FrankEV

4th of July is only a short time away...if you get busy you can probably make something special for it.

I agree with you. Thought about adding a pole after seeing the image cutting painted. I had decided on the panel size before considering adding a pole. Adding it after the fact would have put the image off center. If I do another one, I would make the panel bigger (at least longer) and include a pole of some sort as part of the full image.. Thanks

I have been itching to cut another Eagle pattern but could not find an image that I liked or that had not been done by others. Since the Bald Eagle is our National Bird and the Emblem of our USA Nation, it is very fitting that it is often shown in various portrayals with the Stars and Stripes, our Grand American Flag. I found this Image of an Eagle that I liked, but it had a distressed Flag in the background that I did not like. I tend to be a purest and find the many images of our American Flag shown distressed or with other colors to be, IMHO to some degree, unpatriotic. I feel Our American flag should be treated with all the respect it deserves. So, I went searching for a more, again IMHO, standard Image of our Flag. As you are probably aware, there are a vast number of free images available. I found an Image of a waving flag that was more suited to being converted to a scroll saw pattern. I combined the Image of the Eagle (minus the distressed flag) I liked with the version of the Waving American Flag. My problem was that the Eagle was a “positive” image and the Flag a “negative” image. I solved this problem by cutting two separate cut Panels. One of the Eagle and one of the American Flag, with the area that is hidden by the superimposed eagle removed. The Eagle was cut out of a 1/4” x10” x 12” solid core Walnut panel and the Flag was cut in a 5/32” x 14” x 12” solid core Maple panel. The backer (third layer) was 1/4” x 14” x 12” BB Ply. The positive Eagle cutting was quite fragile, so I darkened it by dipping it Minwax Dark Walnut Stain. The stain was lightly/gently wiped off, hung up and allowed to dry for over three days. I used my Air Brush to paint the Backer and Flag Cut Panel, the flag “Red, White, and Blue” colors. In lieu of using Acrylic Gesso under the colors, I sealed all the surfaces to be painted with clear Acrylic Sealer. The Eagle panel was cut with Pegas #0 and #2/0 spiral blades while the Flag panel was cut with Pegas #1 MGT R blades. After the stain was dry and painting completed, the panel was assembled in two steps. The Backer and Flag cut panel glued up first and then the Eagle cutting was glued to the surface of the Flag cut panel. Thus, three layers. You can see this in the second Photo below. The assembled panel was then finished with multiple coats of the Clear Gloss Acrylic For this unique piece, I custom made a gallery style Floating Frame using nominal 3/4” Maple hardwood with a thin nominal 1/8” gap around the panel. To match the Maple Cut Panel the Maple frame was left natural and finished with the same Clear Gloss Acrylic Protective Finish. You can all salute now. Comments and Critques always welcome.

Yep, I do do

This pattern is another wall stencil that I converted for use with a Scroll Saw. I felt the pattern needed to be as large as possible but, because I use precut project panels, my maximum is limited to 12 by 19 inches. This pattern is cut out of 5/32” x 10” x 19” solid core Maple Ply which is affixed to a 1/4” x 10” x 19” Hand Painted (assuming that is the correct term for using an Air Brush) backer. My only wish was that I would have been able to have the wood grain run horizontally, but, again, because I use precut panels, this was not possible. All easy cutting - estimated to be around 700 holes, I lost count - was done using Pegas #0 spiral blades. The backer was painted with Artist Acrylic Paints specifically intended for use with an Air Brush. A regular artist brush was only used to do the small amount of White under the Geese necks and a little touch up here and there as needed after the panels were assembled. And yes, the Yellow/Red - Sun/Moon (your choice) was painted on the surface of the cut panel. The panel was finished with multiple coats of Krylon Clear Spray Acrylic Protective Coating. And, once again, the panel is set into a typical 1 3/4” wide custom made, premium grade pine, frame I made that was finished with Minwax Poly-Shade Mission Oak. For anyone interested, I used this project to document the steps I took to paint the backer, in this case, using an Air Brush. You can read my post in the Learning Center/ Works In Progress and Tutorials: Painting an Art Panel Backer with an Air Brush I will post this pattern in Pattern Central/Pattern Exchange for anyone who might like to have it. As always, comments and critique welcome.

