teachnlearn
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Everything posted by teachnlearn
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Since you work with wood; Do you have a specific knock on wood sign, specific piece of wood or do you grab any old piece to knock on? RJF
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Somebody going to rig a cargo trailer and put all the scroll saws in it. Then they can travel the country and everyone can try out the different scroll saws. RJF
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There is a small spot welder used to weld strips to watch batteries and battery cells to make battery packs. RJF https://www.amazon.com/battery-Welding-Machine-Charging-Function/dp/B01MF8LKYK/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=battery+welder&qid=1561497438&s=hi&sr=1-7 Some hobby techs. use these to make solar panels. They buy solar cells and weld a group, then another, then another, then weld the groups together to make a panel, then make a panel and mount the cells, then weld some more to create connects to connect to the next panel. RJF
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When considering anything outdoor recognize that the sun gives off UV. It fades carpets, fades car vinyl and plastic and dried it out till it cracks. Most things outdoors have some problem with UV. Grabbing a clear coat will keep mold and rain off of projects, but it the coating doesn't have the additives in it to take care of UV, its going to go right through and age the project. When looking at outdoor paints and sealers almost all will have additives for UV or the coating is in trouble when the sun hits it. RJF
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Most portable power tools at used intermittently. Drill a hole, drive a screw. I've seen a new battery lawn mowers with 64 volt batteries. That's going to up the cost of any scroll saw. Unless its a large deep cycle battery I think the constant drain would be a shorter time then most would want. Also, scroll saws aren't exactly in the portable or onsite category. Don't think a single carpenter would toss a battery powered scroll saw in their truck. There has to be a demand for a mgr to design and retool to make money. Other than craft shows off hand I can't think of many uses that would demand a portable scroll saw. RJF
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I think the highest complaint that comes up is the blade clamp. Would think the manufactures to take it to heart, design and heavily test them. Somebody is not reading their feedback. RJF
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Wondered about vibration, shifting during work. I'm not seeing it here so I will plan it into the shop. Thank you. Have an enclosed cargo trailer that I'm planing on using for an offsite shop. From the same feedback, I'm going to use wheel on stands and anchor machines to etrack. When we have time off, I'm planning on making bed, cabinets, sinks on wheel and do an instant conversion to an RV. Planning on toilet/ shower installed permanently to front for shop use and RV use. If I need empty cargo space for moving, I can pull the units. RJF
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Who uses a metal stand and who builds their stand. Do you put casters on it? Looking at two car garages and extra property. Start in the garage and eventually build a small shop. Will be designing a research/ workshop. Considering building cabinets and putting them on locking wheels 3 to 5 inch. Considering moving to clean and shift either to wall or rearrange. Since my back is not good, considering wheels on each. Scroll saw isn't the top of weight comparing other shop equipment. Anyone used or using locked casters and find a problem or would never use casters and stay with a set stand underneath the scroll saw? Have a craftsman contractors scroll saw so I will use that for a while, but it doen't have a stand. RJF
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If price was no object I would like a scroll saw that folds small for storage, automatically puts in the blades I request by voice. Warns me when I'm about to make a mistake, is dead silent, has a beer tap and sings a few hallelujahs when I complete a project. RJF
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Worked in various industries. Worked for a brand company for appliance, HVAC, Window air conditioners. Have had instances of the washer not working. The husband unplugged it and used the outlet. He forgot to plug the washing machine back in. YEP, washer was dead from not being plugged in. I wouldn't have charged them anything, but the company charged a hefty fee for onsite service for the min hour. Another is the breaker or fuse going for the outlet. Plug something else in and make sure you have electricity. I've see cars and electronics repaired by plugging in parts till it works. Since its not known whether its the switch or control board. Order both, replace both. Your saving the cost of shipping the machine, add repair price and your starting with a new. Just a thought. Compare the repair to a new machine. Sometimes the repairs, service cost half of the machine. Add half more and you have a new machine. RJF
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No idea, it was posted and offered on a forum. The pattern looks old and tattered and I referred it. If it is, guess it could be deleted, but the source still have it. RJF
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Kind of like a rifle, look down the barrel from behind. RJF
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But you can time your shot. RJF
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Posted below the forum I posted RJF Thanks all. It was easier than I thought it might be. Made it with some 3/4" poplar. Here's the scan Bob. The big monkeys' nose isn't cut all the way. It's just a kerf running most of the way, stopping short of making the full cut. 1/16" drill for the little guys' eyes and 1/8" for the big muthas eyes.
