BadBob
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Everything posted by BadBob
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The original design had single wheels on the rear. This was unstable. This is a classic case of designers not testing their designs.
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It is not my design. You can get it here.
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This one was shipped a few days ago. I make them to order and sell them in my Goimagine and Etsy stores. It is one of five trucks in a series all designed to be towed by this tow truck.
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I was searching for something else, and this popped up on the list.
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I have the same feeling, but I only have two saws. If I didn't have a second saw, I probably would buy the Harbor Freight saw.
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The truck body is cut from 2x6 pine and brush-painted with bright red acrylic. The wheels are finished with shellac. The hook is 1/2-inch baltic birch.
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For a Harbor Freight warranty, you can do an in-store replacement. If you break it, they give you a new one.
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Formica/laminate, like those used on countertops, might work if you can figure out a way to hold it flat and still be able to remove it. In my limited experience, zero clearance on a scroll saw does not stay zero clearance for long. Whatever you use, you will need to be able to change it from time to time.
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I've done this with plastic cards. I only use it when cutting small parts, so catching them on the edge of the card isn't an issue for me. I had one of the magnetic tops, but I did not like it. I much prefer the waxed steel top.
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I have a disarmed GAU-8 Shell sitting on the bookshelf next to me.
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I have several of these and make them different every time. The body I cut from 1-3/4 inch square poplar. The wings and tail sections are made from walnut. THe canopy and the engine nacelles are stained.
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EX21 is mounted on a 2x4 mobile base, and the pedal is attached to that. It is the perfect height for me so that the weight of my foot holds the switch on.
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That is the one I wanted, but they don't have one that fits the model I have.
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It is on page 208 in Scroll Saw Handbook With Patterns by Patrick Spielman. isbn:9780806968728 You can find this book used for $6 or less.
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- scroll saw challenge
- november
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It might be a tough decision for me. Through experimentation, I found that my shop vac works better for most of my tools, probably because they are all designed for that. I don't have anything that connects to a 4-inch connector. I'm waiting to see if someone does a comprehensive review.
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There isn't much to wear out on a jointer—a couple of bearings and the blades.
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That got my attention. I have an older Delta with a bag filter that I want to change to a paper filter. No one makes a filter for it, so I am going to be watching this one closely.
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This is 40 or more years old. It has been hanging on the wall everywhere we have lived since. It was made from pallet wood and one of the first things I cut on a scroll saw. I'm living this today with my grandchildren.
- 10 replies
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- 16
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- scroll saw challenge
- november
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Spiral blades are unsuitable for puzzles as the kerf is much too wide. I use a Pegas #3 for puzzels.
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Why does it suck?
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I have made several from glued-up pieces. This one is made from some salvaged drawer parts.
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I am about 1/4 mile from I-10. I probably would have stayed in the Air Force for 30 years, but I was denied reenlistment in one of the big downsizings they did in the early 1990s.
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LEDs use a lot less electricity have little or no flicker instant on, even in cold weather produce better quality light environmentally friendly (No mercury) and no trips to hazardous waste disposal dimmable they are small and easy to install I have been changing to LEDs for a long time. I replaced fluorescent ceiling lights in my shop with LEDs. The fixtures are 1-inch wide and 48 inches long, and they daisy chain together, so I have a continuous. I got 3 times the light and, instant on at full brightness, reduced the cost of electricity by about 25%.
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It must be nice. Where I live, there is the constant roar of traffic.
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When mounting a new blade in my EX21 or Pegas saw, I tighten the clamps and flip the tension lever on and off. If the blade is not inserted perfectly vertically, there will be a bow in the untensioned blade. If I see a bow, I release and retighten one of the clamps and the bow goes away. If you get it inserted perfectly there is no bow.
