BadBob

I should have known you would have thought of that.

I will be using Johnson's Paste Wax for a long time. When I learned they had discontinued it. I bought every can I could find locally. That still had the old price.

I have tried several spray adhesive brands, but none work as well as 3m 77. I have two must-have requirements. The adhesive must stay in place while I am cutting, and the adhesive must be dissolved with mineral sprits. I think I have tried almost every way there is to attach patterns. Attaching patterns directly to the wood and removing them by wetting the pattern with mineral spirits is my favorite.

"Johnson’s Paste Wax was discontinued at the end of 2021 due to its suspected carcinogenic properties." I suspect this is the Stoddard solvent used in making the wax. You can make paste wax.

I prefer the Roman numerals for most clocks. I don't make many.

Why not order the clocks without the battery?

I run my saw as fast as it will go except when I cut thin stock such as 1/4-inch plywood. This may be because I used as single speed saw for years and it is what I am used to. I would use a finer blade with the single-speed saw if the cut was too aggressive.

I used hole saws for a long time and have a collection of every size they make. Cutting them with the scroll saw gives much better results and lets me use small bits of wood I would never try cutting with a hole saw. I first used the scroll saw because I was making wheels from some wood that was tearing badly, and I had to cut them oversized and sand them to the size I needed to get smooth edges. I tried cutting them with my scroll saw and was pleased with the result. Another benefit to using a scroll saw to cut wheels is that I can make any size wheel I want, and there is no need for a collection of hole saws.

I have made lots of wheels. My preferred method is to drill the center holes first, cut them out free hand with the scroll saw, and sand them with a belt sander and a jig. The jig is a dowel in a piece of wood clamped an appropriate distance from the sanding belt. It is fast and easy, and I can produce a hundred perfectly round and sanded smooth wheels. The jig is so simple that I never keep them. I have made wheels from squares using a coarse 60-grit sanding belt. This works great, but if you think scroll saws make a lot of dust, you should try this.

It happens to me and usually goes underneath something. I used to lose small pieces while using my sanding mop. Two things helped that a lot. A tall fence on the back of the drill press stops 98% of them, and a net over the end of my dust collection to keep them from entering the shop vac.

Yes, I wax! Not only will it make your table slick, but it will help to protect the coating. I wax everything that rusts or slides. Many of my projects get a coat of paste wax and a final buffing. Some clamps should not be waxed. Harbor Freight trigger clamps will slip if you wax them. A can of Johnson's paste wax has a permanent home on my workbench.

Stuff expands to fill all available space.

I use plywood where strength is an issue.

There are other things I don't like about "My" old two-speed 226 Hawk besides the round blade holder. I used this saw for a long time before I got my Excalibur EX21. Now it is only used for a backup, and I am actively looking for a used replacement. Reaching the back of the saw to release the blade tension. The blade mounting system is a pain to use. I need a tool to hold the top clamp in place. If I forget to use the tool, the blade will not be mounted correctly. If I forget to take the tool off, it goes flying. I don't like the aluminum table top. That is a personal preference, but I prefer steel or cast iron. If I change blade sizes, I have to adjust the tension. If I forget and it is a smaller blade, it will likely break the blade shortly after the saw starts. By comparison, the Excalibur EX-21: It is easy to tension once you have it set up correctly. Flip the front lever, and done. Changing blades is simple and fast. It has a steel table, and other parts are also steel allowing me to position lights or any other magnetic thing just about anywhere. The blade holders don't come off. Internal cuts are quick and easy. I never heed to crawl around the floor looking for dropped parts. I can change blades to a different size without adjustment. I did change the clip to the newer style. It is plastic with ears on the side. If the blade breaks, the bottom blade clamp will drop almost every time. Usually, the clamp remains on the saw under the table. The older metal clamp drops the clamp a lot less, but when it does, it is on the floor somewhere and rarely on the saw. I have three different clamps for the hawk. Two will not work with the plastic holder because they are too small. The larger one works with both the plastic and the steel holder. The brass part is removable.

This is what I have. I bought it because of the seat height range. I have saws and a workbench that all have different heights.

The round blade holders are enough for me to say no. Once you have crawled around the floor looking for one that went flying, you will understand why.

I have the Ridgid. I mostly use the smallest spindle. I have a piece of hardboard notched to fit around the spindle for sanding small pieces to eliminate the bump I get when the piece I am sanding moves from the table to the plastic insert. The dust collection works well.

You can make paste wax.

https://www.craftparts.com/ This is usually in the plans with part numbers.

Fat Fendered Toy Car Made from a pine 2x4 and hand-painted with a brush and pink acrylic paint. The wheels are finished with amber shellac.

I cut up to 1-1/2 inches thick with no problems yet. I have cut 2 inches but I didn't like it. It is too easy to get my finger mashed cutting 2 inches. If it is above 1-1/2 inch its a bandsaw project.

If you forget. Ask again.

I hold small parts by drilling a small hole that will not be seen after assembly and inserting a dowel, toothpick, or skewer to make a handle. If I have trouble getting the handle tight enough, I will add a bit of glue and cut it off flush when I am done. For heavier items, I hold the handle with long-nosed locking pliers. Wheels on a stick. Plastic spring clamps work for some things. My pointed Dowel collection. Truck body on a stick. This one is glued in and cut flush after painting. Fenders on a stick. Halloween on a stick.

Most of mine are 1st class. I had issues with Etsy overcharging for multiple small, lightweight items until I figured out how to fix it. I set the package size to 1x1x1 and the shipping weight to 1oz. Now they can order 15 items before hitting the 16oz limit, where Etsy will charge for priority mail.

If you use Etsy shipping, you can ship up to 16 ounces of first-class. At the post office, it is 12oz. You can use the bulk editor on Etsy to change prices. I don't know if that would help, but in some cases, it works for me.