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Drill counter sink a wooden ball on to the back of the cue and drill the 1 3/8 insert hole. There's a way, There's a way. RJF
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Just for the heck of it . Use a can of air, ie dust off and blow out everything. You can use the rest of the dust off on the keyboard, or car heat vent, or the cooling fan for the desk top computer. Unplug the machine. Since you probably don't own a can of electronics cleaner use a small bottle of Everclear, 'STRAIGHT DRINKING ALCOHOL' and pour a little over the switch, breaker. I recommend this rather than rubbing alcohol that has a chemical in it to make it undrinkable. The chemical may react with parts. What you do with the rest of the Everclear is up to you, but I wouldn't drive. I think if its not working your going to get to the point someone is going to have to pull it apart and troubleshoot it by putting a meter on it. If I was nearby I would stop over, but we are a bit apart from each other. RJF
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Watch face would work fine. RJF
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Since your doing clocks on billiard balls add the option of the clock at the back of the cue stick. A continued billiard idea. RJF
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Tried to open a link with the Cherokee listing and failed. I think this is it. RJF https://www.cherokeewood.com/
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Next time ask for the telescopic shop. RJF
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I've had Dick Blick around for years and years. They started in 1911 and sold in 1947. Used in colleges, schools, artist. Have had catalogs from them for years and years. Its like thumbing through the old Sears catalog for art. They have good quality supplies, some will be found at your local craft store and and many specialized. I would say a high part of their supplies is high quality, higher price, though there are the few new tryouts that fail and disappear. if you want a scrape one shot brush, buy whatever. If your looking for something that last for years, they supply it. Art is always something I find to be pricey, so its a continuing pick and choose what works to invest in. Been tinkering with art for years since I love to work with my hands, but don't have formal training so I will never claim I'm an artist. For those that like hands on, they have light tables to trace patterns by hand. https://www.dickblick.com/search/?q=light table&unbxd_x=0&unbxd_y=0&unbxd_sp_cs=UTF-8&unbxd_s=unbxd Worth thumbing through occasionally for techniques, ideas. https://www.dickblick.com/ They have the paper catalogs in categories of school, commercial, individual. Download or have sent. RJF https://www.dickblick.com/requests/bigbook/
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Group of these fixative sprays used in art. One is for keeping pencil drawings from smearing. A light coat spray that may work if you trying to keep thickness down. RJF https://www.dickblick.com/products/krylon-satin-finish-spray-fixative/
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Your looking at basic 'circuit testing'. A simple trouble light will work plugged in. NOT FOR A BEGINNER IF YOUR NOT FAMILIAR WITH ELECTRICITY. Process is hooking one probe to one side of the electric line, then start placing it on the other side to see where the electricity stops. Beginning of the switch, other side of the switch with it on. One side of breaker, other side of breaker. One side of motor other side of motor. Where the electricity stops you found your part. If the motor is frozen, it could still have electricity go through, but out of elimination it will be the only part. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=test+lighthttps://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_3?ascsubtag=1ba00-01000-org00-win10-dsk00-nomod-us000-gatwy-feature-SEARC&keywords=circuit+tester&qid=1560790734&s=gateway&sr=8-3+120v&crid=2REDT5MJF7AN2&sprefix=test+light+120%2Caps%2C214&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_14 Safer approach is using a test meter and putting battery voltage through each side, either listening to a beep or looking at the meter. https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_3?ascsubtag=1ba00-01000-org00-win10-dsk00-nomod-us000-gatwy-feature-SEARC&keywords=circuit+tester&qid=1560790734&s=gateway&sr=8-3 Electricians and Techs train with people til they can do the job safely. With some youtube videos you might pull it off, though there is a reason all the electronics has labels, DO NOT OPEN, AUTHORIZED TECHS. RJF
