UncleApple

When you say "stopped", it stopped running fast or stopped entirely? If stopped entirely, it may be the DW788 fuse or the foot switch. Have you tried plugging the saw directly into the outlet?

Thank you so much for sharing! Compound cuts blew me away when I started my 1st chess set, but this is crazy cool. I'll definitely be looking for the book!

Seeking wisdom! I've recently started trying some inlay work and have found that filling the drill-holes are a challenge to say the least. I've tried making a sawdust paste with wood glue and even tried using super glue on top of the sawdust (which seems to work best). The issue I'm facing is that if I laminate 2 boards together to do the inlay work, my drill holes are harder to fill. If I cut each piece separately, then the drill holes are removed from the equation, but the required precision of the cuts are increased ten-fold. The smallest drill bit I can find around here is 1/16th. Is there a smaller bit size I should be using? For those who do inlay work, is it better to work on each piece separately or laminated together? Thanks in advance! Attached is pic of my first inlay placed on a band saw clock I made a few weeks ago. I cut the maple inlay pieces out first, and then cut the red cedar out.

Nicely done! I recently bought a Grizzly bandsaw and started making boxes myself. The Scroll Saw is still my favorite though...

Can you share the website? I've never ordered from "Mike's" before...

Thanks Dave. I typically order from Ocooch Hardwoods when I want certain pieces. Heritage seemed higher priced and I don't like to wait on wood when I need it

I haven't been on this forum much lately as my day job picked up speed and my nights are either spent in the shop or in the chair. One of my first posts to this site was in regards to my new DW788 and the blade tension. After a couple months of thinking through the advice given by you guys, I finally decided to take my saw apart and adjust the tensioning-rod. Two turns later and I finally have tension that gives me the familiar high c-note sound I was used to on my old saw. My nerves about taking apart my brand new saw is what kept me from doing so earlier, but I am sure glad I did. The cutting difference was immediately obvious, especially on thicker stock (3/4 inch). Now if I can just keep my blades from slipping out! A few weeks back I mentioned my mess of an attempt at stack cutting the scroll saw equivalent of a band saw box. I had stacked a 1-1/2 inch thick set of Curly Maple and Padauk. Cutting was SLOW (probably a little bit to do with the tension mentioned above), burning was frequent, blades were dulling, and the Padauk bled badly into the Curly Maple. I finally un-stacked everything and continued cutting each piece seperately. The short-version...do a band saw box on a band saw! Padauk burns easily and stains other woods even during the sanding process...unless you slowly and lightly hand-sand. Another post awhile back was on the chess set I started. All pieces are now cut & sanded and the board/box combo is in progress. I received great advice on this topic and wanted to thank everyone for their comments. While I made a few mistakes early on, like not having the table leveled to begin with, I learned...and the pieces turned out pretty good considering it was my first one. It won't be my last

I follow Steve Good on YouTube and he recently posted a review & support video of Heritage Wood Specialties. Has anyone ordered their "Scroll Saw Pak"? It seems reasonably priced to just have some extra wood and I'm always looking for that! So far, my experience has been less than stellar, especially considering the "nod of approval" from Mr. Good. I placed my order & received an immediate notification from PayPal, but never received ANYTHING from the company. I emailed them & nothing...then I called & left a message. Within 15 minutes of that call, I received an email stating that they had received my order, but that it would ship out for another week at the earliest due to lack of stock. They then informed me that the website says to allow for 2-3 weeks for shipping anyway. Their "premium" woods are a little more pricey but probably ship quicker... Anyway, enough rambling. I'll let you know when I get the goods and look forward to your remarks

May I see a photo of the finished work? Semper Fi

Just a tip you may already be aware of... Place your glue of choice on the top & use your shop-vac underneath the piece to pull the glue down & through the crack and then clamp.

very nice!

Welcome to the Village! This is a great place to share experiences and learn from others.

Welcome to the village!

Welcome! Thanks for your service!

Welcome to the village...this is a great place for learning & sharing

very nice!

Thanks everyone...great advice as always. I decided to remove the Curly Maple from the stack of Padauk. This reduced my stack-thickness to 1-inch. Then I put in a new blade and made sure it was lined up properly. I don't own any Polar blades, yet, so I replaced with a new #9 FDSR. Then I slowed my saw speed down even further. The steps above helped significantly. No more burning & the cutting, despite the slower saw speed, is going much faster...plus I don't have to worry about bleeding into the Curly Maple. Hope that by taking these steps I can finish this project without making a complete mess of things. Thanks everyone! P.S. - I researched and found that the Janka value of Padauk is considerably higher than Curly Maple...so I believe that in the future I'll steer clear of thicker Padauk stock.

Welcome to the village! Great group of folks here to provide assistance when needed and to share in the enjoyment of your work.

I believe I made an error in judgement. I recently finished cutting a chess set out of 1-1/2 inch stock, so I made the decision to stack 3 half-inch boards in order to cut a version of a band saw box. This is my first error...The cuts are taking forever and I've burnt the wood many times over. I slowed my speed down to a snail on death row, and this has helped some, but I'd like to finish the project this year. I'm using a #9 FDSR blade...thinking this would help the process along. My second error is that I stacked 2 planks of padauk on top of a piece of curly maple. The orange of the padauk is severely bleeding into the curly maple. I'm starting to think that I may end up with a real mess. I'd love to take everything apart, but I don't think that this is an option that will work for what I need. My other struggles include the fact that I think the wood stack has a slight bow in it. Depending on where I press down on the wood, the feed rate changes. I'm also still learning the DW788. I believe that my blade is tilted to the rear which allows for the blade to cut at the bottom of the stack differently than at the top. Lastly, I also think that I end up experiencing times where the blade twists. I know everyone says to change blades often, but I can't change midway through a cut, given what I need the wood for...no room to make a relief unless I plan on filling a bunch of holes later on. Help?

Glad you're back in business! Sorry about all of your troubles!

Welcome to the Village!

Welcome to the group!

Very nice! Would you mind providing some information on the piece? Wood used...what the backing is...thickness, etc? Thanks!

Hmm...dayglo blades, I like the sound of that. I always lose the blade in black lines, so I try to print the patterns in grey...not working either. I tried red a couple nights ago, that seemed to help.

Thank you!