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rash_powder

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Everything posted by rash_powder

  1. rash_powder
    I like mine; although i don't use it in a year as much as you would in a month. I have been using Honda Moly 60 Paste to lube the bearings. If you look up and read a little bit about this sort of grease and Molybdenum Disulphide, you will find it will lubricate after the carrier oil is burned off and up through about 700 degrees f. Way overkill for our needs; which to me makes it a perfect fit as it decreases time between lubes. I've made a sacrificial table for mine as I don't have that nice insert in the table. The bump stop has been moved so the upper arm has more clearance. That was probably the single greatest mod to the saw. Makes getting parts in and out easier. Thats all I know. I think you will really like your new Hegner.
  2. rash_powder
    Any saw that uses parallel arms to move the blade up and down, will move that blade ever so slightly front to rear. The longer the arms, the less that motion will be. This is because the arms each pivot around a point, that is located the same distance from the ends, making the arms sweep out a circle. The two arms work together to keep the blade oriented vertical, but the arc makes the blade move fore and aft slightly. Longer arms will have a greater arc, so less fore-aft; shorter arms will have a smaller arc so more fore-aft. I hope that makes sense. Its kinda hard to describe.
  3. rash_powder
    I had some bad vibrations problems that I solved with good, solid structure and mass. My original stand looked like an I beam made from 3/4" BB plywood. The top flexed too much and caused wicked vibrations at certain speeds. My new stand has a top made from 2x4 laminated together butcher block style. It doesn't flex and is heavy. I built a cabinet frame from 2x4 and skinned it with 1/4 ply. Its on casters for ease of movement. If you go the 4 caster/leg route be dead certain they are even or use adjustable feet. Its heavy enough and rigid enough that no more vibrations occur; and the cabinet underneath has a big storage space and a drawer for holding blades.
  4. rash_powder
    There are some excellent videos on youtube on how to resaw with a hand saw and finish the board with a hand plane. A lot more sweat involved, and definitely a bit of a learning curve to getting a good sharp edge on a hand plane and setting one up; but there is also a learning curve to resawing on the bandsaw. I can sometimes get it to work near perfect, and other times fail miserably. Haven't worked out the trick yet.
  5. rash_powder
    The outer hole gives a longer stroke versus a shorter stroke from the inner hole. I'v tried the inner hole to reduce vibrations before I built a new stand and it didn't really help. I'm not sure what you would need a short stroke for; maybe a new scroller would use it to slow the cutting rate.
  6. rash_powder
    Resaw them and make tea candle holders from Steve Goode's site; or if you have a lathe make pens from them.
  7. rash_powder
    I have a Hegner that the manual says I should oil the arm pivots at a certain interval. I bought a tube of Honda Moly 77 paste for my motorcycle and use it on the saw as well. The absolute thinnest film of this stuff on the bushings is all that is needed. Its is super slippery and remains that way up into the 700* F range - when the carrier burns away the moly is still a lubricant. Its a smallish tube and kinda spendy, but if you only used it for a scroll saw you would only ever buy one tube in your life.
  8. rash_powder
    I have a laser engraver and have been kicking around the idea of using it to 'attach' patterns to my materials. Just lightly burn the image on and take it to the saw and cut. Maybe a bit stronger of a burn to leave a small valley to help the blade follow. Has anyone tried this? Might save on tape and such; I do hate the spray glue. Down side so far would be cost but it can be used for other projects so not sure thats a minus. Thoughts?
  9. rash_powder
    I once read that schedule 80 pipe is the correct size stuff for dust collectors. Its not to code anymore so hard to find; but apparantly pool installers/maintainers use it. I've never verified this though as I use a piece of 4" drier flex stuff. It lasts me about 1 year with winter being what kills it. The cold makes it brittle so keep it warm.
  10. rash_powder
    I am pretty sure Hegner uses capacitor start motors like what are found in furnaces, air conditioners, etc. These motors use a variable frequency drive to control there speed correctly. The router speed controls are generally variable voltage. Its been a while since I looked into all this; but that router control will likely limit the power of the saw.
