munzieb

My wife and I thank you for the compliments. This was not a hard project but the fact that it was a glue-up did present one challenge. The nose landed on the glue-up and cracked. CA glue fixed that. When I do this again, I need to find a larger piece of wood.

I think this one in Prague may qualify. I only have an EX-16 so I don't think I can cut one that big with my scroll saw. LOL!

Needed to get back to scrolling after all the shop tool/jig projects. Found a quick and easy Sheila Landry Sun/Moon project. My wife added the clock and paint. Time for another project.

Just checked out all the woods you listed and they are amazing! The rosewood is very similar to Padauk but the sassafras is totally unique with all its varied grain patterns. Thanks for sharing.

Marg, All those different wood types sound amazing. Can they be found in big box stores or do they come from specialty store? I'm going to have to check these woods out on the web. Thanks, and great cutting!

Nicely Done, Marge! Wondered about the wood? Actually, you live in a part of the world that has access to woods we don't normally see in the US and Canada. Have you worked with some of these exotic woods and what type are they?

Fantastic work. Those skinny cuts can be a little scary.

Gator, you inspired me. My wife has been bugging me to make frames. I have to make a frame sled first.

Oh Yeah! Pocket hole screws! Very creative use of space. Well done!

Nicely done. Really like the dark rich sheen of the top.

I wanted to add that I did not use oven parchment paper since it is too thin. I purchased writing parchment paper for Hobby Lobby. It is thicker and easier to work with and still allows light to penetrate through.

I made these lamps a while back and, like you, I was perplexed as to how to dim the lighting. i initially started with an amber Plexiglas but the bulb (LED) was still too stark and decided to try some parchment paper. I used contact cement to adhere it to the outer inside edges of the Plexiglas. It worked out well and they sit in our sunroom and foyer now.

Hans, I am awestruck with the amount of detail and the fact that you used a spiral blade.

Wonderful work. I think our little buddies will be here in SC in about a month. Can't wait!

Ingenious! Nothing like repurposing.

Ray, you found it. That's the right kit. It has everything you need to fix it.

Last year I had a problem with the lower blade tensioner on my EX-16. ( I'm a top feeder) I guess I had been tightening it too much and the marriage of steel bolt and aluminum was not going well. The threads were not tightening anymore. Seyco had a lower mount replacement and ordered one. While I was waiting for shipment to arrive I decided to try something different. I swapped the hex screw and tightening bolt and it actually worked pretty well. I had to add some loc-tite to the stripped side and I was back to scrolling again. The new unit arrived and I stored it knowing I would eventually need it. I kept thinking about this aluminum steel marriage and knew it would happen again. I ordered a M6 x 1.0 helicoil repair kit from the internet. I kept it in standby for future repair. Today my swapped arrangement failed and the bolt kept turning.... Time for replacement. The swap out went well and I was up and running again. It was time to try the helicoil. The kit came with the correct drill bit to bore out the old threads. I used my drill press and arbor and drilled all the way through, then I put the included tap in the drill chuck and hand turned the tap to make the new thread into the housing and used cutting oil (WD-40 would have worked). Every 1/2 turn I would rotate backwards to break the cut chips free. The kit comes with a helicoil insert tool and they threaded in very easy. The kit also has a install tang removal tool. Place the mount in the vice, inserted the tool, gave it a tap with a hammer and the tang was gone. (remove tang after installing each individual helicoil) Now I'm ready for the next eventual thread failure with a modified helicoid unit. The kit came with 20 spare threads so I'm good to go.

The precision of the cuts is amazing. My Freud regular stack dado doesn't come close to this detail. I guess I'll have to put it on my Christmas list. Nicely done, Thanks for sharing.

Charley. I really like those Box joint boxes! Did you build them? I have built a few small ones but those are really nice. The edge guards and hardware make them pop!

Ron, your list is pretty complete. I do use a lot of 2 sided tape when there is not a lot of room for a clamp or I only need to hold something temporarily for marking or small pieces when I don't want my fingers getting too close to a blade. I make a fair amount of boxes and Rocker's squares are perfect for glue ups. Several years ago I bought some 1/4" thick glass shelving. When we moved, I lost the dowels but kept the glass. (safety) They are great for perfect flat surfaces and glue ups. Any residual glue cleans up with a razor blade. I also use them for lapping uneven surfaces. I'll double side tape a sheet of sandpaper to the surface and start sanding in a figure 8 pattern. I'll mark up all the surface to be sanded and when the marks are gone, the surface is even. BTW, I also use a white pencil when ever I'm working with dark wood. I also use artist/draftsman clear plastic squares and French curve kits along with various circle and square templates. Most hobby or art supply stores carry them.

Just like Kevin, My go to for fuzz removal are the HF Scotchbrite balls on an arbor. They run around $9 and there is always a 20% coupon some where.

These are all great suggestions! I have made several boxes with 1/4" solid wood tops and hinge mounting screws are always a problem. Most screws that come with the hinge are 1/4" or 3/8". I typically recess the majority of the hinge in the base and flush mount to top. That still leaves a screw too long. I will depth stop drill for the screw and wax and prethread the screw until just before it break through the other side, then back it out. I used a small vice grip and take it to the belt/disc sander and knock off the 1st few threads. It always works for me but it is important to get some wax on the threads (wax off? Ha!) to set the screw.

Looks like you are making great progress!

I scroll standing and the deadman switch would make me stand uneven or I would have to block up the other foot. I sometimes move around when I'm cutting and it doesn't work for me. I have a padded pad I stand on and carpet taped the switch to the pad.

This may be a little outside of the scroller group but I have used Plexi-glas on several of my projects and this company is very responsive. http://stores.ebay.com/popdisplays I use their amber products for my lamp projects.