FrankEV

I found a B&W image of a Papercut cutting of a “tree(?)” by a UK artist Lois Cordelia. The image is quite unique and I’m sure not to everyone’s taste. However, it intrigued me, and I wondered how it would look if made as a Scroll Saw Cutting. The original was a European A3 paper size cutting that, using Inkscape, I increased and modified slightly to convert it into an 11” x 17” scroll pattern. No other modifications were necessary to make it scrollable. I cut the pattern in a 5/32” thick solid core Walnut ply panel mainly using Pegas #2/0 Spiral blades and a Pegas #3 MGT R blade for the long straight border cuts. The perimeter border is 1/4" wide so it is hidden under the rebbeted frame rails. I enhanced the Walnut cutting with a quick wipe-on/wipe-off coat of Minwax Dark Walnut stain, mainly to stain all the interior vertical edge cuts but not wanting to lose the visibility of the wood grain. The cut panel was affixed to a 1/4” thick BB Ply Backer that I chose to paint to look somewhat like sky using my Air Brush and Acrylic Artist Air Brush Paints. The Frame is a 3/4” wide rabbeted frame made from Poplar, that was Stained with Minwax Honey and protected with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Wipe-on Polyurethane. Comments and critiques always welcome. A special note here. Cutting this image, whether you care for the image itself or not, would be an excellent opportunity for anyone that may be interested in learning how to use Spiral Blades. I will post the pattern in Pattern Exchange and include a short tutorial under Works in Progress & Tutorials that will provide; ‘My Methods’ that I followed when I cut this image with Spirals.

I limit my time at the saw. When cutting a many hole pattern, my rule is: about two hours or when the 3rd blade breaks, it is time to take a break. Fortunately, I don't suffer from pain, but at my age, my endurance ain't what it use to be. Btw, nice job cutting. Did you wind up using any spirals?

Kinda agree with you. I have seen many of these Sun Faces. Most are smiling.

You did spell that correctly?

I said I would not be posting until next year but, I had a little time and decided to make a Christmas Gift for my grown-up Granddaughter’s apartment. I modified a Steve Good Cat Door Topper Pattern and used it to make a solid wood statue with base. I increased the pattern size to make the statue 7.5” tall by 9.0” long mounted on a 7.5” long x 3” wide oval base that all was cut from 3/4" Maple. The base perimeter was beveled approximately 6 degrees. The statue was cut using a Pegas #3 MGT R blade and the base was cut with a Pegas #5 MGT R Blade. I eased all the sharp edges using a 1/8” round-over bit using my router and did additional sculpturing with my hand held Dremel Tool where the router bit would not reach. Then lots of sanding. The figure is mounted to the base with a mortice and tendon joint using both Titebond and AC Glues. I hand painted the butterfly (as can be seen I did not do a good job on the very small area) with Artist Acrylic Paints and then applied a Clear Gloss Lacquer Finish. I think it looks OK if you don’t get toooooo close. I think she will like it as she is a cat lover. Comments and critiques always welocme. PS: I’ve got another quick project going that I might just get done before we head out on trip to Branson, MO. for Christmas. So, maybe one more post this year.

Thought I had commented earlier. Bettet late thsn never, as they say. Very nice work. Great toolbox.

A non-protected stencil image I found on-line. Nobody’s pet-in-particular. Resized it in Inkscape into an 8”x 10” pattern. Cut the pattern in 5/32” Solid Core Birch Ply and affixed to a 1/4” BB Ply backer. Decided I would color it as a Chocolate Labrador and used a photo of a Chocolate Labrador, with a similar pose, as a coloring guide. The coloring was done with an Air Brush using Artist Air Brush Acrylic Paints. The Brown was easy, but trying to get the highlights correct from an apparent light source shining in from the left side was VERY difficult. After a lot of doing and redoing, I think I finally got it close, and I hope it looks halfway decent. For this 8”x10” panel, the frame is a simple 3/4” wide rabbeted Poplar rail stained Minwax Early American and protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. Comments and critiques always welcome. PS: This will be the last new posting I put up this year since nothing new is ready for the saw. Edit: Deleted this paragraph due to security concerns. Sufice to say we are busy for the next month. So, it looks like my shop is going dark for the rest of the year but, hopefully, I’ll be back in front of the saw by the New Year. Happy Holidays to all…I'll pesters you all with new posts in 2024!

Now that you mentioned it, I do have his pattern in my files with a title "Honeybee" so it did not register in my scan of my files when I looked for "Bee". When I was looking throug the Website that had all kinds of'"Bee" things I found a couple of images I liked and decided, for the small price, to buy a few. This one sort of jumped out at me because of the rather overly exagerated Bee image. Other than the bridges I had to add between the Honeycomb sections, I also liked the simplicity of the Honeycomb image. I immediately could invision how it would be colored.

Very nice and well done. However, wrong season...Christmas is coming, not Easter.

A purchased SVG file that required some work to make the pattern scrollable. The Bee is a separate layer applied on top of the cut panel. The cut panel is 5/32” x 12” x 12” solid core Maple Ply affixed to a 1/4" x 12” x 12” BB Ply Backer. The Bee is also 5/32” solid core Maple Ply. Coloring was done using my Air Brush with Artist Acrylic Air Brush Paints. The assembled panel was protected with multiple coats of a Clear Gloss Acrylic. The Frame is 1/3/4” wide Poplar rails finished with Black Lacquer. Made this as a Christmas Gift for my, soon-to-be ,Grand-Daughter-in-law, who, besides being the mother of my Great-Grand-son, is a Bee Keeper. Comments and critiques always welcome.

