teachnlearn
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By the way, 'MOST' home wire is 12 gauge. 'MOST' homes have 15 or 20 amp breakers. that breaker will normally be used for a group of wall outlets, not expecting all to be pulling 15 amps. If something is pulling more than a separate breaker is put in, and the right wire gauge run for that item. IE dryer, furnace, AC. Be careful running your own line. Its worth having a lic electrician to do it. If its too much, you may be able to help pull wire, drill holes and drop the cost as a helper. When a house sells and its found a line wasn't run right, wrong gauge, no permit, its going to cost again to pull it and have a electrician run it. For extensions, there are charts on the amount of amps and the length. The extension cord itself acts as resistance and starts heating up. To much pull and its a melted extension or fire. Especially electric heaters which are pulling 15 amps already. Any work I do I use a 10 gauge extension cord. Its normally 12 gauge in the wall, so a 10 gauge is one size larger. Since my past profession was electrical engineer, I would be very embarrassed starting a fire with an extension cord, not knowing my wire gauges. RJF
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Your using the word ' constrict '. Recognize as a hose is restricted the motor runs harder, using more energy or amperage. Put your hand over the hose of a vacuum and listen to the motor, it will be screaming. Its gone from moving air to trying to create so many inches of vacuum. Not designed for that, which is what compressors do in refrigerators. The way your stating it, it breaks the laws of thermodynamics. The graph has to have a set group to and show two variables. Same brand vac, same size hose, same wire gauge, no extensions. By looking at the graph and looking at a third variable, ie hose size won't work. The graph shows more amps, more air flow, less amps less air flow. More work, more air flow. Less work, less air flow. To look at hose size either the x axis or y axis would be labeled with the hose size. What happens when I change one thing x to the other thing y. How fast do I go, x over a amount of time y. Can't look at this graph, and decide what happens to speed when I change weight. The graph you pasted shows two things, Amps and CFM. There is no information on the graph for hose size. Just not there. RJF By the way, a few books have been written on reading graphs and misuse. With politics comparisons are common and graph misuse is very common. A very real problem from either the person creating the graph doing things like this intentionally or not. The readers see graphs and either haze over or take the information as fact when the graph is wrong. One common trick is exactly the above problem; using a graph that doesn't show what they are trying to prove.RJF
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Still got room in front of the toilet and under the bed. RJF
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Don't see a mess. I see a working shop. RJF
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Check your room size. If you want electric, look at your electric bill and check how much per kilowatt, or call the company. A kilowatt is 1000 watts per hour. Find the electric heater and download the manual from the buy site or the mgr support. Look for watts. If it shows amps, multiply that times 120 and you have watts. Divide by 1000 and multiply by the cost, usually something like 6 cents .06. That will give you the cost per hour. Average portable heater is 1500 watts / 1000 is 1.5. Multiply times the cost, for this 6 cents. 1.5 x .06 equals .09 or 9 cents an hour. RJF BTU, ROOM SIZE https://www.calculator.net/btu-calculator.html
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Here's a few thousand or million words. Shop layout helps on thinking out your 'Work flow'. For instance people bring wood in and break it down. Then edge it, then plan it, then cut it to finish length. Assemble, Finish. Each step is in one area. The shop can be laid out straight line, in coves that four areas are accessible, like standing in the middle of a square or even triangle, which many kitchen work flows are setup. Look though pictures at the size of the shops, storage, machine usage. Some put the work bench in line with the table saw and use the bench as added length to the table saw. Entire articles and books have been written.RJF https://www.google.com/search?q=workshop+layout+pictures&tbm=isch&source=univ&client=firefox-b-1-d&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi-sYK-hejjAhWLbc0KHeQrDKYQsAR6BAgIEAE
