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rash_powder

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Everything posted by rash_powder

  1. rash_powder
    My dust collector uses a draft inducer fan from a furnace for a vacuum source. They are quite quiet, as you don't want something terribly loud in your furnace. It sits about 3 feet from my Hegner. The fan is louder than my saw is. If sound is really important to you, as it sounds, some simple sound deflectors and shields can be made to block or redirect the sound. In my case, I could quite easily stand/lean a piece of 1/4" plywood between me and my 'vac' and it would effectively block a lot of that sound. As mentioned before, though, you will likely find that the blade moving through the wood is the main noise source. I quite often cut poplar that 'sings' or shrieks horribly. Maybe swapping the table for a piece of HDPE would help with that sound, but really the easiest I have found is noise canceling ear buds (mine are JLB, not extremely expensive either) under ear muffs.
  2. rash_powder
    My Hegner was having some vibration problems. Some of the things I learned are - bolt to a good, solid, heavy bench; lube the arm bushings; blade tension seems to affect vibrations; it will vibrate at certain speeds and be dead smooth at others - i'm guessing harmonics happening and amplifying the original vibration. If your bench is stout, lube the arm bushings; if possible adjust them - my saw has grub screws to retain the bushings and they can be snugged up to take small amounts of wobble/slop out.
  3. rash_powder
    An oscillating tool would be perfect for this. I have cut sheet rock with mine, and the cut out will nearly press back into its hole. Perfect for making spot repairs and such.
  4. rash_powder
    Not sure if this is where i should post this; mods move if it needs to be please. RBI saw for sale in Grand Forks ND. $100. Not mine, nor do I know the gal. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1756640011532610/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_general&referral_story_type=general&tracking={"qid"%3A"-1743627662590982149"%2C"mf_story_key"%3A"524267056655337913"%2C"top_level_post_id"%3A"524267056655337913"%2C"commerce_rank_obj"%3A"{\"target_id\"%3A524267056655337913%2C\"target_type\"%3A6%2C\"primary_position\"%3A1%2C\"ranking_signature\"%3A8753480231469807355%2C\"commerce_channel\"%3A501%2C\"value\"%3A0.00085123153112667%2C\"upsell_type\"%3A3516%2C\"candidate_retrieval_source_map\"%3A{\"25734350809543507\"%3A805%2C\"7872263842811931\"%3A805%2C\"7988533674539099\"%3A701%2C\"25693706820276532\"%3A805%2C\"8180309635321956\"%3A701%2C\"7884512578291100\"%3A3003}%2C\"grouping_info\"%3Anull}"%2C"lightning_feed_qid"%3A"-1743628006207006122"%2C"lightning_feed_ranking_signature"%3A"5287787247908357848"}
  5. rash_powder
    Its been raining here about 2 or three days a week every week. We've actually gone a couple days without rain now so I think we are due again. Temps haven't been what they could be for this time of year - we're mid 70s most days; we've had a few upper 80s to low 90s. Those days are what I would say are gross. Unfortunately summer means outside work and go go go go go go go. Not much time to stop to scroll. Maybe in a few years.....
  6. rash_powder
    Did you make the pattern or did you find it somewhere?
  7. rash_powder
    I have seen people do it on YouTube, but they also say it is kind of sketchy and have shown examples of destroyed cutting boards. I don't quite understand the how, but the blades can catch the end grain fibers and then bad happens. That said, I feel the trick was to support everything really well and very very light passes. Alternatively, a block plane could be used. Its hand powered, and was created for the very purpose of planing end grain. Again, the little experience I have is to make as light a cut as you can.
  8. rash_powder
    I've no experience with a Jet bandsaw; however I do know Jet is a quality brand. from the pic I can see a cast iron table and a kreg (I believe, anyway) fence; as well as a nice rolly cart. I don't think you would be wrong to pursue it. Offer $100 and start negotiating from there.
  9. rash_powder
    If your local community has a spring clean up week, curb shop for old microwaves. They are pretty easy to get open. Disconnect the cap and short it with a screw driver; find the magnetron (its about a 4" cube of sheet metal). Get that out and carefully rip it open - there isn't anything that will hurt you in there. You'll find two 3.5" ceramic donut magnets. They are about 1/2" thick. They stick fantastic but can be a bit tough to get off the table sometimes. I've about a dozen of them on drill press and bandsaw.
  10. rash_powder
    I'm not sure how other table saws go together so I can't speak for them. My Craftsman contractor saw, a model 113, has wiggle in the blocks that the blade and motor and everything bolts to the table with. I squared the blade to a mitre slot, and then my fence to the mitre slot. It may not be the correct way, but thats how I have done my band saw also - made the fence square to the mitre slot and then set the tracking/drift to the fence. I don't recall where I read/saw it, but the person who relayed the info was smarter than I so I have to follow.
  11. rash_powder
    look for some alex snodgrass videos on youtube. he is the bandsaw master and can explain it far better than i can.
  12. rash_powder
    Kreg makes a nice fence for bandsaws. I have one on mine; and while I don't use the saw much when I do the fence performs as expected. I've learned the key to using a fence on the bandsaw is getting the blade to track dead straight so that there is no drift, then set the fence square to the table.
