munzieb

That is a real beauty! I bet those palm leaves drove you crazy. Letters look really crisp!

Dam! You've been busy!

You did a fantastic job!. It looks great! Backer is perfect!

I study and wikipedia helps too. Thanks

The Lincoln Zephyr was named after the Greek god of the West Wind. Ford’s aerodynamic design for 1937 competed directly with the Chrysler Airflow and the Pierce Arrow. The art deco style grill and integrated front fenders combined with the teardrop shaped front lights, gave it an upscale elegant look that bespoke the Lincoln line of cars. It had a small V-12 engine with 110 HP, 4.4 Liter with a top speed of 90 mph. Its production run was from 1936 through 19 42 with over 15,000 cards produced in the first year. All production ended with the beginning of WWII and Ford discontinued using the Zephyr name after WWII. The car came in Coup, Cabriolet and 4 door models. Plaque is 1/8” BBPW with ¼” backer. Finish is shellac with gloss lacquer.

I posted this a while back and this technique works well for me. Thanks Dave. I've got the hinge thing down pat. I posted my technique in an earlier post but 2 sided tape makes it easy. I'll mark off the outside edges of the hinge on the lower base. The hinges I use are 1/8" thick at the hinge. I actually mounted the lower hinge before I glued the box together, that way I can do all my cuts on the scroll saw. I cut down the 1/8" on the sides and trim out the recess for the hinge. I use the 2 sided tape to hold the hinge in place and drill out for the screws. I'll pre tap the screws with wax and remove the screws. Next, I assemble the sides. I remove the tape on the lower hinge and replace with a smaller piece. I put a piece of 1/16" wood inside the sides of the hinge so that it stands flush and then apply a full size piece of 2 sided tape on top of that. I'll properly position the box frame on top box top and make sure the tape on the top of the hinge adheres to the box top. I use an exacto knife to lift the hinge off the base. They will be properly aligned and I pre drill the mounting screws making sure it doesn't go all the way through by marking the drill with blue tape. I will pre tap the holes with wax. Since the top is 1/4" and screws are 1/4". I'll hold the screw with a vice grip and grind them down to the right size to fit. This actually goes pretty quick once you do it a few times. I've also done this with piano stop hinges also. (since you assembled the box already, use a xacto knife to trim out for the depth of the hinges)

Any Pictures?

The 1955 Pontiac Star Chief was produced for 1954 to 1957. It had a V-8 287HP 4.7 L engine and came in a 2-door coupe and 4 door model. It had several distinctive features, 2 broad chrome bands that ran up the hood and a hood ornament with an Indian head that would illuminate when the headlights were turned on. It was also recognized by the 3-star emblems that ran along the side of the body. The Star Chief was the precursor to the Bonneville though the Chief name was associated with later models also. I had to go big on this plaque because of the size of the text. I used Good-Times font that is very similar to the Pontiac font. The dimensions are 18” x 12” on BBPW and a 1/4” backer.

Even though you are going to give it away, I think its a keeper. Nice job.

Initially I had thought about stack cutting but the cuts were so thin, I was concerned that one small slip would would have ruined several pieces. I may have considered if it was a larger (size) pattern. That's why it took so long to cut.

Whew! Finally done. I took almost a month to do this Art Deco Weave Pattern Box. I used 1/4" Padauk and there are 200 holes per panel. I used a #2 skip tooth blade. Cutting Padauk definitely requires using a mask. It has a peppery smell but the fine dust can affect you. Finish is gloss lacquer. I had thought about doing another lamp but the pattern was going in the wrong direction. I like the feet. I mounted small blocks on the edges. I had left overs from trimming the panels and used my belt sander and set the fence of the disk sander to 45 degrees. I used the miter on the fence to hold it straight and ground down to the 45. Since it's only 1/4", it went very fast. Trimmed the pattern on the scroll saw and sanded a radius on the edges of each piece. I cut off the reverse excess trim on the long piece and ground off another 45 and repeated 4 times for for the left and 4 times for the right/opposite side. Laid down blue tape and place the opposing pieces down with the matching 45's, glued and squeezed together. I set the box on a flat surface. My 1/4" glass plate is perfect for that. I CA glued each piece to the corners and made sure they were flat. It definitely gives it a more finished furniture look.