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Air conditioning duct works with a lot of formulas. To figure the cfm, friction, size duct...... One idea used is a large main 'trunk' line, say a '20 inch duct', which then has smaller branches, say 4 inch duct' off of it. As the duct goes through the building, its also losing energy from the friction of the ducts. Longer is going to effect the suction also. Its a balance of the size duct and length of the system, and how many ducts in the system. There are computer software just for that. From what I can see with the picture, you have a smaller line off of a large line. Then the large line sort of branches and continues. The smaller line is probably pulling pretty well, but the other line of the same size is losing suction from the connection of the small line. If the large line is reduced, it will increase suction. The amount of reduction is up to you.RJF In case your DYING to do a little math. OR just use one of the other calcs on the page. RJF https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/sizing-ducts-d_207.html
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Put the bench on locking casters. I wouldn't go any lower than 3 inches. I find the common 2 inch caster will tend to bind with weight. Caster are rated by weight and size. Look into putting foam sheets against the wall with plywood outside that to keep it from burning. Infrared heat is nice since it heats you directly. RJF https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=Infrared+shop+heat+wall+mount&s=review-rank&qid=1564875995&ref=sr_st_review-rank Caster-Concepts-Catalog-2016.pdf
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One idea that occurred too me. Make a model out of clay. Then use wire or floss and cut into sections. There are clay's that can be modeled then baked. Simple toaster oven can be used as a shop/craft oven. RJF https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=Sculpey&rh=p_76%3A2661625011&dc&_encoding=UTF8&ascsubtag=1ba00-01000-org00-win10-dsk00-smile-us000-gatwy-feature-SEARC&qid=1564875414&rnid=2661623011&tag=amz-mkt-fox-us-20&ref=sr_nr_p_76_1
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CT scan machine for medical does creates layered images. CAD software can be very basic to very high end and very expensive. Drawing exact dimensions of every part of a car, from the engine to the interior dash and seats, which are then sent as files to be manufactured. I know of many CAD programs in the industry which I worked on, but they were all paid for by the company. Haven't had access to a single one cause of their cost. Here is a few out there. Each with options and the more options, the more money. RJF https://all3dp.com/1/best-free-cad-software-2d-3d-cad-programs-design/
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Little tip as you tinker. Tight bends will have an effect on your vacuum. Its a fluids flow thing. Happens with design for sewage pipes too.RJF
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General filters may not have any outside cardboard. The furnace filters with outside cardboard has an arrow printed on the side showing air flow direction. I grab these and tape them to a box fan. RJF
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You can go to their site to look at the specials and a general idea before you even walk out the door. They do have racks of one time stuff like other stores. RJF https://www.hobbylobby.com/
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Which side of the fan or which side of the filter. There is an arrow on the side of filters showing the way the air flows. RJF
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The cost of the magnifiers cost is the quality of the lens material and the quality of the manufacturing of the lens magnification or polishing. Lens can be a cheap molded plastic to create the magnification shape. As the cost increases you will find clear glass that is ground and polished to create the magnification. When I was designing circuits for companies I had a bench that had a scientific magnifier. The magnification was crystal clear. I was able to find micro cracks in the cooper circuit or poor soldering on small parts. Also came with a mag camera with a flat screen to boot. Really cheap ones may distort the object. Like looking through water and not being able to grab the object. If possible bring photographs and check the magnifier. The magnification should be clear and crisp. If you decide on one because its cheap, the downside maybe your eyes will quickly tire. Its like getting a pair of glasses with the wrong script. Most people have a level of what they can afford. As I get older and having some disabilities along with my wife having the same; We find it helps to save a little more for devices that have a bit better build. We have extension grippers and the cheap ones don't grab. Cheap tub and shower bars that fall off the wall. After a round of buying things that aid or adapt for us we now save and buy a couple levels above cheap. We decided to buy equipment that will work properly and not hurt us. For magnifiers your adapting your eyes to assist or aid to see smaller things. Your buying adaptions for your eyes. If you find what you want and you find yourself tiring quickly or getting headaches, it could be the magnifier is doing that. Just like a pair of glasses that aren't made for you. Problem with Amazon and other online orders is there is no hands on trying. Just finding out after you get it. By the way, there was a thread on where the magnifier was attached. Some people had trouble with vibration from the saw when the magnifier was clamped to the table. So the discussion went on about adapting where to clamp or creating or buying floor stands. RJF
