teachnlearn

Its the basic thread design with the tread angle and number of threads per inch. Wood vice has course a few threads to work fast and tighten down. Finer threads with an angle are going to take more turns to do the adjustment. More than likely the manufacturer offered a cheap option for the designers to jump at and here it is. Unless someone has some tap and dies and wants to recut new threads with a new bolt/ handle it's going to be some rigging. Even cutting new treads are going to be experimental on size and thread count. Locknuts, split washers, 'jamb nuts', Loctite. RJF

I remember back when barber shops would put reverse clocks on the wall to be seen in the mirror. RJF

One of these help with dimming your light? RJF https://www.amazon.com/s?k=plug+in+led+light+dimmer&rh=p_72%3A2661618011&s=relevanceblender&dc&ascsubtag=1ba00-01000-org00-win10-dsk00-nomod-us000-gatwy-feature-SEARC&qid=1556327904&rnid=2661617011&tag=amz-mkt-fox-us-20&ref=sr_nr_p_72_1

NICE. Hope it works well for you. With the lid folding up I wonder when it gets in the way and you cut it off. RJF

Type of lights, ie old blub, CFL, led, fluorescent, softness or freq of light, direction and the surfaces it bounces off of can give people headaches. I get headaches from strong fluorescent and either stay out of the room using them or turn them off and use a different source light. In our near future, we hope to move into a house and I've played with shop designs. The shop lights have fluorescent and bright led, which I would test one before buying a bunch to light a whole shop. The design I see have groups of lights overhead, and very bright. Kind of going outside in the bright sun all day and working. Some grab sunglasses. Grab a few table lights around the home that you use and don't get headaches and light the scrollsaw without the mag light. Get a pack of assorted colored construction 'a lot sold in kids crafts', paper and tape some on the scroll table. See if a color knocks out a glare. Just offering solutions that might work, no one will work for any persons work style or eyesight. RJF

Lens for microscopes, telescopes, and magnifiers are all about the quality and the price will go up fast. For the high powered massive telescopes. The lens and mirrors can be ground and polished for years which carries a heavy price. Some amateurs that use a microscope and especially telescopes go into an added 'hobby of designing and making their own lens and mirrors to escape the high lens cost. The manufactures reputation is going the be a big factor. My use and interest in magnification were from my electronic engineering days, and a little nowadays with old eyes. I was involved in automation or the more common word of robotics. Cameras that inspected food, or meds, or parts were very high quality and had a high price from industrial supplies. I relied on engineers in our company and their engineers to get the right camera, cable camera, lens, autofocus, auto zoom the right lighting. Once these specs were worked out, we designed from there. Again there is a whole field of design around the lens of type, magnification, resolution, compound, simple, use of mirrors. I posted before, double check and find the magnification or range of magnification for yourself, then search our reputable manufacturers and distributors to buy from. There are always the fake, counterfeit manufacturers and suppliers to sell a knockoff. How high the quality and how high the lens is always going to be on how well a person sees. Even with script eyeglasses you now have a compound magnifier that will have its own properties of how far the first lens is from the scrollsaw and you are from the magnifier. Then fire sawdust is going to vary the image. Something that was offered in industrial camera designs of coating and varied continuous cleaning to keep the image crisp for the project. RJF

Our kitchen counter doesn't have much of a lip. I use C clamps with a little padding to clamp a custom wooden box to the counter. The lower part clamps the counter, the top 'shelf' is used to attach kichen accessories, meat cutter, pasta roller..... the metal c clamps are rock solid and then I can clamp other things that use less quality clamps. Simple screw up, glue up box with enough room for the c clamps to get into the lower shelf and the gadgets clamp to the top. The box sits ON the counter. The same thing can be used around the shop. RJF

Consider the lighting in the shop and your home, computer. Frequency of light and type of light has a lot to do with eyestrain. My wife suffers from light triggered migraines. We live in a place with blackout curtains. For years I could see the flicker of fluorescent light. Haven't used one in years and used the old bulbs with dimmers. The light intensity can be a problem too. I did a lot of study at one time for my wife, cause she suffered from migraines teaching school. Consulting a 'Lighting Engineer' he gave me a brand of fluorescent bulbs to replace everyone in the room at our cost. At least she didn't have migraines in the classroom. Science has studied the effects of blue light on computer screens. I looked at this years and years ago and science has advanced. At least I found there is such a thing as 'lighting engineers' that do it for a living. Type of lights, freq. intensity 'LUEMS', are all figured on this, some optical and eye MDS may know this field also. It's vast, but I believe it may be one solution that has an answer. My wife and I are semi-retired living in a dark room so I stopped the research for now. RJF

