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jollyred

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Everything posted by jollyred

  1. Not doing it now, but the wording in my op was copied from the wording. Might just be a "gremlin". Tom
  2. [[Template trophies/front/global/postbit is throwing an error. This theme may be out of date. Run the support tool in the AdminCP to restore the default theme.]] For some reason this is showing up in the "posted by" part of a reply to a post. What is going on? Tom
  3. That is nice. One of these days I am going to learn to use an air brush and make beautiful scenes such as that. Tom
  4. Check out DaFont for fonts. It has hundreds of fonts in all styles. If you can't find something there, they also refer to a couple of other sites. From your requirements, it would be difficult to know what you need. Tom
  5. I like to use the little drill chuck on the Dremel. It will hold any size of drill bit from 1/8" on down to the very smallest. Tom
  6. Barb, we will need the length of the deck of cards to make the pattern the right size. Tom
  7. Saw that the other day. Lots of good advise. Tom
  8. You might try an anti vibration glove when using the Dremel. Nice cutting, by the way. Tom
  9. I use the test tube holders, in which I put the slip of paper sent with the blades to show which blade is in there. I made a holder to attach to the scroll saw stand that holds the tube for the blades I am currently using. The rest of the tubes go in a compartmented box that I keep in the bottom of the stand. That way I don't have to remember which blade is in the saw. With my memory, that is important. Tom
  10. I may not use many of them (mainly because of others not knowing their meanings) but I know the meaning of almost all of them (except Skewwiff, what is that?). Does that count? Tom
  11. I generally use Aileen's clear tacky glue. Just put small drops in the area I want the glue, then spread it around with my finger. I do try to keep it away from the edges of the frets, and keep the glue thin. Once the overlay is in position, I will use a pin nailer to secure it from the back, if the wood is thick enough to keep the nails from going all the way through. Otherwise, I don't bother with the pin nails. The nails are just in case the glue should fail, so I only use a few around the edges. I have some 3/8" pin nails, so most of my projects are 1/2" finished thickness. Pin nails are also good for reinforcing butt and miter joints in thin material. Tom
  12. Actually I stained spots on one and painted the others. I did put a clear coat over all of them, which was a polyurethane. However, I have used the oil based varnish on a lot of other projects, and it is a one step process (although I would recommend more than one coat for durability). It can be done in gloss or satin, but with kids, it probably won't stay glossy for long. Tom
  13. An oil based varnish would provide much the same look as tung oil. It is the oil in the finish that darkens the wood. Then you would not need to use all the different layers of finish. As with all finishes, try it on some scrap wood before using on your project. This is one example of an oil based varnish: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-207008-Marine-Varnish-1-Quart/dp/B000C011CE/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=oil+based+varnish+for+wood&qid=1604941573&sr=8-5 Like the horse. I have made several for my grandkids, and they are always well received. Tom
  14. Beautiful work. Glad you decided to stay. Tom
  15. Like that one. You did a nice job cutting it. Tom
  16. Is that at all Walmarts or just in Iowa? Tom s
  17. I checked also, and you are younger than me. And I know that people are not old till they are at least 10 years older than me.
  18. Some paneling has a MDF core or backing, this may be what he is using, or at least similar. Tom
  19. You can also use a hinge bit (formerly known as a Vix bit) to set the holes. These self center on the hinge screw hole, and the depth can be controlled. If you plan on making a number of these, the hinge bit is the way to go. Just be sure the bit is sized to fit your screw. https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-Self-Centering-Hinge-Bit-A99SCHB1/312284028?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-25_7_POWER_TOOL_ACCESSORIES-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-PowerToolAccessories&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-25_7_POWER_TOOL_ACCESSORIES-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-PowerToolAccessories-71700000071858300-58700006314327728-92700057006649503&msclkid=4f625f0da6f61376d3a1009b822b39b7&gclid=4f625f0da6f61376d3a1009b822b39b7&gclsrc=3p.ds Otherwise, using a gimlet or awl to mark the center of the hinge hole then drilling the hole is a good way to do it. Tom
  20. If you still have the original instructions, they usually have a parts diagram, which may show where that part goes. If you don't have the manual, they can usually be found online. Tom
  21. Go to your scrap pile and get another board. Since you cut it before, it should cut all right again. If you still have the problem, it's the saw or blade. If it cuts all right, it's the wood. Tom
  22. I think I would fill first. It would be kind of hard to get the epoxy flush with the surface if filled after the cutting. At least I think so, but I don't like sanding any more than necessary. By the way, that's a nice pattern, and we will need pictures when it is finished. That's the price you pay for our valuable free advice. Tom
  23. Decided to make a Halloween lamp this year, and came up with the lamp below. Saw where Steve Good had used a flame effect led bulb in a project and liked the idea a lot, so I got one for this project. The flickering light from this bulb really makes the lamp interesting. The image of the cat is downloaded from the internet. Cut from 1/4" BB, with a frosted mylar sheet for the background. Spray painted black. About 6" wide and 8" high and 3" deep. I don't know why the light from the bulb is yellow, in real life it is all pumpkin orange, like the color in the bats. Guess using a phone to take pictures is iffy. Tom
  24. You may not be jealous, but I am. Tom
  25. Welcome to the Village. Good to have you here. You will find a lot of information and (mostly) good advise here. Tom
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