munzieb

I have used these guys in the past with good luck. http://www.woodnshop.com/

For what it's worth, I've used these guys in the past with good results. Pricing depends on what your project is worth. https://www.ebay.com/str/popdisplays/Colored-Plexiglass-Acrylic/_i.html?_pgn=4&_storecat=12466151

Really nicely done. Love the detail work!

I have used 1/8" plexiglas sheets for several projects including lamp shades (amber) and as a backing for welcome pineapples(yellow). It cuts well with a 70 tooth table saw blade but does leave a lot of dust. A fine, slow scroll saw works well also. It's important to leave the adhesive protective paper when cutting. It great for marking also. When building the lampshades, I remove one side to allow for a filter/parchment paper look.

Not quite ready for a video but here are some drawings that may help if you make one. I used posts in the center for the pivot point but next time I will just tie the strings to a center string. I would use a shim in the center between the posts pins to give the string some room to move. Still fingering out what the best string is to use. Not really happy with the one I used. It needed to be stiffer. Used knots and glued at the limb holes. I need to try something different there too. It's a work in progress.

My wife and I were talking about toys we got for Christmas many years ago and she said, as a very young girl, she got a Hampelmann puppet. (Jumping Jack) I decided to surprise her and found a picture and and cut out the pieces on the scroll saw and pasted the cut outs of the picture on to the pieces. Used 1/8" dowl for the pivots. Hardest part was locating the hole locations on the joints and the center pins where the string wraps around to lift the joints. A fun project and she really appreciated it.

Thank you. I look forward to seeing them after Christmas.

Well done. Like the wood tone colors.

Just finished my final Christmas gift for this year. My nephew and his wife are visiting the weekend after Christmas and decided to do a portrait of them. as usual the design took longer than the actual cutting. 3 days to clean up the photo and one day to cut. 1/8 BBPW on 1/4" backer. Picture frame material from Lowes. Hope they like it.

Ron, Fantastic job. Love the work on the grill and the mat and frame. Another nut for old classic cars.

rJR, It's a little late to change the color of the frame. It would be an outlier with all the others I already did. Thanks for the compliment.

Back in the day, when I worked on GA aircraft, it was common to see a lot of B-18 aircraft. There was something special hearing those round engines cough on start and runup to power and then do their magneto checks. They eventually started to disappear because of an expensive spar mod. This aircraft had a long history with over 9,000 being built between 1937 and 1970. It was used by the military of 40 countries for training and utility work and there are still a few around with private owners and for freight. They could seat from 6 to 10 passengers. As usual, the design took longer that the actual cutting but it was a fun cut. Added the "prop sweep" on my wife's suggestion. It wasn't obvious in the picture but there were some minor reference marks on the fuselage to get the prop length. I used a compass to trace along the edge of the engine cowlings to get the proper ellipse angle for the prop sweep. Dim 17 x 12 on 1/8" BBPW 1/4" PW backer. Shellac and Lacquer finish. Some additional info. https://www.skytamer.com/Beechcraft_18GS.html

Thanks Kevin. Hope you are feeling better.

Jim, These are V1800 or N211-193 Hinges and the screws fit flush. I have bought from Woodcraft in the past but after looking around, there are several venders at a lower price. I also use the 96mm stop piano hinges. The box I made allows for the top to stop the top since it hits the back. The piano hinges have a stop built in that stops at 110 degree and precludes needing a chain to stop the lid. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/stanley-solid-brass-miniature-narrow-hinge-3-4-long-x-5-8-open-w-screws-2-pair https://www.woodcraft.com/products/small-piano-hinge-brass-plated-96mm-x-7mm

Stunning!