Yes the Air Brush is difficult to keep clean. I have already found Acrylics will harden up in the gun before you are even done using a color. Air Brush cleaner liquid works well and I found a brush wetted with it, can be used to keep the tip clean between paint applications. My son is well versed in using an Air Brush and has given me a lot of tips. This Peacock is the first piece that I actually used the Air Brush on. My skills need a lot of improvement. I found I can already add shading and highlights but would love to be able to add fine details as well. I know: Practice, practice, practice!

Parrots in Tree and Peacock and Flowers are two stencils I converted and resized for use with a Scroll saw. These cuttings have taken me a long time to complete because, as you all know, life gets in the way sometimes. My “in-shop-time” has been very limited over the past months due to some minor medical problems and the need to get some long overdue chores completed around my home. Priorities, priorities! Parrots in Tree is 5/32” x 9” x 10” Maple solid core ply mounted on an oversized 1/4” thick painted backer. The backer is intended to be 11” x 12”, but mine was not cut correctly, thus the narrower boarder you see in the picture. My goof! There are two versions of the Peacock and Flowers patterns, a more inclusive overall image and the enlarged partial Image I chose to cut. My cutting is 5/32” x 11” x 17” Birch solid core ply affixed to a ¼” x 11” x 17” painted backer. The backers are painted with Artist Acrylics and are a combination of hand painting and an Air Brush painting. I’ve just begun to experiment with the use of the Air Brush. So far, I’m liking how the colors look. All cutting was done with Pegas #2/0 and #0 spiral blades, and as usual, the assembled panels are finished with multiple coats of a Clear Gloss Acrylic Protective coating. Frames are my typical 1 3/4” wide premium grade Pine finished with Minwax Mission Oak Poly-Stain. Comments and critiques are always welcome. I'll post the patterns in "Pattern Exchange".

In todays (5/30/23) email from Steve Good, he offered his version of a shop clock which is very nice. Here is a link for those who do not get his daily Email: Male and Female Scrollers Clock Scroll Saw Pattern.

After reading "preprius" reply, I first now see the lacing. Did you have a pattern or just "eyeball" all the drill holes? It looks good at first glance, but the lack of uniformity and symetry bothers my eyes. I would have thought all the laces around the edge should have been made perpendicular to the edge on the spacing located by the radian projected from the from the center every 6 degrees representing 60 seconds. I see the attempt at making every 5th lace a little longer than the others, but it is not quite apparant at first glance. A double thick lace might read better. Sorry for being a critical. The Idea is great, but with some minor tweaks, it would be outstading.

Check out this tutorial I did quite awhile ago. If I did not mention it in the tutorial, I frequently use copies of the cutting pattern as stencils to add the colors to the backer. I will cut out the areas for the different colors on separate printouts. takes a little patience.

I'm with you...I'll be 81 in 8 days!

Gene, Thank you for your very nce comment. Much appreciated. I basicaly use the same techniques for most of the Art panels I create. I allmost exclusively use 5/32" cut panels and 1/4" thick backers, some with a oversized backer and some without. I prefer patterns that are a negative cutting (like the birds) that I can color the backer. They seem to be most apealing to most people. My methods of coloring the backer panel is evolving including the use of an air brush. Some successes but not always. I've just started a new project that will add a piece to the "Bunch". Keep a watch for a post in a couple of weeks.

Very nice. Hope you signed and dated the back of this one with maybe a little private message also.

I need a clock for my shop. A few weeks ago I asked, in PATTERN REQUEST, if anyone had a pattern for clock face for a shop clock that depicted Scrolling. Did not get any usable responses so I decided I needed to make my own. I believe I adopted the pattern of a “Person at a Scroll Saw” from Steve Good’s library quite a while ago, which I have been using to make my “Scroll Saw Art by Frank” signs and I have also included it in my Logo. I figured I could adapt the pattern by adding some bridges to make it a negative cutting and wrap the clock face hour numerals around it. I found a simple clock face I liked on-line. This is what I came up with. The clock face is a 10” diameter 5/32” thick solid core Maple cut panel affixed to a 10” diameter 1/4” BB Ply Backer painted rattle can Flat Black. The Pattern starts out as an 11” x 11” square. I cut the disk out after the cut panel and backer are glued together. The numerals were cut using a Pegas #0 Spiral Blade and the center pattern using a Pegas #3 MGT R blade. The assembled disk was protected with multiple coats of clear spray Acrylic finish. I purchased a “High Torque Long Shaft Quartz HR1688 Clock Movement Mechanism Replacement Clock Kit with 5.4 Inch Long Spade Hands for DIY Handicrafts Repair Clock Parts Shaft Lengths 22.5mm / 0.89 inch” for $9.49 from Amazon. I had used this item for the Dragon Clock I made a while ago that had a larger diameter and made athe mistake of just reordering the same one. The hands are too long for this smaller diameter clock. I should order new shorter hands, but probably won't bother. I made this clock too quickly and there are lots of goofs in both the cutting and finishing, but it will do for hanging in my shop. I will post the pattern in New Pattern Announcements’. Comments welcome but you can skip the critiques.