Marked the site. The whole problem with any general post of who uses what magnifier is everybody's own eyesight. I finally had to use a software magnifier on my computer screen this year. I use a 3x for reading and a 7x to examine the cracks and solder joints on circuit boards. Scroll sawing would be different magnifiers for a simple pattern or complex pattern with fine lines. A 20-year-old wouldn't use anything and everyone will be higher, lower or maybe the same as mine. Astigmatism and other eye conditions are all going to be variables. There are racks of glasses at Walmart and others and simple trials will help to get a 'power' which may have to be converted. One thing, by cheap, cheap test glasses, eyepieces, then upgrade to the nice spring magnifying light/ headpiece of your choice rather than chase expensive mags that have to be shipped back and battle refunds. RJF

Love it! Maybe we can find a cheap electron microscope to use for scroll sawing. With a 9 year project, your cut out to do the really detailed complex patterns. RJF

Use to be a carnival 'game' that was an air hose powered machine bb gun. They had a paper target with a solid red circle. Everyone shot up the red but there was always some left. If they shot all the red they won. The secret was to shot the outside the circle and cut out the inner red. So it becomes academic are we scrolling out the circle and figuring the circumference or trying to shot the surface area? I'm ex-military, when the gun doesn't work, use explosives and blow the gevies out of it. 18.85 inches would be 18.85/.45= 41.888888... Now its time for a group shot. Or someone brings the explosives. RJF

Til we can build up funds to move and funds for the down payment on a house, I'm in an apartment. Heres my shop for now. RJF

I like your donut project. Do you scroll-cut out the whole donut and the inner hole and cook them, or do you cook them and cut out the hole? RJF

I'm not sure of what creates the led light. If its a plugin lamp a led dimmer plugin could be built. IF ITS a box/ assembly I would have to tear it apart. RJF

You have a scroll saw. Use a pattern and cut it down. Just go to the patter request forum with a picture of your bullet and ask them to create a .333333 pattern. RJF

A 45 cal guns bullet is .45 inches. For a 6 inch circle, you're going to have to fire it 13..333333.......... times. I did mathematics for a living, now I stare at computer screens just waiting for that question! RJF

This is getting surreal, 40 replies on cutting a circle. If you use a 50 cal gun. Which has a bullet size of 1/2 inch and shoot it 12 times into plywood, you will get a 6-inch circle. If there are things behind it you get the bonus of them getting a 6-inch circle too. RJF

One suggestion to look at is upright display cabinets. Designed in pairs that lock together with suitcase latches. These can be stock, transported, rolled out, opened. Then closed, rolled back to the car, load and gone. These can be transported with a Harbor Freight Trailer. We used a 4 x 8 model, put sides on it and towed it with a little car. A note on their trailer lights. Have a friend with electric knowledge or Youtube, help put in a better light. They have cheap wiring, cheap quick connectors that will give you endless trouble. The trailers are rated class 3 which are the lightest. Wheels can be put on the bottom to roll a pair. I like the range of 4 to 6-inch casters cause the little ones don't roll well. The small caster hangs up on gravel, and forget it if its hard ground or grass. RJF

7. If this is a hobby and you go for fun, which a business should be fun or its time to get out. Some of these can be used to break even rather than a lost fee for the show. The points above are a very small few of what marketing does. I got a few 400-page books in storage and an external hard drive with gigs of info. AND BEFORE YOU ASK, my wife packed it, SOMEWHERE in our past move in a storage locker. I study and designed various ways for us to go to farmers markets, but there was a problem with our physical energy and my own problem with heat that keeps me from doing it at this time. MAYBE, MAYBE there is an indoor market in our future. RJF

