jollyred
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Everything posted by jollyred
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Great idea, Are those screws holding the top in place? I made one for my second scroll saw from a piece of 1/4" plywood and used a couple of machine screws to hold it in place. I drilled and tapped the top to hold the screws. Could have just used bolts and nuts. Worked pretty good, but it didn't have a replaceable insert.
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I read somewhere that the size can be checked using the tube from a toilet paper roll. If it fits in the tube it is a choking hazard.
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Actually, the inside of the nine disappeared into the sawdust on the floor while I was sanding. Guess I was a little too aggressive. I thought of redoing it, and I still might. Time will tell.
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This is a 1923 BMW motorcycle cutout I made for the other father-in-law, since he likes to restore old BMW motorcycles. I made the pattern from a picture using Inkscape. The wood is 1/2" cherry, unfinished. The finish will be floor finish (as is done by Steve Good). Not a great photo, but I am still working on getting a setup to take pictures of my projects.
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There is a panel on the back, although it does not have cutouts. Each little square hole was sawn by me. The hardest part of the design for me was getting the holes properly spaced. Had to learn more about Inkscape's precision spacing abilities to do it. But it wasn't hard once I found out the tools to use.
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After seeing all the cool notebook covers others have shown on here, I had to make my own. This one I made for my wife, from 1/8" baltic birch for the front and back, It is 6 1/2" x 8 1/2" and is unfinished. I glued construction paper to the inside of the cover to get the color in the cutouts. The dragon pattern is from clipart I found on the internet.
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Since I made my son a man cave wrench for his shop,it was only right to make one for his wife's potting shed. The pattern is in the library. I made this from cedar, since it will be out in the weather some, with a 1/8" plywood backing, painted red. I did discover that cutting cedar requires careful consideration of any short grain in the pattern. The interior part of the "d" broke off, and I had to glue it in seperately. If I use cedar again, I will make the short grain areas wider.
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Made this one for my son, who is an auto mechanic. I made it from western cedar.
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Very nice. I started the man cave wrench for my son, but haven't finished it. Got lazy.
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Looking good. Made one for my wife for Valentine's day (a solid one). She loved it.
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Glue it to a sheet of mdf and call it a jigsaw puzzle. Would need to color it and seal the color before gluing it to the backing.
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I like the idea, but have a question on the binder rings. The only ones I could find in that style cannot be opened once they are closed, so the notebook cannot be refilled. Can the ones you use be opened again, and where did you find them?
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Looks like it was done with a scroll saw to me
jollyred replied to amazingkevin's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Looks like he spent a lot of time sanding out the saw marks. Interesting work. -
Go down to the local box store and get a couple of stains for wood. Get some of the wood you will be using for your intarsia (cedar fence boards are a good choice) and cut them up. Sand to the extent you will be doing on your projects, then try the different stains on the pieces. Use the recommended thinner to try the stains at different strengths. Try putting on one stain, then blotting on a different color stain. In other words, experiment to find out what you can do with the stains. Then get some dyes (Rit fabric dyes are a good starting point) and do the same thing. You will develop a "feel" for the results which will be a lot more useful than written advice. You will also want to put a top coat on the pieces to see how that affects them.
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A plywood backer glued to wood panel is unbalanced, It will warp with humidity changes, since the wood wants to move and the plywood is constrained from moving by its alternating grain directions. To keep this from warping, there needs to be some way for the wood to expand and contract without resistance from the plywood, One way would be to apply the glue just to the middle of the wood, so the edges can expand without resistance. Another way is to use a backer of wood instead of plywood, just be sure the grain is running in the same direction. The third way is to not worry about the small amount of warping you are experiencing, which I think is what most woodworkers do. As long as the wood is relatively dry, the amount of warping will be small. There is no way to eliminate wood movement without completely controlling the relative humidity of the environment the wood is in. Even alternating the growth rings in a glue up only averages out the warping, it does not eliminate it.
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My granddaughter is batty over Batman, so when I saw a photo of a Batman Cave sign, I knew I had to make one for her. This is made from 1/4" birch plywood, is about 7" long, and painted with acrylic spray paint.
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I did something similar to this for painting some small pieces I was working on. Didn't think of using it for sanding. Thanks for the suggestion, I will have to try this.
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On pieces small enough to get my fingers into the sanding drums, I will use a knife to cut a champfer on the piece, then use files and hand sand to a smooth surface. Don't think that you need to use power sanding for all of it. Even so, I usually ruin my manicure when using the power sanding, especially when using the mop sander.
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Pneumatic drum sanders recommendation?
jollyred replied to BeerBrewer's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I use the flex sander from Seyco for some of the sanding of my intarsias. I mounted it on a cheap 1725 rpm electric motor, which I also use for my flap and mop sanders, using a jacob's chuck to hold them. Small drum sanders can also be used on the motor. I mounted the motor to a board that I can clamp to a table or work bench during use. -
Did you try "grouping" the parts to make them move as one object? I'm just starting on Inkscape also, and go to the tutorials quite a bit also.
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I will copy the text and a link into a word processing program. Then I will save it as a document to a folder which contains other information on the same topic. I usually put a reference to the original post in the document in case I want to see if more replies have been made to it. The hard part is remembering where the copy is stored, which is why I use a folder for each topic. Several related posts can be put into the same document. You can also make notes in the document.
