munzieb
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Everything posted by munzieb
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More clocks again. Wife handed me this picture, make this! OK so I made 2, There is more table saw work than scroll saw. Only did the clock cut out of 3/4 popular with the scroll saw. Getting the pattern of the trim molding to line up and cutting the 45 degree cuts was more complicated. Determined the size of the box by the layout of the trim. Couldn't understand why the tops of the trim stood away from the box. Found out that for some reason they don't make the base at true 90 degree?? Had to put the pieces on the belt sander to make everything square and that pulled the tops back in. Needless to say, she made me work so she had to contribute to the project. More of her great painting.
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Thanks all for you kind comments. Don is the "go to" guy for pattern work. Look forward to working with him again in the future.
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Thank you Don for your great pattern assist. Those thin lines were very scary. Made sure to stick the cut out pieces back in place and tape over on both sides. Used the scotch bright sanding ball with a hand drill and it worked great removing the fuzz. Stained the 1/8" plywood backer board with ebony stain. Used hand brushed contact cement on back of cutout. It worked out great and I hope my niece enjoys it. (and remembers what it says the next time she goes flying)
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Truly impressive!
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Thanks all for your kind thoughts. I forgot to mention that my wife did the painting again on the flower clock.
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I seem to be stuck in the mantel clock mode. The gold one I made got shipped to my sister in law in Germany. BUT! my wife still wanted one so the next one was made with delft blue with white background. Then she wanted to try another paint scheme on the other one. These clock are fun to cut since the top plate is so thin. The backing is more involved since I have to cut 3 pieces of 3/4 pine (or Poplar). I match them as close as possible, stick them together with carpet tape, and then drill 3 guide holes for finish nails for alignment. I disassemble everything. Glue the 3 pieces together with the guide pins and clamp. Then comes the SANDING. The next ones should be easier since my wife just ordered me a WEN oscillating drum sander from EBay. Face plate is just pin nailed to backer. BTW, I mentioned the 2 sided carpet tape. It is my "go to" tool for temporally holding small pieces like hinges for alignment for drilling or just tacking pieces together.
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Really nice cutting. If there is not enough contrast, you can always cut another clock with either a lighter or darker background. I know someone with appreciate it.
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Very nice job!
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Spectacular cutting!!! I may have been a little easier if you had moved a little to the left and taken the tree out of the shot. LOL. Great work.
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Thanks gang for all the great and helpful comments. I enjoy the cutting more than the finishing. I work out of my garage and have to open the door when I spray. It can be cold at times. I appreciate Kevin's, Blake's and Zen Scroller's paint tips. I'll try the recommendations. I went with the plywood because of the ease of cutting and it's what I had in the shop that was left over from my wood gear clock project. I would have gone with solid wood but was concerned that the very thin cuts would have cracked or broken off. I may be making another clock. My wife's sister in Germany wants one (freight! Ouch!) She will get this one and I'll do another in a different color. Delft Blue/white? I'll post when I'm finished.
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Found this plan on Pinterest and took it to the copy shop to enlarge it and put on heavy paper. Used 3/16" BB for face and 3/4' pine for back base. I really enjoy working with the thin wood. I really have to go slow so I don't overshoot the line since it cuts so easy. Used a .03 drill and a Scroller puzzle blade and only broke 3 blades. My wife suggested the gold spray paint and pin nailed the face to the base. Learned an important lesson. Tried to touch up the holes from the nailer with the spray paint with a brush and the color is slightly different. This may have to do with the drying agents in the paint??? My wife says I need to give the clocks a rest otherwise she will get TICKED with me. Not tock. LOL!
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Just finished a quick Hummingbird Clock project. #7 blade, 3/4" pine material and 2" clockworks from Cherry Tree. Design came from the Miniature Wood Clock for Scroll Saw Book. I had to enlarge the picture by 135% so I could fit a 2" clock into the design. Anything smaller would be too hard to read. Painting was done by my wife Karol.
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That is one beautiful clock. Remember, Stay focused!
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Shellac is used in sizing paint to cover water stains on sheet rock and plaster and is made to be painted over after it dries.
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I took another look at the napkin holder and if you used 1/4" wood like oak or poplar (for paint) and cut out an 1/8" (1/16") backer of the same material using the original cutting as a template. Glue and clamp very tight and sand to match. It will be hard to discern that there are two different pieces of wood. A thought....
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My blades tend to break on tight turns or when I push too hard. Some time it happens when I'm thinking, "damn, the cutting is going slow, this blade must be getting dull, I need to change it." within seconds, TWANG, it's broke! Funny how that happens!
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Welcome to the League of Addicted Saw Dust Makers. It's a fun group.
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Really great detail cuttings! White would be a great color also. I would first shellac first to smooth down the grain and paint and then consider lacquer. The smoothness will let the napkins slide out easier. Tung oil is also good. I made a few out of 1/2 inch oak from a scroller design a while back. Backers were a pain since I had to route out the material to make it flush. Used Shellac and Lacquer for finish.
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I have been working on a wooden gear clock for over a year. I ordered the plans from Germany. www.Holtzmechanik.de. Plans were in metric and on A4 size paper so things got a little confusing with sizes. Eventually went with 1/4" rods and found tubes at True Value. Recently saw that Wood Crafters also has tubes. I have also purchased from P&S with good results. Cutting gears was not too bad but I would recommend using the scroll saw sanding strips for fine finish of gears. The mechanical works were not too bad but getting the weights right and making the fulcrum to work properly is an on going issue. Eventually replaced the fulcrum with a metal one I found on the web from Howard Miller (Grandfather Clock people) the sprocket (clutch) has broken several times because of the weight (16lbs.) Finally cut 1/8" brass sheet to size and fixed that problem. I have had this clock work for 6 hours (25 hour clock) but still fine tuning. I have to walk away and come back to it every few days. This is the Korona Clock.
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This seems to be a common problem. It happened with my Craftsman and now my EX16. Not tightening too much seems to help but eventually they all start to twist. The real issue is the design of the blade hold down. One screw is stationary and the other rotates to tighten against the blade. Something is going to happen. I'm not an engineer or designer but a better idea might be, rather than the screw turning against the blade, the screw turn against a sliding plate that clamps the blade, there by eliminating rotation against the blade. Another option would be to use a sliding plate or pin and a adjustable toggle style clamp similar to the tension clamp on the top of the EX-16 Scroll saw. There may be some other ideas out there.
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Don't be afraid. Just start with light pressure. It will works fine. It does throw off some of the ball material. Kind of like Scotch Bright. I think HF may also offers a smaller version of the ball.
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All great projects. You've been busy!
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I used to use my belt sander to clean up my cuttings but my new go to tool is a ball sander I got from Harbor Freight. ($9.99) It does a great job and I can rotate the piece to get all angles. No issue with fine cuttings, just watch the pressure you apply.
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I have used the pick and stick felt on several of my fretwork boxes. Initially, I would cut the felt to size and try to make it fit and have to lift and reapply to stretch it out or trim with a razor knife to cut off the excess. I now sacrifice some of the depth of the box by cutting a 1/8 or smaller board to size and apply felt to that first and trim to fit. I use contact cement on bottom and drop into base of box. If I have to remove it for some reason, I can use a dental pick to pull it up to rework. My source is either Michaels or Hobby Lobby
