BadBob

I scan mine, clean them up with GIMP, and copy them to Inkscape and convert them to SVG files. From that point, it is easy to make them any size I want. I haven't had one, yet that was too big for my printer, but should that happen, I would send the print job to a nearby office supply store for printing. Books are a pain to scan, but compared to what I used to have to do scanning and converting is brain dead simple. Have you ever tried creating a pattern on a 1-inch grid from a poorly printed 3-inch pattern in a book? I was looking at a new book I purchased reticently, and that is almost all patterns and thinking that I should cut the spine off this one and scan it. Add all the pages to a PDF file just to keep them together is a viewable format. Import this into Calibre. Then back everything up and toss the book into the recycle bin. At this point, I have no use for the paper copy. All it will do is sit on the shelf, collecting dust, and take up shelf space I could use for something more useful. It took me a long time to get over, wanting to keep books but after years of watching them fall apart sitting on a shelf or in boxes. I got over it, and I gave away hundreds of them. The bed of my Ford Ranger was near full. I'm still getting rid of books.

I cut a puzzle yesterday and after it was finished I found a crack in one of the pieces. If I had seen this while I was cutting the puzzle it would have gone into the kindling bucket and I would have started over. However, this one did not show up until the puzzle was completely finished. the crack does not go all the way through and the puzzle has been coated with an oil and wax finish. Does anyone know a way to repair a crack like this? I was thinking about trying some thin CA glue.

Just replace it with a new genuine Loc-Line. That is what I did more than a year ago. It was worth every penny. Loc-Line Coolant Hose Assembly Kit Loc-Line Coolant Hose Assembly Pliers Loc-Line Coolant Hose Component

Thanks, I try to make the best I can with what I have.

I made a bunch of these three years ago from various pieces of wood I had laying around. The body on many of them was right at the maximum I could cut on my scroll saw. I ruined quite a few before I got good enough at cutting thick hardwood, and I got my finger mashed a couple of times before I learned to keep them out from under the scroll saw arm. This one is my favorite. After cutting these I discovered that cutting toys form 2x Southern Yellow Pine wasn't near as challenging

I'm planning on adding a few more.

Yes, I know this is an old thread but since I just ordered two of these right before I saw this and could not resist. I needed two more random orbital sanders because changing sandpaper wears out the loops on the back of my sandpaper before the grit wears out. Price was one of the reasons I purchased this one. I can buy two of these for the price of one of the sanders I was considering and three in some cases. However, the big deal for me was the dust port. It's round and fits my existing system. I'm getting rid of sanders that either don't have a dust port or they have some weird shape that I can't hook up to my shop vac. Most of my corded tools are Hitachi, and I would have liked to have two more, but I was sitting on a waiting list to get Hitachi sanders at a reasonable price for months. I usually buy refurbished. A coupon turned up for the Bauer sanders for $25, so I'm going to give them a try. I also purchased one of these for $20. I have several hundred 1/4-Sheets of sandpaper leftover from a project that didn't use near as much paper as I bought. I want to use it up, and the 1/4-sheet sanders I have either do not have a dust collection port or have ports with weird shapes that I can't connect to my vac. https://www.harborfreight.com/22-Amp-14-Sheet-Heavy-Duty-Palm-Finishing-Sander-64146.html I've used Harbor Freight sanders in the past that cost less than $10. The cost was so low that I could have done the project and thrown them in the trash and still come out ahead. The sandpaper was more expensive than the sander. I never had an issue with any Harbor Freight sander other than dust collection, which is why I am getting rid of them now.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N1MK51J/

I recently purchased two magnetic sewing machine lights to use on my scroll saw. I have been quite pleased with them. Bright white light, and they don't move. I highly recommend these. They come with steel disks that you can stick on to any smooth surface so the magnet mount will work even on aluminum, plastic, or glass or another smooth surface. These cost me $12 US each. Well worth the money. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N1MK51J/

I rarely use any purchased packing material. I keep boxes 12 inches or smaller and any reusable packing material my grandson doesn't get first. I also save double thickness box panels cut to save space. I use it as a stiffener for shipping puzzles in padded envelopes. Most things I ship weigh less than 16 ounces so unless the customer requests priority shipping it get sent first class.

I have my scroll saws mounted on a 2x4 frame with swivel double locking casters on all four corners. Other than testing the locking mechanism, I have never locked them. The saw stays put.

