BadBob
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Everything posted by BadBob
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Do you recommend a particular brush?
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The only way you can know for sure is to test it. Anything else is a guess.
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This is not a quote because I can't remember exactly what he said. The Titebond rep said it is OK to use if it doesn't get thick, separate, lumpy, etc. Essentially, it is OK to use if the glue doesn't change. He was a chemist and Technical Service Manager at Titebond. My personal experience bears this out. My glue doesn't go through extreme temperature changes. He also discussed: To test, glue two pieces of wood together, let the glue cure overnight, and break the joint. If the wood breaks instead of the glue, it is OK to use it. They tested glue that was 22 years old, and it worked. The expiration date is used to please lawyers. It means that Titebond will support the glue until the expiration date, no matter how it is stored.
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Aleene's has several glues that cure clear. If I want clear, I use ELMERS Glue-All Multi-Purpose Glue. It's cheap and I like the nozzle on the bottle. I mostly use Titebond II because I have a lot of it. Once, I had my wife pick up some for me, not knowing the store had gallon jugs.
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From the Grobet website. I'm going to have to try these. I cut a lot of 1.5-inch wood. Olsen sells blades for cutting thick wood. I was disappointed in this blade's performance. It was quite grabby and did not cut as well as my bandsaw.
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This seems to be the best way. In one or two of the photos, I usually use a ruler for my toys.
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Those are some beautiful birdhouses. Someday, I want to try making these. I have made some ornament hangers out of plywood. They are ugly. Since I started this discussion, I have found the wire hangers and several ideas on how to make them.
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You might be able to insert a background with software. Shoot the video on a green screen and insert the background of your choice, either from public domain photos or something you make yourself. I have a small collection of Christmas tree photos I collected from public domain images, plus some I made for myself. I have changed the background in lots of pictures but never for video. I have a Canon T7i. I shoot product photos from a tripod using a timer and an aperture set to F22 to achieve the maximum depth of field.
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Is this what you are looking for? That last skeleton pattern was a bit odd, with no feet. However, I have read about tall people have their feet cut off so they would fit in the coffin.
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Low voltage or an extension cord with wires that are not large enough. I run most of my tools on an extension cord with 12-gauge wires. I'm thinking of replacing it with a 10-gauge wire. I typically run my Shopsmith, belt sander, scroll saws, 12-inch miter saw, Routers, and several other handheld tools on it. It is plugged into a 20-amp circuit.
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For fretwork, I glue the pattern directly to the wood. When I am done cutting, I remove the pattern by wetting it with solvent. After it sits for a short time, the pattern comes off in one piece. I use mineral spirits for the solvent and 3M77 for my adhesive. You may need a different solvent for your adhesive.
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They have them. I never thought of that. Yes, but it makes product photography much easier. The problem I have with using a phone is the typical wide-angle lens and the inability to set things like the depth of field/F-stop. I have used three cameras and two phone cameras for this. My Canon blows them all away. It is better quality and much easier to use. I had a couple of older Nikon (non SLRs) that worked great but the problem was they were very difficult to configure. I gave those away.
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I buy a lot online, and if a seller doesn't give good details and photos, I go elsewhere. I have seen many listings where the images don't match the description. First, you need to get seen. That is my primary reason for asking this question. There may not be a good answer.
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I photograph using a digital SLR camera with proper lighting, and occasionally, I photograph the item in my hand to show scale. In the final edit, if I see any defects, like dirt cuts, etc., it gets rejected and deleted. Again, the primary reason for making videos is for those social media sites that don't allow photos. However, through experimentation on sites that allow both video and pictures, I have discovered that the click-through rates and saves are much higher for videos, even slide shows. For Etsy videos, the search results show the video if one exists. When you mouse over the photo, you see the video. Slide shows are easy to make and work well here. Google Merchant Center does something similar with the ads, but Google creates the slide show from the photos in the listing or provided by you.
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I am talking about both. When promoting on social media, some places only let you post videos. I've done many of the slide shows in video format, and those are a piece of cake. I use software to do drag-and-drop, set times, crossfades, and soundtracks. I have the photos already, so it only takes a short time. I don't use a phone for any of this.
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Here is one that shows it tilted. https://baileigh.com/bss-22-22-scroll-saw I suspect the people posting the listings know little about scroll saws.
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I primarily want to make the videos for video-only places or sites where videos get more clicks. It's easy to make a short slide show for the Etsy video. When Etsy first added the video option, my first thought was that it was a way to add more photos, which is exactly what I used the videos for. This does not work well for ornaments. A while back, I posted some sample photos in the Goimagine forum: an ornament with several different-colored backgrounds and one with a Christmas tree background. I asked which one they liked the best. Black won no contest. People thought it looked elegant. Second was the Christmas tree background, although several people thought it looked cluttered.
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I want to make short videos of ornaments I have made. I have a turntable, and creating videos of the toys I make is easy. However, the only thing I can come up with for making a video of an ornament is to hang it from an ornament stand and spin it on the turntable. I'm hoping that some of you might have other ideas.
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This looks like the same saw with cosmetic differences. https://www.amazon.com/Bucktool-Inch-Scrow-Saw-Woodworking/dp/B0CPDT9BMW The Rikon version doesn't look much different. Here is another one. This time, pricing is by container. Does anyone need a couple of hundred scroll saws? https://www.allwin-tools.com/new-arrival-csa-certified-22-inch-variable-speed-scroll-saw-with-1-6a-motor-product/ Yet another one. Either they come from the same factory, or the Chinese are copying each other.
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The first time for me was rattling and vibration. I replaced the entire drive link with one from Seyco. Two years later the motor began stopping at random times and I replaced it with a motor from Seyco. I also replaced the electronics because I discovered that the output that controls the motor speed was constantly varying which was causing the motor to speed up and slow down. So, now the only replaceable parts that haven't been replaced is the speed control pot and the power switch. I have a Pegas saw but the EX-21 is still my go to saw because it is set up perfectly for me.
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I went buy Harbor Freight today to take a look and they sold it before I got there.
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I have had two failures, both of which occurred during the Christmas rush.
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Race Car for my donation to a cancer charity
BadBob replied to rafairchild2's topic in Bragging Rights
I have known about them for years but did not own a set until a few years ago when I watched a video of a luthier using them to repair an expensive guitar. After watching the video, I bought a set. If you do anything that requires precise hole sizes, these are what you need. You can get letter and number size bits separately, but they seem to be most commonly available in sets that have letter, number, and fractional sizes. I bought mine at Harbor Freight. -
Beautiful! What kind of finish did you use?
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Race Car for my donation to a cancer charity
BadBob replied to rafairchild2's topic in Bragging Rights
I'm enlarging the hole with a larger bit. For example, I have a 1/4-inch hole, and the dowel is too tight. 1/4-inch = 0.25 On my drill size chart, the next larger size is F, which is 0.257 or 7 thousandths of an inch larger. Yes, I could sand the dowels to fit, but I think this is much easier. I buy dowels, pegs, and wheels in large quantities. I have purchased 1,000 wheels of a single size before. My local stores only keep a few dowels on hand; the last time I checked, they were pine.
