rash_powder

Bring your saw in the house. Mine is sitting in what was and sort of still is our tv room. Its under a multi-year renovation sort of thing and a disaster, so a little more dust doesn't hurt (i have a dust collection system connected). I'm in North Dakota, USA. I think our high for today was 11*F. Not sure what that is in Celsius, other than below 0. There wasn't much wind so that was good.

I looked at a parts list for the Dewalt, and the bearings look like they are not ball bearings; just plain bearings like in a car engine. I don't think they are made from the same material as auto bearings, but most likely are more of a bushing meaning they are made from bronze, which is supposed to hold the oil in the pores. I would still oil them whenever I could. I don't think grease is really recommended for bushings, but I have used Honda M77 moly paste on the bushings in my Hegner. Moly is some really neat grease - when the carrier oil burns off or dries up, the moly itself is still a lube; and its good to something like 700*F. Quite overkill for a scrollsaw, but if it works it works. If there are ball bearings in the saw, there used to be a product in the world of radio control cars for pressing grease into bearings.

Try Olson PGT blades. They are manufactured differently then a lot of the rest of blades. Instead of being stamped that leaves a slight burr and causes drift, the are milled. They should cut more 'straight' with the direction of push.

I haven't used or looked to closely at the little LED light strings. If they are wired in parallel, then just nip the un-needed off and tape the ends. Do this powered off, of course. The driver may not like to see a short.

An LED of whatever color you like, a resistor, small switch, and a 2032 battery are all that is really needed to build a light. A bit of hot glue to hold things in place and your done. Digikey carries all kinds of stuff like that, and generally gets things out quite quickly.

I've used a flexible cutting board. No idea the product name; got a pack of 3 or 5 different colors at Menards for about $5. Carpet tape held them on. They do wear out, but cheap and no wax needed. I also had a piece of 1/8" hardboard I stuck on to the table; also with carpet tape. I'm back to the aluminum table now. No reason, just went back to that. If I was doing a project larger than my table I would probably go with 1/8" hardboard. A frame could be attached underneath to make it more rigid and offer attachment points for legs if need be. Maybe put a poly coat on top and then wax it real good.

If I remember correctly, a website called Kaidomain sells LED parts. Mostly flashlight stuff, but that would work with the right power pack. Maybe a take a look there. Something may be there. Also, I think Banggood sells some LED parts too.

I didn't either until years ago on a motorcycle forum. One of the members was an aircraft mechanic and said that the FAA would shut an airport down for having Simple Green anywhere on site due to the corrosive nature and I think the graphite came up in the same post; or maybe from somewhere else. Its been a hot minute since it went into my head. Anyway, the relevance was that since motorcycles are primarily made from aluminum anymore, don't use the stuff. There's too much else to worry about when riding than structural failures.

No graphite, dry or wet, on any aluminum parts ever. Graphite will galvanically react to the aluminum and eat it away. Also, don't clean aluminum with Simple Green; again, it will eat it away. Keep the bearings and bushings properly lubed; everything clean of dust, grease, etc. Scrollsaws are low maintenance in my experience. The Craftsman saw I have has motor brushes so check them every so often and replace when needed. My Hegner really only has arm bushings to worry about. If you have maintained farm equipment, scrollsaws will be a breeze.

They stick with magnets, or as said with small metal plates that they then stick to. I also use a lighted magnifier, and a small accessory light for an auto from Menard's. Its really a phenomenal amount of light on my work, probably overkill, but it makes things much easier when there are no shadows due to light from a single point.

I have a set of these 'sewing machine' lights. One on each side of the blade as close to the work as I can get them without them being in the way. Nice and bright, no shadows. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09Y66V128/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&th=1

So if the tension is too high the blade will bow when released? I've been wondering a great while if I was tensioning correctly. The high c thing doesn't work for me.

It may be quite difficult to locate a manual for that. Dust collectors are quite simple machines, theres not much to be instructed on. Any bag or filter that is the correct diameter will fit. Flexible dryer hose will work, but there is a Powertec 4" dust hose that works better. Don't send big chunks through as everything it sucks up moves through the fan impeller. They can build a nice static charge so grounding the machine and the dust tube can help with static shocks. Thats about all I can think of that a manual might tell you.

If you don't care where they go, find a local charity (a LOCAL one, not a local branch of a national - those big ones are sketchy) and donate to them. They can use them at fundraiser sales for financial support. Locally for us, when I get to that point that I have extras, they will be sent to Turtle Mountain Animal Rescue or Journey Home; both are local animal rescues. Incidentally, if anyone near Grand Forks, ND is looking for a cat, we have are fostering a 1 year old that is good with cats, dogs, and kids, and just loves to be held and will even talk with you; we also have to 6 week old kittens who will be needing a home in about a month.

Pretty much every ornament I have ever cut came out of a 1/4" thick board that had a cup or twist to it. I try to be choosy and select straight and flat material, but its tough to find. Sometimes I feel the boards move when broken down to manageable sizes also. Do you guys just deal with it or try to flatten one side with a drum sander/planer/jointer? I have just been dealing with it as I don't have any other option; but have been seriously considering buying or building a drum sander. I also get some blade squeal from time to time, and I think its small gaps in the wood buzzing with the blade, so having one side nice and flat may help with that. The squeal doesn't hurt anything, its just wicked annoying. What do you all do?

