BadBob

I run everything through Inkscape. If they need it, I clean them up first with Gimp and copy them to Inkscape, where I use the "Trace Bitmap" function to convert them to vector format. Once this is done, I can manipulate the pattern in any way I need.

All mains-driven lighting flickers. Flicker is more visible in LEDs because they do not have the persistence of other types of lighting. You can mitigate LED flicker by using quality drivers and avoiding dimmable LED drivers that work by pulsing. Notice that battery-powered LEDs do not flicker. Google LED flicker will get you more info on this than you can read.

I've ordered from them before.

I might have to do that. I had a customer ask for a custom order to be made from maple yesterday. Maple isn't available locally. The cheapest I could find where they would ship was $120 for 10bf delivered.

Some of us do not have a local hardwood dealer. Unless you consider a 200 mile drive local.

I've seen those glue-up boards. They showed up a few months back. I haven't purchased any.

You can get sample cans at Home Depot interior or exterior. Lowe's has them too, but I don't have much experience with these.

Shellac is what I would use.

I have your book. I preordered it from Amazon. Recommended.

I have a foot pedal on my EX21 mounted on the mobile base. It is situated so that my relaxed left foot depresses the switch when I am sitting at the saw. I did not do this by design. I did not like it on the floor because it kept moving around every time the cord got bumped. I added a power strip to the back of the stand to have a convenient place to plug in my lights and turn everything on at once. As I was tying up all the wiring, I decided to mount the pedal and tie down all the wiring, so it didn't move around. Totally by accident, I came up with a workable solution for me. I was about ready to give up on foot peddles. I don't know what kind of switch it is. It came with the EX21 when I bought it. My RBI Hawk does not have a peddle, and it does not bother me to use it without one, perhaps because I used scroll saws for years without a footswitch.

Variable speed has more to do with the type of motor than voltage. Universal motors like those in routers can be used with speed controllers. Induction motors cannot be controlled this way. Digital motors are easy to control speed but require a specialized controller, aka computer.

Stay away from anything that uses pin end blades. Why? Because blade selection will be very limited. My first saw had pined blades, but it only took me a few weeks before I upgraded to use pinless blades. I used this saw for years until I picked up a use RBI Hawk for $100 that needed a little TLC. I make a lot of toys with this saw. Cutting fretwork was a challenge because the blade changes took so long. I think it cut as good or better than both of my current saws. With the right blade and hardwood, I could get smooth glass cuts. I only got rid of it after I picked up a used Excalibur EX21 because I stumbled across a video describing how easy it was to do interior cuts. Fast blade change was a game-changer for me. I had recently started selling some of my creations, and time is money. I gave the AMT saw to a friend, and it is still in use today. The only problem I ever had with it was the blower that came with it was junk, but an aquarium pump quickly took care of that. It is the only new saw I ever purchased. I think a used scroll saw the way to go if they are available. Used scroll saws are rare in my area, but I keep searches running all the time on Crags List and Facebook Market Place just in case something interesting pops up nearby. I some areas, used saws are for sale all the time. Test it as best you can before you buy, and be prepared to spend a little on the saw after you get it. An older scroll saw that has been sitting for a while might need a little TLC. I spent about $100 on upgrades and replacement parts for my RBI Hawk. If you can't work on the, saw yourself is the only reason I can think of not buying used. Paying someone to upgrade or repair your saw would negate any savings you get from buying used.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Podcast I've been listening to podcasts since way before apple decided that they had invented them. Most are free, and there is probably a podcast available for any interest that you might have. There are thousands of them I use, and I highly recommend an Android app called BeyondPod. It has a built-in search function that helps you find podcasts. With BeyondPod, you can automate the entire process to automatically download all your podcasts and build and maintain a prioritized playlist.

I have the same headphones. I usually listen to podcasts while I work. I've never had a problem with them, glasses or not.

Out of curiosity, I did a bit of research on spray paint caps. I found an entire world out there I knew nothing about. There are many different types of caps you can get. All of them do not work on all spray cans. https://shop.bombingscience.com/spray-paint-caps Art Primo Caps 101: An introduction to Spray Paint Nozzles https://artprimo.com/catalog/art_primo_caps-101 From my reading I think what you need for 3M 77 is the NY Fat cap.

After each use, I remove the nozzle and drop it into mineral spirits. I keep several in the jar, and if I have an issue, I swap nozzles. I use 3M 77, but this should work with anything as long as you choose the appropriate solvent. I've never had a nozzle on the 3M 77 clog, but it does tend to build up on the nozzle and affect the spray pattern.

I ship first-class mail and only use priority mail if the weight goes over 16 ounces. I pack everything I can with air pillows or bubble wrap. When I get done wrapping and taping, you could throw it across the room and not hurt it, and that is without the box. I don't use priority mail boxes because they are rarely the correct size. I offer priority mail, but my customers do not want it. No one has ever asked for it. I shipped a package yesterday that was 11.25 x 6.50 x 7.50 inches long. It weighed 12-ounces and went, first class.

Shipping from Etsy is easy.

According to Patrick Speilman, silicon on or in the tape keeps the tape from sticking together. The silicon gets on the saw blade as it passes through the tape and provides lubrication. He writes about this in one of his books, where he shows photos of cherry cut with and without the tape. The cherry burns when it is cut without the tape. I suspect that all tapes are not created equal, which may explain variations in results.

Facts are facts. They are neither negative nor positive. Salvage wood is not free, and it takes time, effort, and money to salvage it. I know this from experience. I have salvaged wood in my shop now and make things with it.

Yet another expense to add to the cost of reclaimed/free wood.

Unless you are getting it dropped on your front porch or picking it up around your neighborhood, reclaimed wood can get very expensive. Ruin an expensive saw blade by hitting some hidden metal, and the big box lumber starts to look a lot cheaper. Been there, done that.

I used an aquarium air pump on an AMT scroll saw for years. They are cheap and last for years.

Thans, I just ordered two of these books.

I run everything through Inkscape to produce patterns I like and easily resize to the size I need. I'm not an expert Inkscape user. When I need to do something I don't know how to do, I look it up. It's well worth the effort to learn.