I have been buying my 1/8" BBPW from Wood-n-shops https://www.woodnshop.net//baltic-birch-plywood/ and am happy with their quality. When I am near my local Woodcraft shop I will buy from them also. Depending on where you live, shipping price can be an issue but I always buy enough to last me a while. I noticed that you used a reverse tooth blade on your project. I am not a fan of reverse tooth blades on thinner PW like 1/8". On the down stroke of a regular skip tooth blade, the blade pushes down on the surface of the table and is supported and does not pull up on the unsupported top. Even if you do stack cuts to back up the middle pattern, the top panel will be affected by the reverse tooth blade. I always lightly sand both surface sides with a 80 or 120 grit orbital sander to remove any loose fibers and better adhesion of the pattern. A light spray coat of shellac on both sides may seal and add stability to the wood. I have done a multitude of plaques using 1/8" BBPW and never have an issue with the grain of the PW lifting. For fine details I will either use a 3/0 (31 teeth per ") puzzle blade or a #2 skip tooth blade.

The tension knob on my EX-16 starting rotating on its own recently. There doesn't seem to be enough friction on the threads. Came up with a quick solution. It's not elegant but it is effective. I wrapped a rubber band around the thread below the knob and attached to the screws on either side. I usually don't make many adjustments on it so I located it a place that works.

That's the one. Works great and I do have a steel top.

My EX-16 cutting deck was getting tired looking and the vacuum holes were a pain. Several previous postings have suggested using a magnet sheet as an upgrade. My wife found a 5' x 24" sheet on Amazon for $26. For that price, why not. I took off the original deck and traced it out on the magnet sheet and cut it out with a utility knife and cut out the hole for the saw blade and laid it on the original deck. Waxed it up and it works like a champ! If it wears out, I have enough for plenty of replacements!

Penny! I actually watched an episode on YouTube the other day. Too bad he retired the original Songbird. Wing spar was rotten and he upgraded to Cessna 310. Friend had one and it was a great flying aircraft.

Bamboo Bomber In 1939 Cessna Aircraft starting to produce the model T-50 twin engine, 5 place, fabric covered transport aircraft. Its original intent was to compete with Beech Aircraft’s Twin Beech 18 at a lower price. When WWII broke out, it was enlisted as an executive trans port and trainer and went through a series of different designations including AT-17 and UC-78. The majority of production aircraft operated with dual Jacobs R-775-9 radial engines and had an operational range of about 650m. Over 4,500 were produced under various versions. The original name of the aircraft was the “Bobcat” but later many pilots dubbed it the Bamboo Bomber because of its wood and fabric construction. The aircraft is most recognizable for being in the 1950’s T.V. series Sky King. The intro of the series "Out of the blue of the Western sky comes Sky King!" and his aircraft the “Songbird” flying across the screen inspired a lot of kids of that time to get into aviation

If you decide to cut this, as you get to the center of each leaf, things get a little thin. You may want to go a little wider or don't go to the very end to leave some strength.

Here you go!

I'm always collecting and saving patterns that interest me. Recently, I've been looking at Art Deco patterns. Many of the cars I have cut are Art Deco style of the '20's and '30's. The Genre started in the early '20's with the movie Metropolis and came to an end at the beginning of WWII. I bought some 1/8" Bubinga over a year ago at the NC woodworkers show and finally found a pattern I liked. I didn't realize that when I started, there would be more than 1,000 holes! I did stack two panels at a time so it went a little quicker. The top and bottom are 1/2" bubinga. I had some parchment paper that I sprayed with shellac and then sprayed the inside of the wood pattern with contact cement and adhered the the parchment paper to it on the inside. I used a 40 W LED on the inside with a rocker switch on the wire. I think I'm back to cars and planes. A lot less holes!

Marge, Have fun. You may have a new business if they are not familiar in Australia with this puzzle! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rfNKm_vRdU

Fantastic cutting!

Love it, Love it, Love It!!!

All good stuff Frank. I did a you tube video a while back when I did the '57 Chevy. On very small holes I will grind a point on the tip of the blade end entering the hole. I did a 57 Studebaker and the grill had over 400 holes. I ended up "nibbling" all the holes rather than trying to make turns. This topic has been touched on before also, adjusting the "bite" angle of the blade by rotating the motor may help also.

I bought and cut this pattern a few years ago for a friend who is a lighthouse nut. I used 1/4" BBPW on a oak backer. My wife painted the plaque. For detailed and small cuts, I use a 3/0 31 tooth Puzzle blade. I buy them by the gross because the do break and get dull fast, especially on PW but they are the best for control in tight spaces and I always cut on the slowest speed with my EX-16. I thought your cutting looked great and if you hadn't mentioned any issues, I wouldn't have noticed it. SHARKTOOTH Scroll Saw Blades Superior Puzzle Blades Top Quality Blade for intricate puzzle cutting is one of our best sellers!! The package of 1 dozen blades are size 3/0, 31 teeth per inch and requires drill bit size 68-71. Recommended for cutting woods approximately 1/16" to 1/4" thick