BadBob

You'll get over it.

I don't keep the paper. Once the scans are backed up I shred them.

I got to throw in my long-winded two cents worth. I have scanned hundreds and possibly thousands of pages. If you are scanning from a book and want an excellent scan, you must get it flat on the scanner. In some cases, this will mean damaging the binding. If I am scanning the entire book, I don't care if I break the binding. Cutting the binding off makes it easier. Once the book is scanned, I will be happy with the scans. I no longer care about the book. You can scan entire books by cutting off the binding and hand-feeding them. It is a slow, tedious task. Nowadays, I pay someone to scan books for me. I highly recommend "Book Scan US" for this. They have scanned 47 books so far for me. How much it costs is complicated. You need to ship the books to them, which is a cost. After that, the basic cost is $1 to scan a book of 300 pages or less. If you want the book back that costs return shipping, there are options (OCR, Higher resolutions, etc.) and small fees for some things. For example, I had some odd-sized books that needed to be cut down to fit their scanners. You also need a dropbox account and a Google account. You order by filling out a Google sheet spreadsheet. You get your books via a shared folder on DropBox. It takes them a long time to get the scanning done. I think it is one person. You only pay once the work is completed. "Book Scan US" is highly recommended. I'm working on box number three. I load all my scanned books into Calibre, where I can tag them, add the contents, and index them to the comments. It is all searchable. Scroll Saw Wood Working and Crafts believe their method is a copy protection scheme. They are wrong. I have the digital versions of the magazines from their CDs, and I don't have any severe problem getting patterns from those. I have to put some back together because they were scanned as separate pages. If I were to scan the paper, I would cut the patterns out, cutting them in half to get them to fit on the scanner if needed. The first thing I do when I cut a scanned pattern is open it in Gimp and clean it up if needed. If the pattern is in more than one piece, I can put it together in Gimp. Next, I copy the pattern to Inkscape and trace it converting it to SVG format. There are some tweaks you can do in Inkscape, like setting the line width and color, but the big thing is that once I have the pattern in SVG format, I can make it any size I want with zero degradation. When I triple the size, I don't get broad gray pixelated lines, and the lines stay the same when I shrink a pattern. The sizing works great. If I want a pattern 4 inches high, I lock the dimensions and set the height to four inches. When I print the pattern, I get a four-inch pattern. I can set the page size to the dimensions of the piece of wood I am working with, add the patterns I want to use, resize and turn them any way I need to make maximum use of the wood. Set the page size back to normal and print. It is a steep learning curve, but it is worth the effort.

Yes you can, but you can cut the binding with your scroll saw. I would mark a line about 1/16 to 1/8 inch in from the binding and cut it on the scroll saw.

They look cast to me.

My saw does not have a front tension lever lever. It is a two speed saw that required you to move the belt to change speeds. I never have changed the speed.

I cleaned it for the photos.

I have granite plates and lots of sandpaper, so lapping the sides of the Pivot is a piece of cake. Compared to flattening the back of a chisel, this will be easy. As far as I can tell, the saw works fine. However, I have never had my hands on a new finely tuned version, so I could be wrong. The only new saw I have owned was a cast iron AMT. Blade changes were a pain, but they cut very smooth. I cut fretwork on it where the edges were so smooth they were glossy.

I will probably order the washer from Bushton since I am ordering the clip and I've already paid the shipping cost.

I getting ready to buy one of those plastic clips that @kmmcraftsposted about in another thread. I called Bushton to see if it would work, and they said it would. It has two holes, and my old metal one has one hole. They wanted the model and serial number, which I had on hand. I found my AWOL lower clamp, and this will keep me from crawling around on the floor with a flashlight in the future. In the same thread, a nylon washer was mentioned. I don't have one, and the parts breakdown doesn't show a washer under the lever. Is the washer an upgrade for my saw? Should I get one? My next question needs pictures. It was also mentioned that the "Connector Rod Pivot" (wedge) needed to be sharp for the saw to work correctly. Since I don't have anything to compare it with, can you look at the photos and tell me if this one is OK? Here are some photos of my top wedge: And the Serial Number Plate

I was in a store yesterday and happened on a rack of reading glasses. I tried on every size they had to see how far away the focus was for each magnification. Having several sets of lenses would greatly benefit me. I sometimes work on tiny things and need high magnification. For the scroll saw, low magnification would work better for me. Thinking about it, I concluded that a lighted magnifying glass lamp might work better on my scroll saw while the head-mounted magnifier would be better for other things. My near vision changes slightly with my glucose levels, and being able to adjust the magnifying glass instead of changing lenses is a better fit for my needs.

I have an older RBI Hawk. Sometime when it breaks a blade the bottom clamp will come out and go flying. I have one now that is AWOL.

That looks like the tension rod on the table.

I have cut with my EX-21 without the blade tensioned. It acted a little odd but it still worked.

Thanks, I don't think I have ever seen a G4.

Is there an easy way to identify a G4 saw from a photo?

If you use a head mounted magnifier for your scroll saw work, what magnification do you use?

Thanks for sending me off down a rabbit hole. I found a couple of the lower cost magnifiers that might be worth the money just to try them. I'm guessing that the magnification required for use on a scroll saw might be different for each person. Both of these come with a full set of lenses for you to try. The first one has glass lenses while the second one has plastic lenses. Headband Magnifier Double Lens Head-Mounted Reading Magnifier Loupe Jewelry Visor Opitcal Glass Binocular Magnifier with Lens Magnification-1.5X 2X 2.5X 3.5X Headband Lighted Magnifying Glasses with Led Light, Head Mount Magnifier Glasses Visor Handsfree Headset Magnifier Loupe for Close

The drying rack looks a lot like an Excalibur dehydrator.

A whiskey smoker is a tool used to add smoke and smokier flavor to a drink, usually an old fashioned. It typically consists of combustible wood chips or sawdust, a device to light it, and a box or dome to contain the smoke.

I think you have just opened a can of worms.

It really depends on the project. I would rather cut solid wood but on some projects solid wood is to weak and I use plywood. I have cut other materials. MDF and laminated flooring cone to mind.

Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HX2EVPS/ I have used this lamp style for years (40+) and never had one fail. I currently have 10. I recommend a high-quality Daylight LED bulb. I like the GE Lite Stik 1600 lumen if you can get them. From time to time these get scarce.

I have wanted to make bowls for a long time. These are inspiring.

That fixed it. If you search "All" of Amazon for "Reusable Stencils" You will find lots of stencils that could be used for scroll saw projects.