munzieb

Holly Cow, I mean horse! that is amazing!!

Marg, the contrasting colors make it really stand out. Good on Ya!

Thank you all SS Villagers for your kind comments. This project was a challenge because it was a little bit of a reverse technique. I was initially concerned that the whole thing would fall apart when I was done, but it stuck together. I definitely want to do the Umbria font again. This was size 48 and I wouldn't want to one much smaller than that.

The 1936 Delahaye 135 is a true Art Deco classic with sweeping aerodynamic lines. The Delahaye company of France produced cars from 1894 until the company was purchased in 1954 by Hoskiss. The type 135 was produced with 95 and 120 HP engines and had a r/h drivers’ wheel and was well known on the European racing circuit winning many trophies. What intrigued me most about cutting this car was that the picture of this car was mostly black so the pattern was held together more by thin lines rather than wide section on the front of the pattern. This required a fair amount of planning to get the sequencing right to retain the strength of the pattern. I pretty much had to work from the inside out doing the weakest cuts first and always reinstalling and taping the cut outs back into the plaque. I had a few peninsular cuts like the windshield wipers, door handle and turn signal that made me a little nervous but they came out alright. I really like the Umbria Font that Heppnerguy used for the B-25 pattern. It really fit the era of when this car was made. Pattern is 16 x 9.5” on 1/8” BBPW with ¼” black painted backer. The frame was a little more complicated than my usual frame. This one, I had to cut and prefit and then paint the pieces black. I then glued and pin nailed in place and touched up any gaps with black.

I had been looking at this car for a while. I was impressed with its style and innovative design. Even though the company went out of business in 1938 I was always impressed with it Art Deco features. Only 8 were ever sold and probably had to do with the cost of $10,000 back in 1933 during the middle of the depression. One of the most unique features of this car is that they put the spare tires behind the front tires in a concealed panel. Different from cars of that era that had them mounted on the running board. I believe that gave them more room on the interior. As usual, the design clean up took longer than the actual cutting. (2.5 days) I went bigger because I wanted to get the grill right. I used my straight edge scoring technique for the grill lines and I painted in some of the bridges on the hub cap and body lines. The 1/8" plaque is 11.5 x 18" on 1/4" backer. Finish is shellac with Clear Gloss Lacquer.

Imaginative idea and wonderful work. I may need to try this sometime. Kind of like a Schwibbogen in reverse!

I bought this tool a few years ago and love it. Once it's set up you can knock out box joint boxes in a few minutes. https://incra.com/precision_fences-ibox.html

My creative juices were running dry and my wife asked about me making another joint box box she could paint a still life. I had plenty of 1/4" poplar so the sawdust started flying. Once my I-Box tool was set up, I was was done with the cutting in a few minutes. I added a tray too. Painting came out great!

Kevin, I had to go to the "Way Back Machine" to find a picture of a PBY I did in 2019. I have been communicating with Harry Hill, the son of Frank Hill of Hill Aircraft. He hangs out at https://www.facebook.com/groups/993902267292120/?ref=group_header on Face book. When I spoke with him recently, he mentioned the PBY they used to operate.

I did the original Howard 500 plaque for a friend back in 7/17 because he had flown this aircraft many years ago. He invited me to join a FB group dedicated to recip corp aircraft. I posted it on that site an a member said that his Dad (+) had brought it back from Canada for restoration at his shop in FFL and he had also flown it for a few years before they sold it. Made a plaque for him also but added his Dad's company name. I made some mods to the original pattern for easier cutting. Some of the peninsulares were kind of floppy and thin on the nose.

The UPS Store is my go to place for enlargements. I take them a USB drive with the pattern and typically get a 16 x 14 enlargement on card stock. I'll get 3 for less than $1.50!

You're right. I had to go big and SLOOOW to make it work.

I had held off doing a P-51 for a while since a few have been posted in the past but finally decided I needed to add it to my collection. I went a little large 16 x 11.5 because I wanted to put a face on the pilot. I also did my paint in method on the fuselage and wing roundels. Font is Corsair.

