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jollyred

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  1. jollyred
    The right height is where the router can be held firmly against the project with control of the router. tom
  2. jollyred
    I have heard of using air blowers to push finishes to push finishes into and out of small areas. Sound like it may work for gel stains. I think I would put down lots of newspaper to catch of the blown finish. I normally use an airbrush to apply thinned stain on this type of cut. Tom
  3. jollyred
    I honestly think that would look best as an intarsia pattern (or a segmentation pattern). It would also need to have some of the decorations on the gown removed or simplified. Just my thought. Tom
  4. jollyred

    Dyes

    jollyred replied to rjweb's topic in Intarsia/Segmentation

    If you dye or paint intarsia it is known as segmentation and is how I do most of mine. I have used oil base stains, acrylic paints and aniline dyes. I decided to color the pieces after doing intarsia for a couple of years and many of the pieces darkened to shades of brown. This is typical of most woods when exposed to sunlight. This can be delayed using some finishes with uv preventive properties, but they will still darken eventually. How you want to make them is entirely up to you. By painting or dyeing the wood, you do not have to select only woods that have a particular color. I generally select woods that are as white as I can find. usually aspen, poplar or soft maple.
  5. jollyred
    Looks good. when I'm doing a bunch of simple patterns like these, I will make a template out of thin material to trace the cuts. this is actually faster than pasting patterns on the stock. Also cheaper than a bunch of paper patterns and glue. Tom
  6. jollyred
    A long time ago I was told that you can cut off a finger on the scroll saw, but you would probably have to change the blade halfway through. Tom
  7. jollyred
    I cover a copy of the pattern with clear shelf liner, then glue the parts together with yellow glue. The glue will pop off the liner quite easily. The glue gives me a little time to adjust the fit of the pieces, since my shaky hands are terrible at lining up things the first time. I often make more than one of a pattern to give out as gifts, so the laminated pattern will get several uses. Tom
  8. jollyred
    8 1/2 x 11 is the default size in Inkscape; you can set the page size to 11 x 17 in "Document properties" and it will print to that size. Has a lot of other sizes, so you have to look through the list of sizes to find it.
  9. jollyred
    To me it looks like the bevels were cut with a knife and then sanded to soften the corners. I don't think just sanding with power tools was used on these. Tom
  10. jollyred
    One thought is to keep an air blower handy to blow off the dust instead of wiping it into the grain of the wood. Also, wearing plastic gloves would be easier to clean off the dust than bare hands. Sealing the light wood is a really good idea. Tom
  11. jollyred
    No snow, but cold and lots of light rain. Actually, the weather here in Southern Illinois is supposed to miserable for the rest of the year. Tom
  12. jollyred
    You could try one of the silicon baking sheets, nothing is supposed to stick to them. I use it for this, and they clean up really easily. Tom
  13. jollyred
    Cut up some cardboard to make a prototype box, then put the puzzle pieces you have already cut (say you have about 1/3 done). That should give you an idea of the volume needed. If you don't have any pieces cut yet, I would say your estimate is probably right. I know that when I dig a hole I get about twice the volume of dirt from the hole. Either way, I would make a prototype box to verify the size before making the real box. Card board boxes are quick to make, unlike wood boxes. Tom
  14. jollyred
    Why would you nail them from the back? I first apply the pattern to what will be the top layer. Then I nail them together in the waste areas. Tom
  15. jollyred
    When cutting small pieces like this, I put the pattern on a larger piece of wood that is easier to hold. I put as many pieces on the wood as will fit. I cut out the interior cuts before I cut the piece from the larger one. This way you have wood to hold onto without having to hold down small pieces. If for some reason I can't do this, I use a small piece holding jig to hold the piece, which helps a lot. Steve Good shows one on his web site which he calls a compound cutting jig. It is easy to make and works really good. Tom
  16. jollyred
    That is a great idea. Thanks for the video. One of the problems with the DW788 type 2 was the lack of grease on the bearings. Has anyone checked this saw to see if the bearings are well greased? Tom
  17. jollyred
    In the plumbing section of home improvement centers, you can find rubber connectors of many sizes. They can be a bit pricey but they will do the job if you can find the right size. I have made connectors from pvc pipe formed with heat to fit over the tool fitting, and a pvc adapter to fit the pipes. This shows how the heat process works. Tom
  18. jollyred
    Made mine from a piece of tempered hardboard, about 8" x 11". Put some thin foam on the back to prevent slipping, and cut holes for magnets the same thickness as the foam. Cut a slot up the middle of it with a #3 or #5 blade. Put about 2 coats of polyurethane on it to make it even tougher. Once the finish dried, I waxed it up to make it really slippery. To put it on I just slip it over the blade till the blade is at the end of the slot. I have a hole at one end to hang on the scroll saw stand so it is handy for doing small parts. It is big enough that I don't need to worry about going off of it for most of my cuts. Tom
  19. jollyred
    Navy SeaBees, 1969-1972 Tom
  20. jollyred
    You could try using a non-slip pad under the foot pedal. Tom
  21. jollyred
    Personally, I like the light stain better. Both are very good looking. Tom
  22. jollyred
    I will seal the edges of plywood with Elmet's Glue All. Other white or yellow pva glues will also work, but the Elmer's is cheaper. Just apply a thin coat to all exposed edges using a brush, or your finger on straight edges. I usually don't even sand the sealer after it dries. Try it on a scrap piece of plywood to see if you like the results. Tom
  23. jollyred
    It sounds like the imported drawing is larger than the page in Inkscape and is hiding the page. You can make the page in Inkscape larger with the Document properties under the file drop down or reduce the size of the imported drawing. Reduce the size using the sizing arrows when you select the imported drawing. I usually center the drawing on the page by eye using the select tool and dragging the drawing into position. Tom
  24. jollyred
    When I had cataract surgery, I went from near sighted to far sighted. Now I just need reading glasses instead of bifocals. Took a little bit to get used to but has not been a real problem, except for leaving my glasses at the last place I was at instead of where I am currently. Tom
  25. jollyred
    Most of the time when I get it stored like that, it will sit there for a long time. Maybe forever. Tom
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