When I started my first business, I was very unsure of everything having to do with business. My background is science, and they required the Jr. version of economics, which I barely remember. Got loads of small business books, small business accounting, and marketing. When my Wife and I got hurt I started another search of what we could do as a business, not do, modify. Looked into farmers markets, flea markets. I spent time looking at books, forums thinking about how we could set up, transport, break down. In the end up, I didn't go that route but learn a lot along the way. First, everyone's product is different so there WILL be different ways, styles so these tips come from a vast source, but some will apply, some won't due to your style sales or product. 1. Go to grocery stores, department stores with a different view of being a business 'person' and not shopping. Grocery stores rent their shelves to sellers. If you don't know this, it will help your own buying habits. The middle shelves are prime rental and are in the shoppers' prime eyesight level and grab level. They ARE the highest price areas. Check low shelves compared to the middle shelves. 2. The stores set isles and paths to steer consumers through the store to what they want to sell. Those middle isle cardboard stacking shelves to stop the shopper to take notice of the product. Extra rent space, extra rent price. Drives us crazy in wheelchairs, when we have to go down another aisle and go back up the aisle to get to the other side of the display. Frame signs in front of stores are the same thing. This works IF the farmers market allows. 3. Look at department stores and grocery stores. Products are displayed in stacks, or again up in front view. Look at every detail of these stores. Background cloth, generally solid and contrasting to the color of the product. Cheap stacking of boxes, cans, buckets can do the same thing. Then cover with a solid fabric, bed sheet that doesn't show through. Study how the store is organized, ordered, number of products, how they can be readily viewed. Go through multiple stores and look at every display, take pictures if permitted, take picture of farmers markets and ask, BUT realize you may be duplicating someone that doesn't know Marketing. Walk through stores and realize there are highly paid professionals that set up the displays, the color, the placement of departments, the path of the customer. These stores don't get sales by chance, they study impulse buys, sales, grow or decrease of every product sale. 4. Make the purchase as easy as possible. Overseas it's accepted to negotiate the price. In the US they expect to find the price easily or they walk. In one factoid I found in many reports a consumer will decide to buy or not in 10 to 20 secs or walk. If you want to go to talk to people and not really sell what you have and not label the price, those waiting will walk. 5. This is a hard one to do. Don't overcrowd your table or display. Its called buys confusion and is found in other fields, even mine of electronics. If there are too many things, too many choices a person has to start mentally comparing, rating what they like, what they don't. This is a fine science with every business holding their own data of how many and how long to sell at what price until they change it. You have to do as much work for the buyer as you can and make the sale from the pick to ringing up as smooth as possible. Want a simple demonstration? Take your wife to a restaurant with a massive menu and see how long it takes to select a meal. Now go to MC Donalds, Number 1, 2, 3 meal? The entire meal is packaged as a quick choice. 6. If you have samples of your work, have the sale prepackaged. At the time of paying have another choice. Waiters at Perkins Resturants were taught at the end of the meal to walk up and ask, 'Would you like Cherry or Apple Pie?". Set pick. NOT Would you like dessert and I will get the menu to pick. This is your choice of the second pick of ONE GROUP RIGHT BY YOU, for a few dollars lower. Again make the selection accessible, 'RIGHT BY YOUR SALES POINT', and easy to pick in a group. Don't go run for the 100-page selection book. Studies have found when the customer is saying they are in the mindset of paying so more sales are added at the register. Add the personalization right there at the sale. More proof, when do you get hit with the donation to Disabled Vets? That one is asked of both me and my wife that are disabled vets and we never hear from them. Who gets that? Look at the rows of stuff by the Walmart register, its the final impulse, final grab and buy. 6. Constantly look at the large businesses, how they sell, setup, EVERYTHING THEY DO. They are in the business to make as much money as they can. Study their ads. These people hire high paid firms to consult on every aspect of making money. They even study the lighting, the smells, the feel of products. By studying HOW they do it rather than shopping you going to learn what they do to get people to buy. Most things are planned. People even sense when a store isn't doing well, cause everything they know is normal goes into disarray, cause they grab more money then they should function or go broke. More and more people don't go to the store and its gone.

Dipoter to mag is Dipoter/4 plus 1. ie 3/4= .75 plus 1=1.75 Dipoter 5/4= 1.25 plus 1 = 2.25 and on and on..... RJF

Working on electronics the parts are small and it takes magnification when looking for any fine cracks in the circuit board. I've used various magnifying over the years from microscopes to jeweler eyepieces, headsets, light with mag. There have been times in the field or at home that I didn't have a shop table. I have resorted to reading glasses of different magnifying powers. Sometimes I have even put them in front of my prescription glasses. No vibration, use the lights available, light, comfortable, cheap and fast to change power mag. One source of many. https://www.readers.com/ Pdf, the idea of the power of glasses or other mags. RJF Reading Chart Provided by Magnifying Aids at www.magnifyingaids.pdf

I did the same thing for years which stuck me in the circle of either finding a collection of things to fit a pattern or force the pattern to fit circles I had on hand. Bought a couple of quality compasses and that did it. With software that will create any size circle, I know I can create any circle to fit the pattern I'm designing. I still experiment with paper and cardboard to create models of what I want which I still go to compasses. Its a hands-on model design that I play with and look at to get a good idea of where I'm going with a complex project. RJF

When I used a scroll saw in the 70s reference was a magazine and a few pattern books. The technique was trial and error. Since having more time I've been watching Youtube, and reading sites like this. I remember SDgood had a Youtube on circles and his take on it and looked it up. RJF

SDgood tried his solution with a free download program. RJF http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2010/01/scroll-saw-blade-tension-software.html