Great cut and nice contrast with the backer colors.

Your project came out great!. Charles Dearing has some amazing and detailed patterns. I did 2 different Studebakers. The 57 Golden Hawk had over 400 holes in the grill!

Before you start, you may want to check the back and front angle or pitch of the blade. For larger cutouts, a more aggressive angle is ok but if you are doing more delicate cuts with sharp angles you should adjust for that. I have an EX-16 and by rotating the motor (several other topics posted on this) you can change the "bite" angle. It may cut a little slower but is makes for more accurate cuts in smaller spaces.

Base coat shellac and 3 coats spray gloss lacquer.

Thanks Dave. I've got the hinge thing down pat. I posted my technique in an earlier post but 2 sided tape makes it easy. I'll mark off the outside edges of the hinge on the lower base. The hinges I use are 1/8" thick at the hinge. I actually mounted the lower hinge before I glued the box together, that way I can do all my cuts on the scroll saw. I cut down the 1/8" on the sides and trim out the recess for the hinge. I use the 2 sided tape to hold the hinge in place and drill out for the screws. I'll pre tap the screws with wax and remove the screws. Next, I assemble the sides. I remove the tape on the lower hinge and replace with a smaller piece. I put a piece of 1/16" wood inside the sides of the hinge so that it stands flush and then apply a full size piece of 2 sided tape on top of that. I'll properly position the box frame on top box top and make sure the tape on the top of the hinge adheres to the box top. I use an exacto knife to lift the hinge off the base. They will be properly aligned and I pre drill the mounting screws making sure it doesn't go all the way through by marking the drill with blue tape. I will pre tap the holes with wax. Since the top is 1/4" and screws are 1/4". I'll hold the screw with a vice grip and grind them down to the right size to fit. This actually goes pretty quick once you do it a few times. I've also done this with piano stop hinges also.

Ray, If you find a house in a development, be aware that HOA's have limitations on storing of RV on your property. Our HOA only allows 3 day visit for visitors. Storage of RV's on site has to be out of sight of neighbors houses and the road. Same applies for boats. I was going to build a detached garage behind my house that was 60' from the back of the house but HOA shot it down because we are not allowed front facing garage doors and that wasn't a option. Study, Study Study.

Thanks Todd, hope you are doing well also. Fret work is always attractive but when cutting 14 of the same pattern it can get a little repetitive. Even though the feet are small, they were more challenging to design and cut. The top is a little warped and I may have to revisit the hinges to work the alignment.

Recent rainy weather held me off from assorted outdoor projects so I decided to cut a project I had in my pattern library for quite a while. It's a narrow fret box made from Bubinga 10 x 4.5". Original pattern had straight sides and I decided to add furniture style feet. A little tricky cutting these small parts but I got it done.

Try this link Dick. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNV87woP6U0

Amazing project. A real eye catcher!

Dick, I may have sent you this video before and it is for top feeders but it may help for top or bottom feeders. https://studio.youtube.com/video/uNV87woP6U0/edit

Dick, I'm feeling guilty for sending you on this downward path. When you said you were looking for this pattern, I thought to myself, sure, this is a pattern I would like to cut also. I do spend a lot of time working on the design refining the lines with the full understanding that I know this is what I am able to cut and knowing that can modify the pattern on the fly as I cut. If the gap between lines are too thin, I can lean to the opposite edge that is meatier and also not take the cut to the very end of the drawing line either, to make a larger bridge. These are things I don't necessarily pass along with my patterns. I guess I should, now knowing it can help others cutting the pattern. I need to have more forethought when I pass these designs along. I know that the grill was a major challenge. I use the Sharktooth 0/3 puzzle blade because of the fine tooth cut. It allows me to nibble away at the holes. Looking at it now, I should try to minimize the detail and try to keep it simpler. My intent was not to send you into a funk and I truly hope you will try this pattern again. I'm here to walk with you when you are ready.