  13. rash_powder
    What I can see from the picture, it uses pinned blades. Those are typically pretty large; I'm thinking too big for puzzles. Larger decorations that can handle the larger hole required for the blade would be ok.
  14. rash_powder
    Placing a piece of packing tape across the opening in your scrollsaw table may help - you're trying to make a zero clearance insert for your blade. That will allow the wood to be supported right up against the blade and hopefully mitigate most of your breakout. As mentioned early, a bottom piece of scrap to again support the wood fibers. Maybe heavy paper like tag board or that contact paper shelf liner. I've had no troubles peeling that from some delicate scroll work. It will possibly dull the blade a bit faster, but the paper or liner is much softer and thinner than the wood so I'm not sure that it would be much of a problem. All the options I can think of are centered around extending your table to within a few tenths of a millimeter from the blade or supporting the wood from the bottom of the stack; its just a matter of how you do that. A sacrificial hardboard table is another option. Best of luck finding a solution!
  15. rash_powder
    I use the scrap or 'negative' for placement/alignment when cutting strings of text. So sometimes things get a bit long. Other times the item I am cutting is just a bit or lot bigger than what I can comfortable pivot around the blade while sitting.
  16. rash_powder
    The darker wood being lost is something I hadn't thought of, but makes sense. I have been using poplar, but it can sometimes be difficult to get clear white. The mixed colors feel vintage to me and I like that. That said, I'm thinking I may give aspen a go for ornaments this year. Its always clear white, seems to cut a bit easier than poplar, and doesn't seem to be cupped near as much as the poplar is as well. I can find pretty good quality aspen locally so I may not order online.
  17. rash_powder
    The current large project is a logo for my father in law, and the text on these sort of things can get quite long. As I said, I like to keep the negative to position the letters correctly. I ended up just cutting the board in half between two letters and making a reference cut near the partition. When it comes to assembly I will find some paper or tape that fills the reference cut and use that to shim the letters back to the proper spacing. If I were to lose about 50 lbs it probably wouldn't be an issue.
  18. rash_powder
    I have in the past had to cut parts from larger or longer pieces of material; either because it was the most effective use of the material or because the project needed to be that way. Example, ornaments nested tightly on a 5 1/2" wide board, or a string of text that I need the negative/waste material to position the letters correctly. These longer pieces give me troubles when rotating them for cuts - they always seem to swing into me and I have to really stretch or awkwardly maneuver to make things work. How do you all handle situations like this? I know spiral blades are an option, but they don't leave as nice a cut as a flat blade. Thanks!
  19. rash_powder
    Hello all! I’m trying to be proactive this year and start working Christmas ornaments with more than a month to get them all done. This year I’m thinking I will order stock from Ocooch rather than going to the local box store. I have been using 1/4” poplar; but thinking I want to go to 1/8” ash or similar. Regardless of species, will 1/8” be thick enough to last? I don’t want to make things so fragile they break if bumped or knocked around. Most of what I make comes from Steve Goode’s site. A lot of his patterns call for ply and I just don’t feel right using that. thanks in advance!
  20. rash_powder
    Sorry for a bit of lag in replying. I wouldn't say the machine is constantly running. There is always blade changes, moving to a new cutting hole, things like that; and a few stops for the bathroom. Otherwise, yes, I sit down at the saw and try to get as much done as I can in the 2-3 hours available to me after I get home from work and have the house chores done. Unfortunately, a character flaw I have is procrastination. I can't deal with Christmas ornaments in July, so I leave them until winter. Then it's usually sometime in November when I start making them. Last year was 30 and not enough; so going for 40 this year. Add to the procrastination a full time job and that in winter I usher at a theatre and a hockey arena - hockey every other weekend and theatre is absolute popcorn schedule, usually 2-3 days a month. So typically no free weekends and a hectic schedule means do as much as possible in as short a time as possible. They all get made, done well, and everyone loves them so it must be working??
  21. rash_powder
    After solving the bulk of my vibration troubles I found bench weight and flex were the main problems. I've noticed too that if the blade isn't tightened the way the saw likes there will be vibrations too.
  22. rash_powder
    Typically I go a couple hours at a time. Pretty sure there was one project I sat at the saw for 8 hours minimum straight. I know I had to go to the bathroom a couple times, but then it was back to it. Depending on the project, its whatever I can get done in an evening, so about 2 maybe 3 hours at a time with only bathroom stops.
  23. rash_powder
    Mine looks like any other dust extractor from the top, pvc and loc-line ran around the saw. I used 3/4" loc-line, the threads match up to 3/4" pvc. The bottom is here - bottom extractor I slit a piece of 3/4" pvc, heated it with a heat gun, and un-rolled it as best I could. Re-heat and clamp between to boards to cool flat. I then notched it to fit the pivot in the back of the saw table, bent it to sort of fit the front, then marked to drill a hole for the blade and loc line to connect. In the pic the loc-line goes into a 3/4" pvc T that I cut up and heated and shaped. That has since broken off - the hot glue failed me; so I just pushed the loc-line end into the hole. Its still working fine as far as I can tell.
  24. rash_powder
    I have loc-line and pvc dust system on mine. On top the loc-line is flexible to put right next to the blade; on the bottom I hot glued it to a custom plate I made to have thru-table dust collection. It works very well.
  25. rash_powder
    Hot glue works great. It will come off too, just takes a little work.
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