BadBob

@kmmcrafts How did you decide which items to put the ads on?

Details?

As best I could without disassembling the motor. The truth is that I got tired of messing with it. I may disassemble and repair it once the new motor is here. The failure happened at the worst possible time and is the second time my primary saw fail during the holiday season. I wanted it fixed.

One of the things I have learned about bandsaws: I Never use my resaw to cut curves or it will never track straight again.

I copied this from my ED-21 Manual. It seems to contradict itself. Helpful Hints On Blade Tension Determining correct blade tension is somewhat subjective. It is learned through experience and is somewhat dependent on personal preference. A properly tensioned blade will last longer and be much less likely to break prematurely. If the blade tension is too loose, you will notice that the blade will tend to drift or slip offline when cutting, and you may also experience excessive vibration or unusual noise. A blade that is too tight will break prematurely. Assuming the blade has been properly installed in the blade mounts when the blade tension lever is pushed fully back towards the rear of the saw, the blade should be properly tensioned. Test the blade tension by lightly plucking on the blade, like you would a guitar string, with your finger. If the blade is tight and tensioned correctly, you will get a clear and even note. If so, you are ready to proceed to operating and cutting with the saw. If not, for some cases after double checking that the blade is properly installed in the blade mounts, further blade tension fine tuning can be made by adjusting the rear knob to raise the upper arm slightly. Note: this is not the main function of the adjustment knob (see the following paragraph) and using this knob as the primary blade tensioner will cause premature wear and damage to the machine. This saw has an adjustment knob K in the rear that can raise the blade mount up to 1” (25 mm). This allows you to fine-tune blade tension when needed, as well as to reposition the saw blade at a point where you can use a different part of the blade in the cutting area. This also allows you to use a piece of band saw blade, cut to a length of 5”- 6” (127-150 mm) in your saw, and gives you up to 3 inch cutting capacity when needed.Note: Do not over tension the knob as this can cause premature wear and damage to the machine.

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Sharp quality blades can make a huge difference as can choosing the correct blade for the job at hand. Assuming the bandsaw is aligned properly.

That method would work and the saw is simple enough. Using that method I would start with the cheapest part and work my way up which is kind of what I did. The real problem with trouble shooting these is that there are no specs available for the motor or the controller board.

I use a 1/8-inch Timber Wolf blade and a Carter Stabilizer. It isn't the easiest thing to do.

I have the Carter Stabilizer on one saw and the Carter Guides on the other. The stabilizer doesn't work the same on a Shopsmith bandsaw as it does on other band saws but it does work. I cut this chicken from a piece of 2x4.

The new brushes were considerably longer than the old brushes. I installed them but no joy. There is power to the motor but it isn't moving at all. I ordered a new motor.

I use Timber Wolf blades and order direct.

I agree; I have two Shopsmith bandsaws, one saw setup for curves and the other for resawing. Both saws have different blade guides installed as well. True for any saw.

Several years ago, I had a project that required drilling large holes in 1/4-inch steel. I purchased one of these, thinking I would sell it later after I finished my project. It quickly became one of my most used tools and touches every project. It now sports a fancy Magwitch fence.

I like this idea, but I never use the fence on my drill press, so it stays to the back all the time of the table, and it is only there to keep stuff from falling off the back. My table came with the drill press and sat unused for two or more years until I decided to use it or get rid of it. I kept it because I liked having disposable squares.

I replaced the controller board. The voltage fluctuations are now about 0.5 volts DC, and the saw runs noticeably smoother. However, after running for about an hour, it stopped while running at full speed. Voltages are good to the brushes. The commutator looks good from what I can see through the brush hole. I connected an ohmmeter to the motor leads, slowly turned the motor by hand, and got random readings. When applying power to the motor at the slowest speed setting and turning, it would start and run for a short period and then stop. The same thing happened at high speed. I suspect the brushes and have ordered a new set from Seyco. The brushes are not listed on the parts page. You need to call and ask for them. Brushes are cheaper than a new motor. This photo shows the controller boards with the new one on the left. Note the sealed trim pots on the old board. I had to adjust the new board to get the same voltage as the old one. The motor is a 60-volt motor, but the most I can get out of either controller board is 50 volts. I have yet to find out what the correct output is. The trim pots adjust the maximum and minimum voltage output.

This one is clamped to the existing table. It came with the used drill press. The fence is not so good but I keep it in place because it keeps things (wood chips) from falling off the back of the table.

I just ran across this in my EX-21 manual. "However, the Limited Lifetime Warranty does not cover any product used for professional or commercial production purposes nor for industrial or educational applications. Such cases are covered by our Standard 2-year Limited Warranty only. The Limited Lifetime Warranty is also subject to the “Conditions and Exceptions” as listed below."

I received the controller board today. I am currently reviewing the manual to make sure I get everything aligned correctly when I put it back together.

There are all sorts of plans and videos available for making these.

I use a steel straight edge and a knife to make straight folds in patterns. I line up the straight edge and make a very light cut using the straight edge as a guide that only cuts part way into the paper. The pattern will fold right on the cut line.

This method is the way I always drill holes. Raising the bit will allow the chips to clear, which reduces friction and thus reduces burning. Sharp-quality bits are also beneficial. I have watched many woodworkers drill holes in YouTube videos. Most of them force the bit through the wood. I make lots of toys. Toys can have holes that are part of the design, and tearout on the back side can send the toy to the scrap heap. I have become quite good at drilling holes with little or no tearout.

Where can I get this pattern?

Mine is nearly 40 years old. I would not buy it today.

Probably not. It depends on how patient you are.