BadBob
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Everything posted by BadBob
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I have been doing something similar for years with dowels. I started using pointed dowels to finish wheels and soon discovered many uses for these. I have been doing something similar for years with dowels. I started using pointed dowels to finish wheels and soon discovered many uses for these.
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I have an EX21 and an older Hawk 220. I used an AMT made in Taiwan castiron saw for years until I saw someone change the blades on an EX21 and decided I had to have one. I have hands-on experience with Ray at Seyco and can't recommend him enough. The support is the best. I want to replace my old backup Hawk saw with one that works the same way as my EX21 so that when I pull it out and dust it off, I don't have to spend a day relearning how to use it. I have your exact problem; choosing between the Seco and Pegas saws.
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And the Seyco saw has features that the Pegas does not have.
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very simplistic fence for scroll saw
BadBob replied to zimmerstutzen's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I use a fine tooth Japanese dozuki saw for cutting dowels using this. It can cut through 1/4-inch dowels in a single stroke of the saw with very little.
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Dust collection finally. Head phone recommendations.
BadBob replied to Charlie E's topic in General Scroll Sawing
3M WorkTunes are my go to for the shop and yard work. I have two of these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0723CYHPZ/ -
Used scroll saws are rare where I live as are wood working tools of any kind. I think it has to do with the population where you live.
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I keep my glue nozzles in a jar of mineral spirits to prevent clogging.
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My EX21 is down and I get three custom orders. Go figure. This is why I have two saws even if the second one is old an clunky it will still get the job done.
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I have made many of these turkeys based on a Patrick Speilman pattern. The turkey is one of those patterns that doesn't look like much on paper and then looks excellent after you cut it and put it together. I made the first ones for a preshool that wanted them for the kids to paint, and I have been making them ever since.
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- november
- scroll saw challenge
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I have seen several places that recommend adding a sandbox to a scroll saw stand to reduce vibration. It's in one of Nick Engler's books, for sure. It is a sealed wood box full of sand mounted to the base of the scroll saw to reduce vibration. Have you built one of these?
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I wish I had known about the Vyper chair when I purchased my stool I would have bought one.
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I was on the phone with Ray Seymore yesterday and got a few tips I had yet to consider and instructions on removing the circuit board. I have yet to have a chance to do this, with it being Halloween and a custom order that came in. Custom orders are why I have two saws.
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My Hawk Model Number is 220, and it is a two-speed. I bought it cheap from someone who purchased it with a shop full of woodworking tools and never used it. I cleaned it up, replaced some parts, and upgraded everything I could. It worked well and considerably better than the AMT cast iron saw I used for years. A few things I don't like. The blade changes and making internal cuts are a pain. While it isn't a huge issue, I'm not too fond of aluminum tables and prefer steel or cast iron. This saw has exposed electrical connections under the bottom of the saw. I have been considering replacing it for a couple of years and would like to pick up another used EX21. However, good quality scroll saws are rare in the used market where I live.
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Mine is steel, and it is very tight., Fortunately, it rarely falls out. The one in your link has sides on it. Mine does not. I may get one of those and see if it fits.
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Do you know where the circuit board is in an EX21?
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Bowls
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I have checked every thing all the way back to the motor. Their is no voltage on the motor. I also checked the brushes. The brushes look good to me but I don't have any specs for them. All of the motors I have worked on the past had a minimum brush length.
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I regularly cut 1-1/2 inch stock, and I have cut 2 inches. My hawk has an old-style blade mounting system, which is a pain to use, and if the lower clamp falls out, I could be crawling around the shop for an hour trying to find it.
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This is an excellent point that I have yet to consider. I have never cut anything at an angle, but I have a book about making bowls with a scroll and want to try my hand at it. The plan is to replace my old RBI Hawk 220 with a new saw and repair the EX21. If I buy the Seyco, I would still be able to cut 45 degrees with the EX21. I want to have two saws similar enough that I can skip a relearning period when I need to switch to the backup. I'm using the RBI Hawk 220 now, and it takes me several hours to get used to it.
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I just finished cutting 24 3D reindeer where I accidentally tested the tape. On some of the patterns, I forgot to add the tape. I would be cutting a reindeer and wondering why this new blade was so dull. Then I noticed the tape was missing and added tape. Suddenly the blade was cutting as I would expect. In one of his books, Patrick Speilman says the tape has silicon on the top of the tape to keep it from adhering to itself. The silicon is what lubricates the blade. I use a lot of packing tape, and different brands may be manufactured differently. They are not all the same. This accounts for the variation you see in the results. 3M tape works, as does the Staples store brand.
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One day it worked, and the next, it did not. This has been coming for a while, as it would occasionally stop for a short time and start running again after a short pause. I thought my foot switch was going bad. I don't have any voltage at the motor terminals and suspect the electronics have failed. I dusted off my old RBI Hawk and went to work. What a difference. It is time to retire the old Hawk and buy a new saw. I'm going to buy a Seyco. I made this decision almost two years after spending some time on the phone with Ray Seymore troubleshooting and rebuilding my EX21.
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I'm still trending downward. My page views are double what they were last year.
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It's in my cart now. I'm going order it now. Thanks.
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I too stopped selling outside the US for much the same reasons. It got way to complicated and not worth the effort.
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Laser And CNC SVG Files For Scroll Saw Patterns
BadBob replied to kmmcrafts's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I get that. I pointed out so that people don't think that they need to get the file in PDF format when it is available as an SVG. If I get a pattern in some graphics format. I convert it to SVG before I print the pattern so I can easily make it what ever size I want and adjust line width.