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Guess the only way to know is someone, kill a few dollars on the labeled dimmable and 'regular and plug them into a dimmer. IF its a TRUE LED, it would be dimmable because of the way they are manufactured. I have used a load of LEDs in projects and have never had a problem dimming them or creating patterns. A circuit can be designed to monitor something else and when there is lower power on that item its directly shown by the brightness of the led. Sometimes they are put on circuit boards for quick look trouble shooting. If the led is dim then something in the area of that led is pulling power. RJF
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Threw new information there. I'm familiar with the small LED that are solid state and work in all the electronics. I know CFLs can be dimmed, but some can, some can't. If its a true LED bulb, it should be solid state and dimable. So there are a group of LED bulbs out there that don't dim, and I have no idea what or where those are. I have designed smart homes and once the LED were powerful enough, everyone jumped on board to put in automated switches for them. RJF
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Since you switched to LED you 'CAN' dim it if you want to. Just go to Menards buy a LED DIMMER SWITCH a electrical box that fits it. A little lamp cord, plug and outlet plug. Wire the plug through the box to the in of the dimmer switch, wire the outlet plug through the electrical box to the out of the switch. Close up the box and add a switch plate. If you get a lot of lamp cord you can put the box anywhere on the side of the scroll saw or where ever. RJF https://www.menards.com/main/search.html?sf_categoryHierarchy=&search=led+dimmer
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https://www.uline.com/Product/AdvSearchResult?keywords=zip bags https://www.uline.com/Product/AdvSearchResult?KeywordTyped=tube bag&keywords=Plastic Tube Bags https://www.uline.com/Grp_3/Poly-Bags-Flat-Open?keywords=Poly+Bags+-+Flat%2fopen Your choice, zip bags, tube bags heat sealed, open bags that can be stapled or heat sealed. With puzzles the zip bags provide storage of the parts. Though if the puzzle put together stands, then its a display. RJF
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fru·gal /ˈfro͞oɡəl/ adjective: frugal sparing or economical with regard to money or food. "he led a remarkably frugal existence" synonyms: thrifty, sparing, economical, saving; More careful, cautious, prudent, provident, unwasteful, sensible, canny; abstemious, abstinent, austere, self-denying, ascetic, nonindulgent, self-disciplined, spartan, puritanical, nunlike, monklike, monastic, monkish; miserly, parsimonious, niggardly, scrimping, cheeseparing, penny-pinching, close-fisted, ungenerous, grasping; forehanded; informaltightfisted, tight, mingy, stingy; informalcheap "she lives a frugal life" antonyms: extravagant simple and plain and costing little. "a frugal meal" " Some of the words used here, I can't say I've ever heard. Anybody been cheeseparing lately? Had an urge to be mingy? RJF
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Your work is always creative when you post one. Haven't seen door hangers myself. Its got some possibilities. Been thinking of switch plates and outlet plates with design. Working in the flip switch and outlet holes as part of the design. RJF
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Looked at Command strips a few years ago and they seemed pricey. At least I wouldn't casually put things up and take them down all the time, Say seasonal change. Saw some at Lowes and I think one was $6.00. RJF Your work is always creative when you post one. Didn't know of door
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Looked at Command strips a few years ago and they seemed pricey. At least I wouldn't casually put things up and take them down all the time, Say seasonal change. Saw some at Lowes and I think one was $6.00. RJF
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By measuring the inside and outside measurement of the bearings you should be able to locate any bearing. Take it to a machine shop and a machinist can measure it for you. From an engineering view point the design starts with a set of measurements and the part number is stamped. Once you have the measurement a bearing can be located by part number or measurement. When you get a replacement have the replacement measured and you will know its the right part. RJF
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Uline has a whole group of bags with a zip top. Help with puzzle storage for the kids and parents when the kids tear the shrink wrap apart. RJF Linking a whole group of bags. https://www.uline.com/Product/AdvSearchResult?KeywordTyped=parts &keywords=Parts Bags Another group https://www.uline.com/Cls_01/Bags-Poly-Plastic?keywords=Bags,+Poly+/+Plastic
