BadBob

I use a 1/8-inch Timber Wolf blade and a Carter Stabilizer. It isn't the easiest thing to do.

I have the Carter Stabilizer on one saw and the Carter Guides on the other. The stabilizer doesn't work the same on a Shopsmith bandsaw as it does on other band saws but it does work. I cut this chicken from a piece of 2x4.

The new brushes were considerably longer than the old brushes. I installed them but no joy. There is power to the motor but it isn't moving at all. I ordered a new motor.

I use Timber Wolf blades and order direct.

I agree; I have two Shopsmith bandsaws, one saw setup for curves and the other for resawing. Both saws have different blade guides installed as well. True for any saw.

Several years ago, I had a project that required drilling large holes in 1/4-inch steel. I purchased one of these, thinking I would sell it later after I finished my project. It quickly became one of my most used tools and touches every project. It now sports a fancy Magwitch fence.

I like this idea, but I never use the fence on my drill press, so it stays to the back all the time of the table, and it is only there to keep stuff from falling off the back. My table came with the drill press and sat unused for two or more years until I decided to use it or get rid of it. I kept it because I liked having disposable squares.

I replaced the controller board. The voltage fluctuations are now about 0.5 volts DC, and the saw runs noticeably smoother. However, after running for about an hour, it stopped while running at full speed. Voltages are good to the brushes. The commutator looks good from what I can see through the brush hole. I connected an ohmmeter to the motor leads, slowly turned the motor by hand, and got random readings. When applying power to the motor at the slowest speed setting and turning, it would start and run for a short period and then stop. The same thing happened at high speed. I suspect the brushes and have ordered a new set from Seyco. The brushes are not listed on the parts page. You need to call and ask for them. Brushes are cheaper than a new motor. This photo shows the controller boards with the new one on the left. Note the sealed trim pots on the old board. I had to adjust the new board to get the same voltage as the old one. The motor is a 60-volt motor, but the most I can get out of either controller board is 50 volts. I have yet to find out what the correct output is. The trim pots adjust the maximum and minimum voltage output.

This one is clamped to the existing table. It came with the used drill press. The fence is not so good but I keep it in place because it keeps things (wood chips) from falling off the back of the table.

I just ran across this in my EX-21 manual. "However, the Limited Lifetime Warranty does not cover any product used for professional or commercial production purposes nor for industrial or educational applications. Such cases are covered by our Standard 2-year Limited Warranty only. The Limited Lifetime Warranty is also subject to the “Conditions and Exceptions” as listed below."

I received the controller board today. I am currently reviewing the manual to make sure I get everything aligned correctly when I put it back together.

There are all sorts of plans and videos available for making these.

I use a steel straight edge and a knife to make straight folds in patterns. I line up the straight edge and make a very light cut using the straight edge as a guide that only cuts part way into the paper. The pattern will fold right on the cut line.

This method is the way I always drill holes. Raising the bit will allow the chips to clear, which reduces friction and thus reduces burning. Sharp-quality bits are also beneficial. I have watched many woodworkers drill holes in YouTube videos. Most of them force the bit through the wood. I make lots of toys. Toys can have holes that are part of the design, and tearout on the back side can send the toy to the scrap heap. I have become quite good at drilling holes with little or no tearout.

Where can I get this pattern?

Mine is nearly 40 years old. I would not buy it today.

Probably not. It depends on how patient you are.

The air used to suck up the dust is not used to cool the motor. The motor has a separate fan for cooling.

Shopsmith here also. I have had mine since about 1981. I have upgraded several times since then. I have almost enough parts to build two more.

I had tried three different "mini chucks" of the type you mount in the drill chuck. All three chuck wobble so bad they were unusable.

Same here; I rarely use the rotary tool for drilling. I would only use it for a bit that would not fit in the actual drill press.

I have three drill presses. I use a huge Central Machinery from harbor freight for large bits and sanding. The chuck on this one will not hold anything much smaller than 1/4". A bench top Grizzly that I use for small bits. I have three chucks for this one. The original chuck would not hold bits much smaller than 1/4". I replaced it with a Southbend chuck that worked well for all but the smallest bits. I replaced it with Wen keyless chuck, which has worked great for me and will hold even smaller bits. My third drill press is a Dremmel that has an ancient Craftsman rotary tool mounted in it. It gets used for the tiny bits.

Why the gloss lacquer?

Thanks, I wanted to share this because I found it extremely difficult to find any credible information on troubleshooting DC motors and their associated electronics.

Sorry, I can't do that.