FrankEV

You can get smaller bits from Danny at Artcrafters. I would have been using a #68 bit and #2/0 spiral blade to cut small fretwork like that. BTW, very nice.

Very nice. Nice pattern and great cutting. Where are you able to obtain premade frame material?>

Cutting looks great, but it sure doesn't look like Walnut in the picture. I might have dipped in a stain to enhance the color before finishing. And, correct mr if I'm wrong, but I see fuzzies the mop may have missed. After looking more clossely, I think I was seeing the mat/rug below. I should know bwetter. You would not leave any fuzzies. I personally am not found of thick wood for even Trivets. To me 1/4" thick would would be better, but I realize more delicate also.

My Grandson and his Girlfriend (soon to be wife) are expecting a baby boy in September. When my Grandsons' were born, I was only in my early 40’s and felt I was too young to be called Grandpa so I said just call me Grumps. That has stuck to this day, so now I’m going to be a Great Grumps! I was looking for something to make for them and stumbled across this Stencil that I thought would be perfect. I converted it to a 12” x 18” pattern that I cut in 5/32” Solid Core Birch ply. The cut panel was affixed to an Air Brush painted ¼” x 12 x 18” BB ply Backer. The Pattern is very simple, taking me less than two hours to cut using my go to Pegas #2/0 spiral blades. Painting and drying took a lot longer. The assembled panel was protected with multiple coats of Krylon Clear Gloss Acrylic Finish. While the paint dried, I made a Gallery Style Floating Frame constructed out of 3/4" wide Poplar rails and finished with Glidden Max-Flex All Surface spray can Armor (Silver) paint. I will let the Frame paint fully cure for a few days and then get this into the mail by early next week so they can hang it in the Baby Nursery. Yes as always, comments and critiques are welcome.

NIce! Never too early to cut for a hoilday. I'm already cutting a couple of pieces foe Xmas.

Well done! Don't know how you handled it, but for "positive" patterns like this I like to keep the surrounding board in one piece using a drilled hole. I will tape the cut panel to the surrounding wood as I cut the perimeter. This holds delicate piece for you as you cut. I also make my cut panel the exact same size as my backer so I can than use the surrounding wood to locate the cut panel on the backer. That assumes the cut panel is properly located in the first place. I compliment you on placing the image on the backer with a nice balance amount of free space all around. ..KUDOs.

I found this stencil of a pair of tiger cubs that I thought would make a nice cutting. The scroll saw pattern I developed just seemed to look good in an 8x10 format, so I used a piece of 5/32 x 8 x 10 solid core Maple that I mounted on a painted Black 11 x14 x 1/4 thick BB ply Backer. The pattern is relatively simple but has a lot more holes than what I expected at first glance. For the cutting I used Pegas #2/0 Spiral blades. This piece gave me an opportunity to practice my skills using the Air Brush to add color. Since, in this case I was adding the color to the cut panel, I removed the pattern with the underlying liner, from only the image area so the remaining pattern paper and liner acted as a mask while I sprayed. Happily, there was no paint bleed under the mask. I’m quite pleased with the results but I’m only beginning to learn and would welcome any comments or suggestions about Air Brush work that would help me improve my skills. How to mix paints to obtain a specific color is top on my learning list. I happened to have this natural Red Oak Frame already made and used it for the picture. Not quite happy with it and thinking I will make a new one, but because I used black for the perimeter area, I’m unsure what color (stain or paint) the frame should be. Suggestions welcome. I'll share the pattern in Pattern Exchange.

Great job on both. The HOG hits close to home as I ride a HD Street Glide and have cut a few MC patterns a while ago. Wish I could find a good pattern of a Batwing Fairing Glide to cut. In reference to your comment about using FD 3/0 spiral. I have tried them and found that they aren't any smaller than the pegas 2/0. In fact the resulting cut is, to my eyes, actualy wider. Enjoy the new saw.

JFI, I also prefer the B&W version. The color version was an experiment. It is OK but not as nice as I was hoping it would turn out. Thanks to all for the replies with a preference noted.

I converted and resized this original White on Black image into two (2) slightly different 11” x 14” Scroll Saw Patterns. Being true to the original, for the first pattern (which I consider a Nighttime view) I simply inverted the image so that the cut out areas, that would show the White, would be Red outlines with grey fill. For the second, using a copy of the first pattern, I reworked the area around the Moon (now to be a Sun) so the image is a Daytime view, which allowed me to add color. The conversion work also included the removal of a lot of unintended bridges created by Inkscape. Since most of the cut panels would be painted, I felt the panel did not have to be the normal better quality solid core ply that I typically use, I decided to stack cut two pieces of 1/8” BB Ply that has been hanging around in my workshop for a very long time. Unfortunately, the stack was bowed slightly which made cutting very difficult. The stack cutting was completed up to a point where the area around the Moon/Sun had to be done. The two panels were then separated, and the areas cut separately. As usual, all cutting was done with Pegas #2/0 spiral blades. For the Nighttime version, the cut panel was primed and painted with Krylon spray can Black and the backer primed and painted with Krylon spray can White. The assembled panel was set into a Painted Black Floating frame. For the Daytime version, both the backer and cut panel were both sealed with a clear Krylon sealer and then painted with Acrylic Artist paints using an Air Brush. The assembled panel was finished with multiple coats of a Clear Acrylic Protective Coating. The assembled panel was set into my usual 1 3/4” wide Pine Frame that was primed and painted with Glidden Spray Can Max-Flex, Earthy Cane Satin (Glidden likes to use fancy names. This is just a light cream color.). Comments and critiques always welcome.