Can't argue with your logic!

Quik question. Looking at the photo I'm curious, did you paint the backer behind the fox Orange? I would have thought you would have used a red or gray?

Very nicely done.

The flip flop black, weed green, water blue and brown footprints are on the backer. The red and blue is on the cut panel. All applied with the air brush.

Sometimes, simple is all it takes. I found the B&W clipart image on-line in an obscure commercial website that allowed free downloads, and I just took a liking to it. I converted it and resized it to a 12" x 18" scrollable pattern by just the addition of a few bridges. I cut the 5/32" thk solid core Maple panel in a little over a hour using Pegas #0 Spiral blades. The backer is 1/4" BB Ply. I added color using my Air Brush and Artist Acrylic Air Brush Paints. After assembly, I finished the cut panel with multiple coats of a Clear Gloss Acrylic protective coating. The frame is a- not my typical - Poplar 3/4" wide rabbeted rail frame with a Black Gloss Lacquer finish. I thought a narrow frame would look good with this image and I think it works. Comments and Critiques always welcome.

I believe I may have posted that pattern in '21 with a bunch of others I did at the same time. I purchased it on line. This was my version. Santa 3.pdf

I was going to do a nautical scene next, but my Grandson and his lady are comming down from NY to visit us in Early December with Ryder, my new Great-Grandson. I decided to make the last one that I have with a clip for them to use in Ryders room. Elephants are everywhere in his room, so the subject was a no brainer. I found this cute free clip-art image that fit the space nicely with minimum adjustments needed. Went again with the 3 1/4"wx 4"h cut panels, but used Birch Solid Core ply. However, this time I chose to finish it with Gloss Black Laquer with the Translucent light purple Acrylic defusers. I have pretty much got all the bugs out of the process of making these shades. These shades can be cut and assembled in about 5 hours of which a good part is the Titebond glue-up dry time. The small panel size - which to me feels strange to work on - dictates the scene can not be too intricate, therefore the stacked side panels take less than an hour to cut. It took me longer to make the pattern this morning than to cut it. I'll post it in Pattern Exchange. I plan to oder some more of the kits, but I'll take a break from making more right away, so I won't be bugging you with more Shade posts for a while. Comments and Critiques always welcome.

Wonderful. I played the Trumpet all through Junior High and High School. Louis Armstrong and Harry James were my idols.

Very nice pn both the pattern and cutting. Yes, I can see where those long bridges would be difficult to cut. I'm sure the handler will love it and display it with pride.

OK, Things worked this time. A Steve Good pattern that I reduced down to 3 1/2" w x 4" h. The two side were an easly stack cut using Pegas #2/0 spiral blades. All 5/32" Maple solid core ply from my cut-offs pile. I like the slightly smaller overall width. I feel it just looks nicer. By mitering all the pieces and using tape, so they can be folded up together, the joints glued up nicely using Titebond III. I was able to include with the cut panel pattern, a pattern for the base with the necessary cut out to suit the clip for the night light attachment. The pattern is already posted in Pattern Exchange No paint this time, just multiple coats of clear Gloss Lacquer before gluig in the clip and translucent acrylic sheets with AC Glue. These close up pics make the vertical joint and the surfaces look bad, but in real life, they do not look bad at all, especially when viewed from more than just a few inches. Unlit Lit Bottom Inside As always, Comments and Critiques welcome. I have one more light with a clip. Thinking a nautical scene would be appropriate for that one.

OK, I think I may have a solution....on paper anyway. I've posted another pattern in Pattern exchange of a Mushroomfairy (a S. Good Pattern) that I mde into a shade for another NiteLight. Along with the cut panel patern I've shown a plan of the bottom as well. Also, the mitering needed so it can be assembled with tape like making a box. I have not cut it yet but I will start later today. Just thoght those who may be following might want to look at the new try.

Exactly what I did. While you are trying to fit the bottom piece in the corner joint opens up. One joint at a time just did not work for me. Just thinking of what you said, maybe if you lay the three pieces flat on the bench with the tape attached for each joint, like you do for a box, after applying the clue you should be able to fold up the three pieces into the open shape and the tape should hold all the joints in place. I realy should have thought of that when I did mine.

Well done and cute!

I have spent the last couple of weeks making this 14” x 11” Framed Art Panel while I documented nearly every step along the way in photos. I have also spent many hours writing a detailed description of each step to accompany the photos. This work resulted in a 28-page Tutorial I produced and will provide, in PDF format, in a separate post you will find in the Learning Center, Works In Progress & Tutorials, for anyone who may be interested. The Tutorial is a step-by-step documentation of how I go about creating a piece of Scroll Saw Art MY WAY from concept to completion. It includes nine major steps: 1 - Concept, 2 - Creating the Scroll Saw Pattern in Inkscape, 3 – Choosing and preparing the panels, 4 - Scrolling the Cut Panel, 5- Adding Color, 6 – Art Panel assembly, 7 - Adding Logo, 8 - Finishing the Panel, and 9 - Making the Frame. If you want to know more about this project and/or are interested in MY WAY of doing this kind of project, please download the PDF titled: Art by Sam Savitt Interpreted in Wood with a Scroll Saw - A step-by-step Informational Tutorial by FrankEV. (pdf file name is: A step by step Tutorial by FrankEV.pdf) I will aslo post the pattern in Pattern Exchange

I thought about a top panel as well. I'm not convinsed yet that it is needed. A bottom panel would not be needed if there was another way to connect the clip to the shade. Most of the shades, like the holiday kind, are just in front of the light. I tried rubber bands, but there was not enough rigidness for the bands to work against. Just collasped the assembley when I tried.