jollyred

if you have Gimp, it will open pdf and export as png, jpg and other file formats.

I got a used one for $175, and it is a model 1. It has been working well for me, but I don't use it a lot. The only way to tell is to test it with a blade and some wood. Give it a good run, using different speeds, and listen for odd noises and too much vibration. The model number is on the plate on the motor. The older models were made in Canada and the model 2 were made in China. The claim is the ones made in Canada probably had better quality control.

Illinois has come up with the brilliant idea that if you make a certain amount of money through the year, they will charge you tax on purchasing online. It doesn't matter how much you actually spend, if you make x dollars, send us y dollars for internet tax. Even if you owe no other taxes, this has to be paid.

I keep a composition notebook at my workbench, and when I am "designing" a project, I will note dimensions in it. That way I can make it again if I need to. I also have a cheap digital camera I keep down there, and when I remember to I will take a picture of a project.

No offense taken, just curious how it got that way.

Was there in 1970. Question - why is the Navy seal upside down and backwards? You got something against the Navy?

Love the detail, and the inlay looks perfect. They are going to love it.

Thanks for the pattern. I am going to have to try this.

Painted and mounted.

It's made for applying a protective surface to clean linoleum floors. You get it in the cleaning aisle at the grocery or box store.

Might try Steve Good's method, dipping in floor finish. This can be obtained in odorless, as well as fruit odors. It gives a matte finish, but can be waxed for a shinier finish.

The piece with the two holes looks like red oak to me also. The dark strips look like walnut.

Bend a piece of wire into an "S" shape. One leg of the S into the hole in the pegboard, the other end into the saw tooth hanger. 18 gage steel wire should hold most items,if not too heavy. If really heavy, might try 12 gage wire.

Why not ask Steve Good? He is very helpful.

A while back I showed another 1923 BMW I had cut out for the other father-in-law, but it didn't come out very well. So I redesigned it and finally got around to cutting it out. I think this one came out all right. It is cut from 1/4" cherry with a spray on lacquer finish. The BMW logo was printed out, then pasted to 1/8" plywood, and covered with shipping tape. Then it was cut out and glued on.

Cut out the doorway, trace it onto another piece of stock. Cut the door slightly large and sand to fit.

Welcome to the forum. One thing you might try if using pin end blades is to grind off some of the pin to make it fit the hole better. Don't take off too much or it won't stay in the holder. Using plain end blades is a lot easier, and you have a wider selection of blades. If all else fails, you could use a mirror to see the back of the wood when threading.

I live on the line for the eclipse, in fact the longest time for totality is just a few miles from where I live. We will get an extra half second of total eclipse! I have already gotten some of the special glasses to view it with. Did you know that in 2024 another total eclipse will cross the U.S.? Its path of totality will cross the current path just a few miles from here, also.

The percentage to use is the desired size divided by the existing size times 100, For this example, it would be 2 3/4 divided by 1 3/8 which gives 50%.

Have made a few of those, and they can be habit forming. Those look real good.

Had lots of adventures like this, once I epoxied the legs on a chair backwards. Could not get them off. Just wondering if you could take the backer and turn it over to use the one you have already cut instead of cutting one backwards?

Really nice. I need to make my wife one of those, but I think I will straighten out the sides on a disk sander. My "straight" lines aren't.

That is a good cutting. I wonder if you could put a sheet of translucent plastic behind it to make the night light? Then a box type frame to hold everything together. A small hole in the plastic behind the glass ball will let it glow.

I for one don't know what a scroll saw log looks like. If you could post pictures of what these are, I think the people here can help you better.

I recently needed some thin boards wider than the ones I have. I looked at the prices on the wider boards, and decided I would try to save the cost of having the supplier edge glue them for me. Many years ago I found out how to do this. I could not find the jig I used then so I made a new and improved one. It will go up to 8" wide, which is as wide as I think I will be needing. It consists of a fixed fence on one side of a base, with an adjustable fence on the other side. The boards are placed between the fences, with the fences adjusted to raise the centers of the boards above the surface of the base. When the centers are forced down against the base, they come together with enough force to make a good glue joint. Then a caul is clamped along the center joint to keep it flush with the surface. After the glue sets, the pressure is released from the fences and then the caul is removed. I wax the base and the caul to prevent the glue from sticking to them. Of course the quality of the joint depends on getting the edges to be glued straight and square. I used a hand plane to do this. The first photo shows the jig with the narrow boards ready to have glue applied. I usually just run a bead of glue down the center gap, then work it into the gap with a piece of paper. Next to the clamp are the shims I use to hold the centers of the boards up while I am adjusting the fence. The second photo shows the pieces clamped up, waiting for the glue to cure. The third photo shows the glued up board. The glue squeeze out needs to be removed, which I do with a cabinet scraper followed by sanding. This is the most tedious part of the whole operation.