  11. rash_powder
    What you see is a Pegas #3 MG that I pulled from my waste pail to set things up. I think I made a 1/16" hole, only through one side. The grub screw isn't shown, but its in there with enough blue Loc-Tite gel for a dozen or so bolts. I sanded the mating ends of the cap screw and grub screw at work as flat and square as I could. This hasn't been tested yet, but the cap screw provides enough leverage that I don't think I will need tools to tighten it up. There is a full 8mm of engagement surface, so hopefully I won't need tools, but if I do, a cheap hex key to leave at my saw will be more than adequate. Hopefully #2 will be drill more squarely on the first try. I want to make another two or three so that I can have several blades ready to go. If I could locally source an 8mmx1.25x15mm socket head cap screw that would be glorious; but the 20mm I have should be fine. Will see in a day or two!
  12. rash_powder
    A hand held test fit seemed like it will be good to go. I put two holes in, the first one was a wee bit crooked. Its a bit of a pain to file a square to the world flat on the corner. A center punch is definitely necessary as was a very light touch when starting the drill in. The Loc-tite is drying so will try it prob friday. I parts for another today.
  13. rash_powder
    I did get a replacement laser module from ortur; but i have not yet three weeks later tried it again. I was using lightburn.
  14. rash_powder
    So, with the seeds of an idea from Rockytime, I went on a parts hunt to see if I could ‘make’ a clamp with as little machine work as possible. The parts in the pic are what I found. The coupling nut is a bit loos up and down but will work fine. A shorter cap screw would be nice, but it’s what they (Menards) had and I can cut it.
  15. rash_powder
    The local Menards here stocks 3/4” ply, birch I think, with a UV resistant finish already applied. It looks very much like your picture.
  16. rash_powder
    Maybe mix wood glue with water until appropriately thinned and paint the project with that first? If the wood is just sponging up sealer it needs to be ‘plugged’ first. The glue should still take a stain, just not as well as the wood would have.
  17. rash_powder
    Rocky, thanks for the info. Will give me something to do in between the 1000 other tasks I have. It’s the life of a home owner I guess! Again, thank you much. I can see having several of these with blades loaded and ready to go being a great help
  18. rash_powder
    Would you be able to measure the length and diameter and length that I can make a couple? Or a link to where I could buy them? They seem like an improvement
  19. rash_powder
    Find yourself a lab jack on Amazon. Handy little giz that can support quite a bit of weight and relatively low cost. You could set it on the floor of your laser and raise/lower the project to the focal point. They are like a scissor jack.
  20. rash_powder
    I have a 20w Ortur LM2. The laser module died after maybe 2 weeks of very little use. Ortur is sending a new one, but it is a process and the last email I got was maybe 1.5-2 weeks ago that they would ship me a replacement. Nothing since. If it never comes I guess I will have to find a replacement on my own. They are out there. You may have a different experience, but from what I have gleaned from Ortur and Lightburn forums and a few other locations, this is a very common occurence.
  21. rash_powder
    I guess I didn’t really think that other furniture and such was glued together and finished with BLO and such. It’s been glued together now for at least a month. Hopefully it is fully cured. im not looking for an amazing finish or anything my like that. I just want to keep oil drips and such from permanently staining it. It will be getting several coats of thinned BLO when I get that far. thanks all!
  22. rash_powder
    I am building a little work bench for my scrollsaw, and the too surface is the butcher block type. It’s 15 2x4 glued together. will teak oil or thinned BLO affect the glue? I used the blue Titebond. I’m not looking for something super amazing, just a something to keep it from staining so bad from oil and grease when I live the saw as well as the occasional touching from dirty hands. Thanks!
  23. rash_powder
    I have been noticing while cutting 3/4” poplar, that regardless of the blade I choose a cutting across the grain is SO much easier than cutting with the grain. is there a reason for this or have I a technique problem?
  24. rash_powder
    The single greatest thing you can do for ease of use is to move the arm bump stop on the back down about an inch. That nets you so much extra space that I can generally see the blade and the hole I want quite easily. it is a pain to cut, drill, and tap cast iron though.
  25. rash_powder
    I will have to dig through my pdf’s and find the manual I downloaded. There’s only 3 bolts so I didn’t think there would be a torque pattern.
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