BTW Richard, I believe this post and replys should have really been in Town Square/General Scroll Sawing forum.

I use as NEJE Master 2 Laser engraver/cutter to put my Logo on the back side of my work. I sign it with a pen before I apply a clear coat of lacquer or acrylic finish. The first pic shows the finished Logo on the back of a piece positioned in the NEJE Master 2. I went to this Logo becaues I have had people who purchased my work want a "personally signed original".

Travis removed two pics that he considered nudes which I guess is not permitted in this forum. Yes there was the female upper naked frontal view, but I personally did not consider them to be anything but art, not unlike all the others. It is his site. his guide lines and his control, so I realy can not complain. This site is a great place to show off our work and happy to be part of the village.

The original “Stencil Art” I used for these pieces is by Lee Czembowski, aka BoyKidWonder (BKW). The characters, in BKW’s art, were inspired by characters in comics and the like, and created with slightly naughty interpretations. You may recognize many of the characters. Since they are already stencils, I had to do very little work to adapt them as patterns for the Scroll Saw other than adjusting pattern size. I decided to break away from my usual large panel presentations and do this series of B&W cuttings in small 5/32” x 6 1/4” x 8 1/4” solid core Maple panels affixed onto painted oversized ¼”x 8” x10” BB ply backers. Of course, I could not stop myself from adding a little color by painting the oversized backer frame area pink. After assembly, all panels were protected with Clear Gloss Acrylic. The small pattern size and the intricate details required me to exclusively use Pegas #2/0 spiral blades as many cutouts were not much wider than the blades themselves. I also had to be extra careful not to cut though between adjacent areas as many were very close together. My success rate was maybe 98%. And, yes, in a few places CA glue came to the rescue. I also parted from making custom frames for these pieces. I found very inexpensive – less than $3 each - 8” x 10” frames on Amazon, which I decided to use. The painted black rails of the frames are about 1/2” wide and were supplied with the usual glass (plastic), matt board and backer for hanging or tabletop standing, all of which I discarded. I only had to add a small sawtooth hanger to each frame and the pieces were complete. Comments and critiques always welcome.

I use the 1/4 BB ply exclusively for fretwork art type panel backers. I use 5/32 in thk solid core project panels for the cut panels. I find even the best quality 1/8 in thk BB Ply is not nice looking enough lacking grain and color. Also it does tends to warp and will not lay flat.

Beautiful, simply beautiful!

I like your work and this piece is very nice. However, at first view I lost the work as my eyes went directly to the LP's in the bacground. I know I'm being picky, as I have been with others, but why in the world would you photograph such a nice piece in front of a cluttered bacground like this. This forum is, IMHO, a place to proudly share "your work" with your piers and the photos used should do that. Again , in my opinion, the background should be very neautral and the photo cropped so the work is shown up-close for all to appreciate. If you are offended so be it, but once again, this is simply my opinion which I stand behind and make no apoligies.

I looked up the product. I found thst it is framing mattboard usually used when framing potos and such. That is why it almost looked like fabric. Appreciate the info. Thanks

Great cuttings, great presentations, great frames! Love the oversized Backers on the cats. Are the backers natural wood or colored with ????? Or maybe fabric? They look pinkish in the pics.

Like everyone says...Excelent Cutting. But, just curious, WHY? Were you just testing yourself or do you have a need for the cut out words?

Extreamly well done...both the cutting and the frame. Thanks for the pattern.