebakers I used that font. The same for the Boeing aircraft. I think it makes it more authentic.

It was time to add my favorite aircraft to the collection, the Beech D-17 Staggerwing. As usual, the cleaning up of the design took longer than the actual cutting. More info on link. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beechcraft_Model_17_Staggerwing. Not sure what's next. I've got a beautiful 1/2" by 5.5" x 3' piece of babinga calling. Another box?

LOL!

I'm assuming you are a bottom feeder and the top knob threads just wore out. (steel on aluminum) I had a similar problem with my bottom clamp since I am a top feeder. A quick fix is to swap the knob and hex screw and loc-tite the hex screw on the right side if there is still enough thread to bite. I bought a replacement from Seyco but on the one that wore out, I a bought a tape and die with a M6 helicoil kit to mount a steel thread. I've seen the Pegas replacement and have seen good reviews. You have a few options.

I have a 10" cast Iron Sears Table Saw. I had used it on and off for various furniture and wood working projects for over 20 years. It was never that accurate until I decided to tighten it up. Once I started making small boxes and scroll saw projects, all my cuts needed to be spot on. I adjusted the blade tracking and zeroed the angle stops. I still have the manual! and all adjustments are detailed. I always use a digital angle meter for miter cuts since the front facing indicator is a "sort of" thing. This saw is a belt drive and I have not had issues with it bogging down. After 20+ years it was time to replace the belt because it had stretched to the end stop and occasionally the belt pulley will track out and rub on the side of the case. I loosen the hex screw and push it back in place. I have made a few jigs and added some storage underneath the one side to keep my assorted tools specific to the saw. I have a dust catcher base I attach it to my shopvac. I do need to remove the MDF blocking plate when doing angle cuts since the motor rotates. I live and breath my miter sled and flat sled. It makes quick work of molding and small pieces. Both plans from Woodsmith. I have an I-Box tool that allows me to knock box joint boxes quickly. The 1/4" PW board on top is a great AUX work surface. Only thing I still need is to do is make an end feed attachment. The unit is on a roller stand and I can quickly rotate it when I need to cut large panels. Even though its old like me, it still works good!

I've always had a thing for these old Grumman aircraft. The F3F was the last Bi-Plane fighter the Navy used for carrier service. I spent many hours cleaning up pixels to make this ready for cutting. Lots of thin lines (ref. Scoreing thread) and cutting was a little challenge. I cut a matching 1/4" backing and paint it black acrylic. I was going to contact spray the "back" of the cutting but the phone rang and I picked it up (scam Call!) I got back to my project and starting spraying and quickly realized I WAS SPRAYING THE FRONT!!!. I could have gotton away with it but for the TEXT.... I have a 5 gallon can of "OFF". Now I have a 4 gallon can of "OFF" Found a shallow baking pan and proceeded to use up a bunch of papertowels to clean it up. I did a whole lot of scraping in the cuttings to clean out the glue and sanding to get it back to where I should have been 2 hours earlier.... Finally got it done. Watch those distractions...

Thanks Kevin. Chalk folded in 2007 after an accident with one of their turbo Mallards in 2005. More info in Wikipedia.

Thanks guys. I've been a on few amphibians over they years and that roar of the engines and the shoreline quickly passing by and that slight slapping of the hull and spray on the windows and that slight imperceptional lift when the water breaks from the edge of the hull as it lifts off is just sooo cool. When landing, that slight nose high attitude and it touches down and blows back on the sides and windows and the engines slowly powers down and taxi's in, can't be beat. Sorry, I'm having my Miami Vice moment. Launch is waiting for my limo to pick me up. LOL!!! Ha! DREAMS!

Time to do another Aircraft. I have a love of amphibians and sea planes and thought I'd give a shot at the Grumman G-73 Mallard. They were made from 1946 to 1951 and only 59 were manufactured. Chalk Airlines out of Miami operated several and were featured in the intro to Miami Vice. This plaque is 10" x 17" and is made from 1/8" Baltic Birch with a 1/4" backer.

Totally wonderful. Great Job!

Right On Marg! Eyes, Mouth, Nose. I only drill those areas first. If I screw up, I still have a pretty good piece of scrap wood for the next project.

I was going through some pictures of our last trip to Las Vegas and found a picture of one of our company partners and his wife. We were having dinner at the Cosmopolitain. Great time.! 1/8" BBPW on 1/4" backer and lacqured. The cutting definitely goes faster than cleaning up the pattern. I always do the eyes first because if I screw them up, I might as well start again.