munzieb

Stunning!

Jim, I get my hinges from Woodcraft. They are 1/8th thick at the hinge barrel. I can cut out the recess on the scroll saw if I assemble the box frame after setting the hinges but since I wanted the lower base flush and it has the 4 tongues, I wanted to make sure the 4 sides would sit flush to the base. I used the super fine saw that comes with my Ex-acto to set the sides of the hinge and cut down to the approx. depth I needed and then roughly trimmed out the recess with the scroll saw. Then I assembled the box frame flush to the base and CA/Pinnailed just the sides. ( not gluing to the base) Since the 4 sides of the top of the box were not flush, I got close on the belt sander. I have a 1/4" piece of tempered glass with sand paper that is taped down and lapped the top flush. (marking all edges with a white pencil until all lines disappeared) I have a fine rasp about the width of the hinge and got it down to the correct height. Here is where the 2 sided tape comes in handy. I position the hinge over the tape in the recess and use a my smallest hinge centering drill bit to just start/mark the the holes and then predrill all the screw holes with a finer drill bit. I wax all the screws and tap into holes. I remove the screw from the box frame and keep the tape in place. I lay out the position of the hinges on the top and apply a piece of 2 sided tape to the top of the hinges. I put the top down on the bench and position the box frame on my reference marks and press down on the frame. I use a small scraper to hold down the hinge barrel to the inside of the top and lift it off of the box frame and the hinges stay on the top. I use the same procedure to mark and drill the holes but since the top is only 1/4" thick and don't want them to pop through, I only drill 3/16 deep and tape mark the drill bit. I pre tap the holes with wax again until they stop. The screws that come with the hinge are 1/4". I use a vice grip and grind them down on the grinder to the right length. This all sounds a little tedious but once the technique is established, it all goes pretty quick. MSG me if you have any questions. I may need to eventually video this procedure.

Checked the pattern and it came from "The Timber Lace CO" in Gilroy Ca.

On the 1st box, I was a little short on the width of the wood so I dropped the scallops. On the 3rd box, I think it was a Sue Mey pattern. I'll have to check my pattern folder and let you know.

I finally finished the Renaissance Keepsake Box from the Creating Wooden Boxes book. I had actually done this box a few years ago when I still had my old Craftsman Scroll saw. That had taken me a month and I used Padauk wood. Bottom feeding with this fine pattern and using hex nuts to tighten the blades was a pain. Love my EX. I found some nice 1/4" board Bubinga at the Klingspor expo last month and wanted to use a wood that didn't darken like the Padauk. I really like the deep color and luster of the Bubinga. It was a lot easier top feeding with my EX-16 but it still took a while to cut over 600 holes and broke a whole lot of .02 blades. One of the included pictures is the darker Padauk box.

Thank you, I love the old cars. I bought an Integra I-Box Joint box tool for my table saw. Once it is set up, it make quick work of joint box boxes. One is bubinga and oak and the other is oak and poplar.

Stunning box! Amazing choice of wood, especially the Holly.

Thanks Denny. I was making so many frames for myself and my wife's paintings, I decided to make a miter sled for my table saw. Found the design from Woodsmith? I buy the trim moulding from Lowes. I flush mount it to the plaque with CA glue and use 1/2" pin nails from the back along with a sawtooth picture hanger. The trim is 5/8" wide and always figure that into the cut dimension of the board. I always sneak cut for a good fit.

I've tapped out the Auburn, Duesenberg, Cord library by finishing up this 1936 Cord 810 Roadster. Plaque was 16 x 12, 1/8" BBPW with 1/4" backer. Finish of shellac and lacquer. Design (pixel gobbling) took, on and off, about 4 days but cutting about 1 1/2 days. I only broke 4 #02 puzzle blades. The Cord was a very unique car for its time. It was the first front wheel drive car with independent suspension and hidden front headlights. Too bad the company folded in 1937. There have been recreations of both the Auburn and Cord back in the '70's. More info on attached site. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cord_810/812

I've used these guys several times. I've made lots of lamps using their amber 1/8" plexi-glass. Both sides are paper adhesive and are great for marking. I use a 70 tooth blade on my table saw and it cuts like butter but makes a lot of dust. Cuts great on the scroll saw too. https://www.ebay.com/str/popdisplays.

Absolutely amazing! Your talent is showing!

Yeah! He must be flush with money now!

I made a "do Nothing machine" or trammel of Archimedes about a year ago for a project that needed an ellipse. There are several plans on the web. The narrow width is about 4". I made the groves with a router but there several ways to hold the sliding blocks in place. I hold it down with 2 sided tape and a rubber grommet to hold the pencil. If you decide to make one and you need a smaller ellipse, draw out the smallest one you can on card stock and then use a compass and then trace out a smaller dimension and cut out with a scissor and use as a template.