Jim, I get my hinges from Woodcraft. They are 1/8th thick at the hinge barrel. I can cut out the recess on the scroll saw if I assemble the box frame after setting the hinges but since I wanted the lower base flush and it has the 4 tongues, I wanted to make sure the 4 sides would sit flush to the base. I used the super fine saw that comes with my Ex-acto to set the sides of the hinge and cut down to the approx. depth I needed and then roughly trimmed out the recess with the scroll saw. Then I assembled the box frame flush to the base and CA/Pinnailed just the sides. ( not gluing to the base) Since the 4 sides of the top of the box were not flush, I got close on the belt sander. I have a 1/4" piece of tempered glass with sand paper that is taped down and lapped the top flush. (marking all edges with a white pencil until all lines disappeared) I have a fine rasp about the width of the hinge and got it down to the correct height. Here is where the 2 sided tape comes in handy. I position the hinge over the tape in the recess and use a my smallest hinge centering drill bit to just start/mark the the holes and then predrill all the screw holes with a finer drill bit. I wax all the screws and tap into holes. I remove the screw from the box frame and keep the tape in place. I lay out the position of the hinges on the top and apply a piece of 2 sided tape to the top of the hinges. I put the top down on the bench and position the box frame on my reference marks and press down on the frame. I use a small scraper to hold down the hinge barrel to the inside of the top and lift it off of the box frame and the hinges stay on the top. I use the same procedure to mark and drill the holes but since the top is only 1/4" thick and don't want them to pop through, I only drill 3/16 deep and tape mark the drill bit. I pre tap the holes with wax again until they stop. The screws that come with the hinge are 1/4". I use a vice grip and grind them down on the grinder to the right length. This all sounds a little tedious but once the technique is established, it all goes pretty quick. MSG me if you have any questions. I may need to eventually video this procedure.

Checked the pattern and it came from "The Timber Lace CO" in Gilroy Ca.

On the 1st box, I was a little short on the width of the wood so I dropped the scallops. On the 3rd box, I think it was a Sue Mey pattern. I'll have to check my pattern folder and let you know.

I finally finished the Renaissance Keepsake Box from the Creating Wooden Boxes book. I had actually done this box a few years ago when I still had my old Craftsman Scroll saw. That had taken me a month and I used Padauk wood. Bottom feeding with this fine pattern and using hex nuts to tighten the blades was a pain. Love my EX. I found some nice 1/4" board Bubinga at the Klingspor expo last month and wanted to use a wood that didn't darken like the Padauk. I really like the deep color and luster of the Bubinga. It was a lot easier top feeding with my EX-16 but it still took a while to cut over 600 holes and broke a whole lot of .02 blades. One of the included pictures is the darker Padauk box.

Thank you, I love the old cars. I bought an Integra I-Box Joint box tool for my table saw. Once it is set up, it make quick work of joint box boxes. One is bubinga and oak and the other is oak and poplar.

Stunning box! Amazing choice of wood, especially the Holly.

Thanks Denny. I was making so many frames for myself and my wife's paintings, I decided to make a miter sled for my table saw. Found the design from Woodsmith? I buy the trim moulding from Lowes. I flush mount it to the plaque with CA glue and use 1/2" pin nails from the back along with a sawtooth picture hanger. The trim is 5/8" wide and always figure that into the cut dimension of the board. I always sneak cut for a good fit.

I've tapped out the Auburn, Duesenberg, Cord library by finishing up this 1936 Cord 810 Roadster. Plaque was 16 x 12, 1/8" BBPW with 1/4" backer. Finish of shellac and lacquer. Design (pixel gobbling) took, on and off, about 4 days but cutting about 1 1/2 days. I only broke 4 #02 puzzle blades. The Cord was a very unique car for its time. It was the first front wheel drive car with independent suspension and hidden front headlights. Too bad the company folded in 1937. There have been recreations of both the Auburn and Cord back in the '70's. More info on attached site. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cord_810/812

I've used these guys several times. I've made lots of lamps using their amber 1/8" plexi-glass. Both sides are paper adhesive and are great for marking. I use a 70 tooth blade on my table saw and it cuts like butter but makes a lot of dust. Cuts great on the scroll saw too. https://www.ebay.com/str/popdisplays.

Absolutely amazing! Your talent is showing!