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jollyred

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Everything posted by jollyred

  1. jollyred
    Love the little hats on them. Tom
  2. jollyred
    He will have to come up with a way to do internal cuts, which calls for loosening the blade, drilling a hole in the right location, then inserting the blade and tensioning it. If he can do that, it might come to be a standard item on all scroll saw. Right now, all it is good for is drawing the pattern on the wood. Tom
  3. jollyred
    Hi, my name is Tom and I am a wood hoarder. I have piles of wood all over my shop, and the only way I know to reduce the piles is to take it out and burn it. I will never use all the little scraps and pieces of scroll size wood. Keeping them is like an addiction. Now that I've said that, I'll go down to the shop and get rid of all the scraps.... NOT. Tom
  4. jollyred
    Have cut some, not a lot. It doesn't seem to cut much different than wood, just no grain to worry about. Seems to me I had a lot of fuzzies on the bottom, but it sanded off pretty easy. May burn off easily, but I haven't tried that. Tom
  5. jollyred
    The first set of drill bits I got from HF I tried to drill into some wood, and the bits untwisted! Threw them away. Got another set some years later and they still work fine. With HF everything is a gamble, but most work relatively well. Tom
  6. jollyred
    On most saws the table can be taken off, which gives a lot more working room. Tom
  7. jollyred
    Look for edge banding. It is a thin wood that is used to cover the edges of plywood so the layers don't show. It even comes with an iron on adhesive, so you don't need to clamp it in place for glue to dry. The roll they come in is about 3" in diameter, so it should do what you want. It is usually only available in a limited number of species (I think it may only come in birch). But a little dye can do wonders. Tom
  8. jollyred
    Here is a rattlesnake I made some years ago for my wife. She liked it so it must be good. IIRC the pattern was from the Winfield Collection. I don't know if matches any known species of snake, but I wasn't worried about that. Tom
  9. jollyred
    Usually the problem is that the plywood doesn't expand or contract with changes in the relative humidity, and the wood does. This causes the warping. One way to prevent this is to not glue the entire surfaces together. Just fasten at one point and the different expansions won't matter. Another way is to use a flexible adhesive, which will give some give to the connection. Another way is to ensure the relative humidity from the shop to the final resting place doesn't change. Nice looking plaque, by the way. Tom
  10. jollyred
    Look up any saw mills in your area. They may cut a few slabs for you, or even have some on hand.
  11. jollyred
    Nice job Les. I went a different route on covering my table. I used tempered hardboard, and flat head machine screws to hold it on. I put a couple of coats of thinned polyurethane on it, which soaked into the hardboard and toughened the top even more. Then I waxed the top, and re-wax occasionally. It works real well, one waxing will last for a long time. I did this on my last two scroll saws. The wood will slide over the top like it had been greased, and it cannot harm the back. The material is dark, so it doesn't help with seeing under the wood, but I don't have a problem with that anyway. Tom
  12. jollyred
    It might bend the nail in the nose of the nailer and cause it to jam. They are pretty easy to unjam, so let us know how it works. Tom
  13. jollyred
    I like the little pegs in the puzzles. That should make it a lot less frustrating for little hands to work the puzzle. Don't worry too much about the lettering, they are one of the hardest things to get right. I don't think I have ever done a perfect letter, and I have been using a scroll saw, occasionally, for over 20 years. Tom
  14. jollyred
    Everyone keeps saying that the smallest pin is 1/2", but I regularly use 3/8" pins in my pin nailer. It is an Hitachi, so maybe other brands can't use this size. I noticed several other brands that state the smallest they use is 1/2". If the project is small, I will just tape it, rather than dragging out the pin nailer, but for larger projects I like to pin in the middle to prevent sawdust getting in between the layers, which cause more fuzzies on the back of the upper layer. Tom
  15. jollyred
    Your work looks great. Welcome to the Village, we love questions and pictures. Tom
  16. jollyred
    Have been working on Christmas presents, and thought I would show a few here. The following are tissue boxes, in ash and cherry. Finished with spray shellac. Mostly my own design (don't remember where I got the pattern, memory ain't too good anymore). These go to family members. This is an Alex Fox pattern, one in ash, the other two in cherry. Finished with spray shellac. These go to in-laws. This pattern is from Fine Scrollsaw, sized to use 3/8" ash. Finish is spray shellac. These go to family. The next two are Steve Good patterns, using mdf and spray paint. The gold cross goes to my Granddaughter and her husband. the other goes to my mother-in-law.
  17. jollyred
    I would bet that if you go to Steve Good's site, the Scrollsaw Workshop, and look over his pattern library, you would find a project that would be perfect for her. And his patterns are free! Tom
  18. jollyred
    Why not look up the printer on the manufacturer's site and see what cartridges it will accept? Tom
  19. jollyred
    Ray, what you are wanting to do is called "scaling" the drawing. I will send you a pm on one way to do it, but it is too long to put into a post. Tom
  20. jollyred
    I'll give it a try. 1. Use the selection arrow to select the line you wish to change. After selecting, check that it is a path by looking at the sentence near the bottom of the drawing, it should say "Path" and have some other information about the line. If it is not a path, go to the top of the drawing and select "path", then "change to path". 2. Once you are sure it is a path, and with the line still selected, place the selection arrow over one of the colors along the bottom of the drawing. Select whichever you want, in this case the red. Then right click on the mouse. This will bring up a dialog box with some selections of things to do. 3. Place the selection arrow over the command "set stroke" and right click. The line will change color to the one you selected. If you have any problem with this, contact me and I will try to help. Tom
  21. jollyred
    That is nice. One of these days I am going to learn to use an air brush and make beautiful scenes such as that. Tom
  22. jollyred
    Check out DaFont for fonts. It has hundreds of fonts in all styles. If you can't find something there, they also refer to a couple of other sites. From your requirements, it would be difficult to know what you need. Tom
  23. jollyred
    I like to use the little drill chuck on the Dremel. It will hold any size of drill bit from 1/8" on down to the very smallest. Tom
  24. jollyred
    Saw that the other day. Lots of good advise. Tom
  25. jollyred
    You might try an anti vibration glove when using the Dremel. Nice cutting, by the way. Tom
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