Here is what I did back in '21. I was wanting to know how long pieces took to cut. Real saw cutting time. After a lot of research I found what I wanted from Grainger. I ordered it a few days ago and it came today and it is now installed on my Pegas saw. It is an L6 series LCD Resetable Hour meter By ENM of Chicago that reads hours and minutes. Yes it is a litlle bit pricey at $71.42 + S&T, but I wanted the simple push button reset. Cheaper models did not have a reset capability which would be fine if you just wanted to know how long the machine was operated for maintenance purposes. After cutting a hole in the side of the Pegas (just needed to take out a piece between two of the existing oval holes) I mounted the provided plastic frame that the meter slips in to. After which I simply cut the black and white wires in the plug wire, stripped them back a short didtance, twisted them together and inserted the black into pin # 1 and the white into Pin #3, tightening down the screws to hold them in place. I reniforced the plug wire behind the meterwith some electrical tape and slipped the unit into the mounted frame. A quick test run produced a one minute indidation to show on the meter. With a push of the button on the front it returned to 0-00. Here are pics: Yes, I did gouge the adjacent metal with the cut off grinder...me bad. This set up only shows saw run time. Actual saw sit time can be once or more as much, depending on number of holes. Threading time is often more that sawing time. I'm adding this comment today. My setup has bee working fine, but I just do not think about reseting it at the beginning of each new project. When I do look it will have quite a few hours recorded. It is interesting to see the cutting time, but I think I need to add a second timer to record just how long I sit at the saw on a given project.

Very nicely done. Great work on Jims patterns that are wonderfuly created and timeless. All they need now is some nice frames.

Thank you for listing the woods you used. With that verity, It kind of makes me wonder how much stock of various woods do you have and how do you obtain such a veriety to choose from? Kowing the price of the various exotic wood available from Ocooch, it must take a fairly large outlay to get started. Would love to know more about this subject. I have not attempted any Intarsia, but it reminds me a lot of work my Dad did many years ago (maybe close to 40 years ago) called Marquetry, with the major difference is that in Intarsia you add depth and sculpture to your work. I know back then he used to buy his vaneers in large variety packs so he had lots and lots of choices. However, I also remember how he would complain that, with all the coices he had, he could not find a piece that gave him the color ot grain he needed. I suspect some of that is the same for your work.

Try sandind to 600 grit. Remove dust well before applying linner. Press gently to remove any bubbles but do not emboss too much with a plastic squeegee or the like. Remove ASAP because the longer it is on the stronger the linner adhesive gets. This may all help but a better grade ply will make a real difference.

Cute! Water color paints could be used if you want to color them. A non-hardening stain and BLO would also work. Any hardening finish, like oil based paint, poly and probably even Lacquer will mess with the flexability. A light coat of Lacquer or Polycrilic finish might work if you can pull and hold the flex cuts apart a little until the coating drys. Have fun.

I found this B&W ‘High Noon Show Down’ image on-line and thought it would be a good Scroll Saw subject. I know there are few fans of Old West among the SVV members that might like it. I understand this is a scene from a movie/series of a while back of the same name. I never watched it. The conversion consisted of no more than resizing and inverting the image, so the cutout areas were red lines with grey fill. Added a few bridges to the pattern and I also found that I needed a few more bridges during cutting. I didn’t count, but there were a lot of holes. All cutting was done with Pegas #2/0 Spiral blades, except I used a Pegas #1 MGT R for the long straight cuts along the narrow 1/4” wide edges (under the frame rabbet). The cut panel is 5/32” x 11 x 14” solid core Walnut ply that was darkened with Minwax Dark Walnut stain. The cut panel was affixed to a 1/4” x 11” x 14” solid core Maple Ply backer that was left natural. This project is “Old School” - two tone wood, and it took a lot of will power on my part not to try and add color. The assembled panel was finished with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Spray Lacquer. The Frame is 1 3/4” wide Premium Pine rails sealed with non-wax containing Shellac, stained with Minwax Honey Maple Gel-Stain, and finished with two coats of Clear Minwax Satin Wipe-on Poly. Since I have been using Acrylic Paints and Polycrylic finishes recently, I almost forgot how long oil stain and Poly takes to dry - seems like forever. Comments and critiques always welcome. I’ll post the pattern in Pattern Exchange.