That is a good idea. I don't know what my customers would think about it. I save most of the packaging materials that come to my house and my family will bring some from work. My favorite filler is air pillows. I reuse a lot of amazon envelopes. I cut the top and sides off of them and roll my items inside of them so there is several layers of bubble wrap. The bubbles are on the inside of the envelopes.

I was thinking the same thing. The only toys I have made that have broken were made from red oak.

I shrink wrap puzzles and use stretch wrap for every thing else. I wrapped puzzles until I started making puzzles that were larger with more pieces and it was extremely difficult for me to get them to stay together while I wrap them. I don't do any shows yet so I just pile them a in plastic boxes until I get an order.

Maybe it was a packing technique problem. When I pack my items for shipping number one on the list is that it can't move. I roll the item tightly in bubble wrap and tape it. Once it is in the box I put in enough packing material so it is wedged tight in the center with two inches of padding all round if I can manage it. Before sealing the box I close the lid and shake it. If I hear anything move I pack some more. My customers have commented on on how well I pack things.

Don't see how sheets of packaging foam would be less abrasive. It is made from polyethylene the same as bubble wrap. I worked for Union Carbide for a while making many miles of polyethylene.

Maybe it is my imagination, but with the Pegas Clamps, my EX21 seems to cut better and faster, and the blades last longer.

I have seen it stated many places that bubble wrap is abrasive and that you should always pack with the bubbles on the outside. I have been using bubble wrap for years, and I have seen no evidence that this is true. The few reliable sources I have found that talk about abrasion say it prevents abrasion. Can someone point me to a reliable source for bubble wrap being abrasive? Also, a good source that says the bubbles should always be on the outside?

I just use an Allen wrench of the appropriate size. I have seen this video before but since it was not for the model I have I never watched it all the way through. I have a metal keeper. It is rare for it to come out but it does once in a while. Use usually when I am not quick enough turning off the saw. Everything that gets dropped in my shop will bounce or roll across the floor into the darkest corner available.

I have a Hawk 220 that I bought for $100. Mine is a two speed saw. You can change the speed by moving the belt. The saw was lightly used (never by the second owner) and neglected for a long time. I had to spend over $100 on parts and upgrades. Parts I remember replacing were the power cord and switch assembly, upper clamp, and bellows. Previously I had used a small cast iron AMT scroll saw. The saw cost me around $300 in total. I was pleased with it, and it was my primary saw for several years until I bought a used EX21. Today it is my backup saw. There are only a few things I'm not too fond of about myHawk 220. I wouldn't say I like the aluminum table. I want to use magnets for all sorts of things, and having a steel or cast iron table just works better for me. Blade changes are much more complicated and take longer than the EX21. The lower clamp will sometimes go flying if you break a blade. Buy extra clamps. I make toys mostly. The Hawk is suitable for making toys because inside cuts are minimal. If I were cutting fretwork regularly, I would not use this saw. All said and done; I don't regret buying it. @kmmcrafts I have never seen one of these wrenches before. How do you use it?

Metal dust usually aluminum, but other metals are used. I don't want metal dust floating around anywhere. I have open motors in my shop and electronics. Tiny bits of metal so small you can't see them can cause malfunctions. Health, no matter how good your dust collection, you can't get it all. I don't want to breathe metal, polycarbonate, and dust from whatever they happen to decide makes a good label. CDs & DVDs have BPA in polycarbonate. Dealing with wood dust is bad enough. I got all this from searching for "What are compact discs made of?" on Google. I should have posted that instead of the link.

All this made me curious about what CD/DVDs were made from. I found this: After reading this and folowing some of the links I don't think I'll be cutting an CDs.

Double post.

Yes, it will hold a #72 bit. However, is near the bottom end. a .025 (#75) diameter bit works, but the next smaller size I have .023 diameter will not work. If I close the chuck all the way it slide right in. That was much harder than I had expected. I spent an hour hunting for and measuring bits. I have some so tiny that if I ever dropped them they would be gone for ever. I almost needed tweezers to pick them up.

To use tiny drill bits, you might want to consider changing the chuck on your drill press to a chuck that can handle smaller bits. I changed mine to one of these. https://www.grizzly.com/products/South-Bend-Drill-Chuck-1-32-1-2-JT33/SB1370 I can drill holes in a tooth pick.