Hey Red; you wouldn't be from/in North Dakota, would you?

Some more experimenting tonight. Scuffed the shelf liner real good before applying the glue and patterns. Decopage and Elmers Glue All worked well. Wallpaper glue not so much; much stronger hold than before, but still came loose easily. I really want that stuff to work so I may try again. I hope this is all useful to someone. Options are always good to have.

Some experimenting has been done since I started this thread. Decopage glue is a maybe. If you squeegee the pattern flat to the shelf liner enough glue is not left behind to make a secure bond. I've to try again as one of six patterns stayed put. I've not tried the Elmer's glue all I bought. If you use painters tape rather than shelf liner, Zinnser wallpaper glue works great. Brush on, gently pat the pattern into place and let dry. Very little squeeze out if you are careful; no smell; water clean up; good bonds. Its cheap too at less than $10 a quart. Probably will wait to next paycheck to get a couple more adhesives to try. Maybe rubber cement or some other contact adhesive.

Do you use the clear shelf paper under the label paper or just go straight to the wood?

What is everyone using to mitigate glue overspray? I’ve been going outside but it stains the concrete. I have been looking for a liquid glue like 3m 77 that I can apply with a brush but cannot find anything. I have tried glue sticks and cannot make them work. Decopauge glue kind of works, I need to experiment more there. So, with winter coming I need a way to spray glue -since that works best so far - and not make a mess in the house.

Find a local animal shelter - not the Humane Society, but really local (where I live we have Turtle Mountain Animal Rescue and Journey Home) - and donate the creations for fund raising sales. Or any local charity organization. We try to stay away as much as possible from the nation-wide giants. Things aren't always what they seem with them.

On potentiometers you can find the part number and sometimes value either on the bottom, around the perimeter, or around the adjuster shaft. That soft start, at least on my saw, seems surgy - that is speed up and slow down, speed up slow down; etc. It does this 3-4 times before full speed settles in.

No brushes to check in the armature as its an AC motor; I'm not sure if its cap-start or cap-run, but it has a capacitor. I replaced the several components in my Hegner's control box some time ago as I thought I had a problem. You will need some skill with a soldering iron to do this, but it's not terrible difficult. My saw is a 93 22VS, I don't know why the controller parts would be different from one variable speed to another, so check before ordering. These are the parts I ordered from DigiKey: 1 ‎1993-1229-ND‎ ‎PC16SH-07CP04-104A2020-TA‎ POT 100K OHM LINEAR Shipped By Digi-Key Electronics 2 Immediate 2.75000 $5.50 2 ‎S39KCACT-ND‎ ‎RNMF14FTC39K0‎ RES 39K OHM 1/4W 1% AXIAL Shipped By Digi-Key Electronics 2 Immediate 0.10000 $0.20 3 ‎294KXBK-ND‎ ‎MFR-25FBF52-294K‎ RES 294K OHM 1/4W 1% AXIAL Shipped By Digi-Key Electronics 2 Immediate 0.10000 $0.20 4 ‎280KXBK-ND‎ ‎MFR-25FBF52-280K‎ RES 280K OHM 1/4W 1% AXIAL Shipped By Digi-Key Electronics 2 Immediate 0.10000 $0.20 The resistors weren't bad, just got them as things are tight in there and I figured I might as well replace them as they would be in the way of replacing the potentiometer and might get damaged. The pot is the correct size and values, but it does have an 'off' click position at the very slowest speed; however, that 'off' position does nothing for the speed, it just keeps running at super slow. I doubt I have pics anymore. You may be able to repair the pot with contact cleaner and compressed air without disassembling things. I also cannot guarantee this will fix things. I'm pretty sure that the controller is a variable frequency drive and that is likely why the cost is so high. Variable frequency drives are the only correct way to control the speed of an AC motor. Hope that all helps.

Ahhhh……. I see. Best of luck with your hunt for a new camper. from what I have found the slides do tend to sag due to the unsupported span. Something to watch for if you look used. We also just swapped all our light bulbs for LED and the current dropped from 37.5 amps to 6 amps on the DC inverter. The fans don’t start immediately with the lights anymore.

After reading your post I was concerned about rebuilding the dinette seat in our camper. It *HAD* been screwed to the wall; but was no longer and I paniced a bit about having to cut screws. Fortunately it pulled out of the wall and I found them to be screwed from inside the seat to the wall. Is your slide-out sagging? Our camper is a 2016 and the slide must have at least 1/2" sag in the middle of the slide out ceiling. I'm going to put a 2x4 with an adjustable end in to brace it and push it back straight. I'm not sure the exact span, its at least 10', but that is way too much to be unsupported given the construction methods used. I'm kinda looking for a bombed out camper to turn into a mobile shop. It may take a while to find a $500ish wreck with good walls, floor, and roof to flip. I've got time though.