#2/0 blades will break if you look at them funny Tensioning is the problem. I do not play with my tensioning knob. I keep it set whehe I have found it works for all blades, and it is taped in place because it tends to want to adjust itself. For #2/0 blade, after threading it through the dill hole being very careful not to kink it as that will cause it to break quickly also, I hold the blade slightly bent between my thumb and forefinger while tightening the top clamp. This causes the blade to be a little longer between the clamps. Then, while fliping the tensioning lever, I "feel" to make sure there is not too much tension and will stop if it "feels" tooooo tight. This feel takes practice and experimenting with, but it does work (at least for me). You just can not, and it is not needed to, tension a 2/0 blade as tight as larger blades. Also, I'm hard of hearing so the plucked "ping" just does not work for me. If the blade does not break while fliping the tensioning lever over, it should be OK if you don't push too hard or run the saw at too high a speed. And ,of course, 2/0 blades do not like to be turned in corners. I use the double cut method to make a neat sharp inside point, creating a space in the work that you can turn the work without twisting the blade. I find both small regular and spiral blades break most often because they get kinked during the threading task. Tiney holes for small blades are great if doing vaining or the like, but a litter bigger hole makes threading without kinking much easier. All above just my 2 cents, for what it's worth.

I only spray 3M-77 adhesive for attaching patterns to my panels OUTSIDE at my trash bins. Yes, I'm in Florida, but it really dosn't matter what temps as it only takes a minute or so to spray the pattern and panel. A hard rain is the only time I will put it off for a dryer time. Heavy wind can be a bother but I can usually deal with it. Once or twice I attempted to spray the adhesive inside and will never do it again. Overspray from just a very short application seems to get on everything in the shop. I always pre-attach my paper pattern to the panel with blue tape to form a hinge. After the quick spray of both surfaces, I just roll the pattern onto the panel, and then run back inside where I can make sure threre are no bubbles or wrinkles. I will spray finishes like Lacquer, Paint, Poly, etc. in my shop using heavy brown paper, I get at lowes by the roll which is intended for protecting floors during construction, to protect my bench and table saw (wich I often use as a table as space is a premium in my small shop) . I think it is 36" wide by a 100 or more feet. I forget the cost but its is not very expensive. .One piece of the browm paper can be use many times before needing to be discarded when overspray dust gets too messsy. While spraying any finish, I always raise my work with 1/4" thick wood strips that I save from panel cut offs I have painters points (plastic perimid shaped thingamjigs) that can be used but I can never find them when I need them. And I only have 4, so I often need more and the cut off strips are plentiful and lay in a pile on a shelf near my work bench. In my utility woork room in my house where I do most of my coloration using Artist Acrylic Paints, and most recently, applying with an Air Brush, I have set up a makeshift paint spray booth out of cardboard. No exhaust fan yet, but there are plans to install one now that I'm using the Air Brush. In the bottom of the booth I like to use cheap tissue paper as a work surface. A new piece under each new project is quite effective to catch any drips, spills, etc. The painting area gets very messy.

All very nice. As to delamination. Was that Solid Birch wood or Birch Ply? Usually, delamination occurs when you remove the pattern if tape or liner is used. For this case I find very good sanding before application of the liner (what I use) minimizes tear out. Also, liner removal must be with the grain not against or across to insure no tearout. However, what you discribe, sounds like a problem with the wood itself. Box store birch ply is pure junk as far as I'm concerned, that is why I only use Columbia Solid Core Ply. Pricy but a much better quality. Or, another cause could be the blades you are using. Not the Brand, necessarily, but the number of teeth. More teeth the smoother the cut will be in whatever material you are using. Large blades with small number of teeth and slow saw speed will rip/tear the wood (especialy ply). JFYI, I use, almost ecclusively, spiral blades. I do get a lot of fuzzies on the back side but no, none, nada tear out or delamination. For long straight or curved lines I will often use a Pegas #1, 3, or 5 MGT R (depending on material thickness) with no noticable tearout. Hope this info might help.

You can get a inexpensive burning tool at any craft store if only to be used occasionally If back is still unfinished you could just sand smooth, write all pertinent info in pen and then apply a protetive coat of clear lacquer or poly. If wood is dark use a white ink pen.

Absolutely beautiful. You can see where they were maried in the bacground. Since you do not include,names, dates or location on the front, I hope you put that info on the back with your signature and date of creation. Gotta think long time into the future when sombody else may be looking at it.

The cutting loooks great. However, I'm confused (easy to do these days). Is the inlay the same thickness as the rectangular board? I don't understand why the need to use so many clamps. If they are the same thckness, a good method of clamping to maintain a level surface would be to place the assembly between two pieces of nice flat 3/4" thk boards (ply or otherwise) and clamp with maybe only 4 to 6 clamps depending on the overall size to get nice uniform pressure. I use a piece of waxed paper between the finish surface of the panel and the clamping boards to make sure no glue gets gets between the clamping boards and the panel. I made a gule-up press just for this kind of clamping that will accomodate a panel up to 14 x 24. Here is a couple of pics JFYI.

Great cutting. Somehow he looks like he is very tired and getting ready to go to sleep in the grass!

Cute! The backer and frame all work well together with the segmentation. Her BFshould enjoy it.

I like the very well done cutting and colorization. However, in my opinion the backer is too dark.