It's been 2 years since I was last at this show and it's about a 1.5 hr drive to get there. It was well worth the trip. There are a lot of demos and vendors but especially some great scrollers. I had a chance to talk with several scrollers but especially enjoyed talking with Steve Good. What a great and open guy. A nice experience. Spent some money with Rich at richardscraftwood.com booth. Good pricing. Interesting guy. Emigrated from Rhodesia. Definitely a well organized and interesting show to visit.

Hickory is only 1.5 hrs up the road. Planning on going and hope to meet some SSV members.

Many years ago, my wife and I vacationed in New England and decided to take a flight from Hyannis to Nantucket. PBA Airlines used to fly DC-3's to the island. The flight was under an hour and we rented bikes. We pedaled down to the beach for a few hours and then came back to the town for lunch and then flew back that afternoon. It was kind of unusual to walk up hill to our seats but the sound of those old radial engines was great. I've had the DC-3 on my scroll saw bucket list for a long time. I found a nice picture and started gobbling pixels on Paint 3D. The picture is 15 x 9 on 1/8" BBPW with a 1/4" backer. Shellac/lacquer finish. Love those old planes! Some history on PBA Airlines. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Provincetown-Boston_Airlines

Glad to hear the shed is OK. Early snow is always tough on trees that still have their leaves. Is any of the lumber worth taking to the mill? Maple can have some nice grain.

If I'm doing some simple patterns, I'll spray 3m contact medium on the paper but if I'm doing complicated or intricate designs, I'll definitely use the tape from scrolleronline.com. It's not cheap $1.00 a foot (scroller does run some promotional discounts) but I am careful to use only an the exact pattern area and will piece together cut offs to save. Removal is easy. I always pre sand the wood before applying the tape and if it binds a little, I'll use some "Goof Off" and an acid brush to lift it off. It's my "go to" product.

Great article and great recognition!

Thanks Dick. The nice thing about the design is that the top creates a stop against the back of the box so it stays partially open. The 9 mm stop piano hinges do the same thing. Maybe one day I'll try to video record the process.

Side note on mounting the hinges. I buy them from Woodcraft and the screws are 3/8" long. The majority of tops I cut are 1/4" thick. I measure the depth of wood I am drilling and mark with tape on the drill bit. Then I wax!!! the screws and pre tap the threads into the bored hole until they stop. Then its off to the grinder to take them down to the proper length. I've developed a technique that has worked well for me to mount the hinges on the base. I mark off location equidistant and measure the folded thickness of the hinge (1/8"). My exacto blade set came with a supper fine saw blade and I will cut down to the thickness of the hinge on both sides and then score the length several passes and then chezel out the middle and file flat. (if you mount the hinges before assembly of the base, you can do this with a scroll saw) I drill and pre tap the screws (wax). Here is where the 2 sided tape is a god sent. I place a small piece on the base side and a larger piece on the top side of the hinge. I position the top to the proper location and press against the hinges. I use a small blade to lift the hinges off the base and keep them adhered to the top and mark the drill holes. I then go to the procedure mentioned in the beginning of the side note for the top. This procedure will also work for the 9mm stop piano hinges too. Hope this helps.

Those are "veining" lines and are part of the design pattern. I used a #2 skip tooth blade and drilled with a .006 drill. Not really complicated. Trick is to blow them out with compressed air after sanding to keep them clear so they stand out.

I had made this box pattern a few years ago using Paduak wood and the bane of Padauk is eventually gets darker. I had some pieces of 1/4" Bubinga and wanted to try it again. I had enough pieces for the top and sides but the pieces I had for the bottom was cupped pretty good. I had read a few articles on straightening out cupped/warped wood and thought to give it a try. I put some hot water in a plastic storage tub with a weight on top and left out side in the sun for several hours. It did straighten it out. I then sandwiched it between 2 pieces of 1/4" glass with 40 lbs of weight and kept it there for a few days. Amazing! It came out straight. I used a #2 skip tooth blade and it also worked well for the veining. I built the sides of the box first and they have two tabs that insert into the base and that also helped from further cupping. I finished with shellac and some light sanding and a few coats of Clear Gloss lacquer. I posted the book I had gotten the patterns from. I have done several other boxes from this book and I like their patterns.

Nice cutting. Really like the red cedar.

I have been using this web site for a few years and they have given me good service. Prices don't include freight and it may take a few day to get depending on the shipping service. http://www.woodnshop.net/baltic-birch-plywood/