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BadBob

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Everything posted by BadBob

  1. BadBob
    I get paid once a month. I got mine last week.
  2. BadBob
    I have spent more money on blades than I paid for the three saws I have owned.
  3. BadBob
    When I switch from my EX21 to my Hawk scroll saw, I need different blades to accomplish the same task. For the EX21, I use #3MGT for almost everything. For the same type of project on the Hawk, I need a #5MGT because the #3MGT cuts so slowly. Any blade smaller than a #3 on my Hawk is almost unusable.
  4. BadBob
    WEN LL2156 21-Inch 1.6-Amp Variable Speed Parallel Arm Scroll Saw with Extra-Large Dual-Bevel Steel Table I'm not looking to buy; just curious about this one. Tha above links the Wen company page.
  5. BadBob
    I think you would need to use spiral blades a lot to get used to them.
  6. BadBob
    Until the payments don't show, I would consider this speculation at best.
  7. BadBob
    These com in handy from time to time in my shop. Craft Sanding Scraps, 5 Oz Bag, Mixed Grit, Various Shapes & Sizes They are a bit of a crapshoot as far grit size. These are scraps from maling fingernail files. I have seen the the finger nail files available in grits from 80-12,000. I cost a lot more but you can buy fingernail files in individual grits.
  8. BadBob
    You can get fine diamond needle files, just not from harbor freight. I have old-school steel needle files for fine work if needed.
  9. BadBob
    Diamond needle files are not exactly sandpaper, but I find they can serve the same purpose and I find them quite useful. They are cheap and last a very long time in my shop. WARRIOR Needle File Set, 10 Piece
  10. BadBob
    I glued strips of sandpaper to popsicle sticks shaped to my specific needs. Most of the sandpaper I have a cloth backing.
  11. BadBob
    Very clear. That is pretty much what I do. It is a tight squeeze, and I have bent blades while installing them. This saw is my backup and does not get used much.
  12. BadBob
    @kmmcrafts Is ther some secret method of getting the the blade in the slot that I am unaware of? I always struggle with this.
  13. BadBob
    Do you have it on both sides? I'm considering using foam board and possibly magnets to hold them in place. The foam board is $1.00 for a sheet, and I have lots of magnets. One 1/4 neodymium magnet would hold it in place.
  14. BadBob
    I used the new clamp with the blue handle and brass sleeve tonight and cut some 3/4-inch red oak using a #3MGT blade. I figured on cutting until the blade broke and find out if this clamp would stay in place. I cut until I ran out of things to cut, and the blade did not break. This clamp fits much better than the others. Here is a photo: I've been thinking that I might rig up some sort of baffel out of foam board and clamp on the side of the saw so the clamp can't escape. It would be a pain to remove them for blade changes but not near as much trouble as crawling around the floor with a flashlight trying to find the clamp.
  15. BadBob
    Posted 5 hours ago I don't believe they ever made a metal one. The steel one came with the saw, and the paint is an exact match. The saw is a very old two-speed version. The steel clamp is very tight.
  16. BadBob
    With a scroll saw, you can do so many things that your project determines the sanding tool you need.
  17. BadBob
    I have three lower clamps. The one on the left side came with the saw. The middle one I bought over the phone from Bushton. The third one is new and never used. I recently purchased it after the center clamp went on vacation for a few weeks. The brass sleeve slides off, and without the sleeve, it looks about the same as the center clamp. The original and the center clamp fit the original holder tightly. The new one with the sleeve would be impossible without removing the sleeve. I guess that these are made to fit two different holders. The newer one fits the plastic holder, and the others fit the old metal holder. What does the Hegner retainer look like?
  18. BadBob
    My metal one came on the saw. It looks original. The plastic one is so flimsy that it is almost useless.
  19. BadBob
    I agree. I've had one for more than ten years, and I have never even been tempted to sand anything with it.
  20. BadBob
    That is an interesting Idea. I did something similar with a sanding mop.
  21. BadBob
    I installed the new style plastic blade holder clip today and took it for a test run using a blade that I was fairly sure I would break sooner or later. I cut with it for about an hour before it broke, and the lower blade clamp is lost somewhere in my shop. I am going to put the old blade holder clip back. The plastic one is very flimsy and much easier to get the clamp in, but the older steel version holds the clamp tight and only lets it go once in a while. The truth is that I'm getting very tired of hunting for the clamp, and I am considering getting rid of it and parking a shiny new saw in its place.
  22. BadBob
    The Ottlite looks interesting. Definitely LEDs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NF1295A/
  23. BadBob
    I have seen the same thing. I used a Taiwan-made castiron saw sold by AMT for years. It was the smoothest cutting saw I have ever used. I'm talking glass smooth edges. I got rid of it because the blade chang was terrible when compared to an EX21.
  24. BadBob
    I had the same thought. In most cases, I only sand the edges of my scroll project to correct defects or to make wheels perfectly round. for example. In some woods, the edges are so smooth they are glossy.
  25. BadBob
    Same here, I use the mop for every project. I make more toys than anything, but I also like to make fretwork, ornaments, and puzzles. The sanding mop is helpful for all of these. The sanding tools you need depend on what you make and just how picky you are. There is no magic one size fits all sanding tool.
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