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jollyred

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Everything posted by jollyred

  1. jollyred
    The right height is where the router can be held firmly against the project with control of the router. tom
  2. jollyred
    I have heard of using air blowers to push finishes to push finishes into and out of small areas. Sound like it may work for gel stains. I think I would put down lots of newspaper to catch of the blown finish. I normally use an airbrush to apply thinned stain on this type of cut. Tom
  3. jollyred
    Looks good. when I'm doing a bunch of simple patterns like these, I will make a template out of thin material to trace the cuts. this is actually faster than pasting patterns on the stock. Also cheaper than a bunch of paper patterns and glue. Tom
  4. jollyred
    A long time ago I was told that you can cut off a finger on the scroll saw, but you would probably have to change the blade halfway through. Tom
  5. jollyred
    To me it looks like the bevels were cut with a knife and then sanded to soften the corners. I don't think just sanding with power tools was used on these. Tom
  6. jollyred
    That is a great idea. Thanks for the video. One of the problems with the DW788 type 2 was the lack of grease on the bearings. Has anyone checked this saw to see if the bearings are well greased? Tom
  7. jollyred
    Made mine from a piece of tempered hardboard, about 8" x 11". Put some thin foam on the back to prevent slipping, and cut holes for magnets the same thickness as the foam. Cut a slot up the middle of it with a #3 or #5 blade. Put about 2 coats of polyurethane on it to make it even tougher. Once the finish dried, I waxed it up to make it really slippery. To put it on I just slip it over the blade till the blade is at the end of the slot. I have a hole at one end to hang on the scroll saw stand so it is handy for doing small parts. It is big enough that I don't need to worry about going off of it for most of my cuts. Tom
  8. jollyred
    You could try using a non-slip pad under the foot pedal. Tom
  9. jollyred
    Personally, I like the light stain better. Both are very good looking. Tom
  10. jollyred
    I will seal the edges of plywood with Elmet's Glue All. Other white or yellow pva glues will also work, but the Elmer's is cheaper. Just apply a thin coat to all exposed edges using a brush, or your finger on straight edges. I usually don't even sand the sealer after it dries. Try it on a scrap piece of plywood to see if you like the results. Tom
  11. jollyred
    It sounds like the imported drawing is larger than the page in Inkscape and is hiding the page. You can make the page in Inkscape larger with the Document properties under the file drop down or reduce the size of the imported drawing. Reduce the size using the sizing arrows when you select the imported drawing. I usually center the drawing on the page by eye using the select tool and dragging the drawing into position. Tom
  12. jollyred
    When I had cataract surgery, I went from near sighted to far sighted. Now I just need reading glasses instead of bifocals. Took a little bit to get used to but has not been a real problem, except for leaving my glasses at the last place I was at instead of where I am currently. Tom
  13. jollyred
    Most of the time when I get it stored like that, it will sit there for a long time. Maybe forever. Tom
  14. jollyred
    I have one project I haven't finished the top part of, but the bottom part of has sat in my shop for about 15 years now. I keep telling my wife she doesn't have to remind me every six months to get it finished. That woman is awful impatient! Of course it will have to wait till I finish the others I have laying about the shop in various stages of completion. Most of which I left unfinished because I got interested in other projects. Tom
  15. jollyred
    I use a 24" x 36" piece of cardboard laid on my table saw. I have used this same sheet for a few years now. It now has a thick layer of dried spray glue that keeps the pattern from getting blown about as I spray. Tom
  16. jollyred
    Why would you buy this clone saw if your DW 788 is still working? Could buy a lot of patterns and wood for the price. Tom
  17. jollyred
    Looking over the manual for the saw, it says to raise the upper arm, you need to reach to the back of the saw to pull a pin to release the arm. Once raised the pin needs to be pulled again to lower the arm. That is a pretty good distance on a 22" saw, and on a typical portrait style project would get pretty tedious. That alone would put me off this particular saw. Maybe someone who has actually used the saw could comment on this. Or maybe the pin could be removed and the arm raised and lowered like the DW788. Tom
  18. jollyred
    One way to raise the figures would be to cut them out at 90 degrees, then use a shim on the backs. This will leave a kerf around the figure, but this could be filled with sawdust, or the figure dyed a darker color so the kerf is less noticeable. Try this on a scrap piece to see if the affect is to your liking. Using a small blade with a minimal kerf would be helpful. One way to make this a bragging piece would be to do some carving on the figures. Another way would be to add color to it. White for the canvas on the wagons and brown lines for the harness on the mules, etc. Tom
  19. jollyred
    I have made a lot of adapters for hose connections from pvc water pipe. Find a diameter of pipe that is slightly smaller inside than the outside of the connector on the tool. Heat the end of the pvc pipe till it is flexible, then jam it on the connector. Let it cool and it will fit perfectly. You can do the same on the other end of the pvc for the connection to the hose, using one of the fittings that came with it. For connecting the vacuum to the saw, I used a power strip connected to a foot switch. I plug the vac and the saw into the strip, and when I step on the switch, both draw power from the strip. Both will start and stop at the same time. Tom
  20. jollyred
    I use the bottle that Titebond comes in. Since the lid is hard to pop open, I use an open end wrench that just fits it to pry it open. When done gluing, I push the top closed and try to leave a little glue at the opening. This will harden and seal the bottle more airtight than just the lid. When it is time to use the bottle again, I use the point of a knife or ice pick to pop off the dried glue. It will not stick to the top and pops off easily. Tom
  21. jollyred
    My favorite weights are bricks I wrapped with duck tape. Cheap and easy to make, plus they work good. Tom
  22. jollyred
    The problem with planing end grain on a cutting board where the grain is vertical is that the grain is unsupported at the end of the cut. This will cause the grain to be torn out at of the end of the cut. By routing the edges prior to planeing, the last of the grain has already been cut below the line of cut, so it cannot be torn out. This is the same as when using a hand plane to chamfer the corners of a board, you should plane the corners parallel to the grain first, which will prevent the tear out when the ends are planed. Tom
  23. jollyred
    It is a rectangle. Use a pencil and ruler to make the copy the right dimensions for the perimeter by drawing a new rectangle around it 1/8" off set from the copy lines.. The internal pattern will be slightly smaller, but no one will ever know. No need to make it complicated. If you want complicated, since the pattern is supposed to be 5" wide and measures 5 1/4", use a reduction percentage in "transform" of: 5/5.25 x 100 = 95.24% Tom
  24. jollyred
    I did some bookmarks using 1/32" plywood and held them together by wrapping them with blue painter's tape. Worked real well. I think I did about 8 at a time using a #2 blade. Tom
  25. jollyred
    I've done that something similar with my larger patterns, Instead of cutting and pasting the pages together, I use Inkscape to make a single drawing. Then I can make a pdf of the pattern and send it to a local print shop. I can go down there later and pick them up already to go. As you say, it is fairly inexpensive and quite convenient. Tom
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