FrankEV

I don't think that can happen Copyright protections would prevail. ACME Tools would have thought about that a long time ago. I'm not even planning to sell my Wile E Coyote or this Road Runner because I beleive it would be a breach of Copyright or Trademark. I plan to just keep them for my own enjoyment.

I purchased a packet of Road Runner SVG files on-line, although I was only looking for this one image to pair with my “Wile E Coyote Help” piece. The SVG’s have many layers and after considerable trial and error attempts, I was able to segregate all the color layers leaving only the Black outline that I was able to convert into a scrollable red/gray pattern by adding a bunch of bridges. I sized the pattern to fit nicely on a 5/32” x 11” x 14” solid core Maple Ply panel. The cut panel was affixed to an 1/4” x 11” x 14” BB Ply backer that had been painted with Krylon rattle can spray Gloss Black. After relatively easy cutting with Pegas #1 MGT R blades, the remaining interior areas was painted with Artist Acrylic Paints. I painted each visible bridge Black, so it has the appearance of the outlines being continuous. And, like usual, the assembled panel was protected by multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. The Frame is 1 3/4” wide pine painted Glidden Gloss Black. I think I will need to give the frame another coat of paint as the Pine wood grain is too visible in the photo. Comments and Critiques are always welcome.

They look great...puts mine to shame!

I'm not into crosses much, but they look good and different. Your cutting and colloring is great.

https://www.homedepot.com/s/columbia%20forest%20products%205%2F32?NCNI-5 I mostly use the 5/32" x 12" x 19.25" Maple.Project panels that come in a box of 10. Price has increased significantly in recent times...like everything else.

In a post under Q&A, OCtoolguy was asking about use of Thin MDF. In his post he happened to show a pic of a Tissue Box cover he was making that had an image of a Palm Tree on its sides. This reminded me that I needed to make a couple more cube type tissue box covers for my home, and a Palm Tree would be a good image for my Florida home. And, as you are aware in Florida, pollen is prevalent, so allergy siffles and sneezing results in tissue boxes being all over the house. I had previously made a Hummingbird Cube tissue box cover for my lady’s desk and then a Seahorse cover for one of our end tables. I needed another one for my desk and another for the other End Table. Using the same building techniques as previously with mitered joinery, I made these two covers, “Beach w/ Palm Tree” and “Starfish”. The box walls are nominal 1/4” thick made up of Solid Core 5/32” Maple cut panels mounted to 1/8” thick BB ply hand painted backers. My corner joints are much better than my previous builds but not quite as neat as I would like. However, since they are a utilitarian product for my home with a little Art built in, they work well when pulling out a tissue and the joints are only very noticeable in the photos…not so much in the real life sitting on my furniture. Comments and critique always welcome.

Really neat!!!!!!!! I have tons of 1/4' Thick BB ply scrap that I keep but hardly ever need to use. It is something I may just try. Thanks for sharing this great Idea.

Well done. Couple of requests: 1. What is the translucent material you are using? 2. Would you show what the lights are that you are using. 3. What is the light box configeruation you are using? specifically depth. well done

It is their Gel stain. Wipes on easy, rubs off difficult. Gets sticky. About three coats of on and then imeediately off. Clear Gloss Poly Spray to finish The clear #1 Pine is from Lowes. Not the cheap stuff. I buy 8" or 12" wide x 8' boards and rip them down down to 1 3/4" wide sticks. I do the same with Poplar when I can find some nice clear boards without too much green or dark grain. Most economical way to make frames.

I think this fits the Theme. Made for my Lady's young Grandson, who loves Dragons, so he can learn to tell time that is not digital and learn a little Chineese at the same time. Edit 9/4/22: Just remembered my Cube style Tissue box covers...very functional projects.

Danny posted his cutting of “Elvis” on August 9,2022. He gave credit to Grandpa, but reading on, it seems this pattern may have been by someone else or maybe by more than one. I found the original negative image, before being converted to a scroll saw pattern, on-line with no name associated with it. I like Danny’s cutting and this version of Elvis, and I had need to make an “Elvis” as a gift. A local Dinner we frequent has their walls covered with Elvis and Marilyn pics and posters. I plan to give them this Elvis and a Marilyn I made a while ago. No strings attached. So here is my version of “Elvis” that is cut from 5/32” x 11” x 14” solid core Maple Ply affixed to a 1/4”BB Ply painted black backer, finished with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. The assembled panel is mounted loose in a 1 3/4” wide Pine Frame stained with Minwax Mahogany and finished with Clear Gloss Polyurethane. The EP is a copy of how he signed some of his photos. Another, totally different project that I completed nearly at the same time as “Elvis” is a cartoon image, again that I found on-line, of “Wile E Coyote” displaying a HELP sign. This project adds to my other cartoon characters like the Pink Panther and Cockerel that I made a while back. I guess I need to find a decent image of the Road Runner to add to the collection. The cut panel is a hand painted 5/32” x 11” x17” solid Core Maple Ply that is affixed to a Hand Painted 1/4” thk BB Ply backer. And as usual, the assembled panel is protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. The assembled panel is mounted loose in a 1 3/4” wide Pine Frame that was simply primed and painted with Glidden Gloss Black. Comments and critiques are always welcome.

Love both. Great cutting and finishing.

Well done. That really came out nice. Curious, why so small for a welcome sign? And, will they be mounted back to back on a common backer?

If is adheasive paper (like a label) soak good with mineral spirits/white spirits and the remaining pattern should come off easily. Clean any residual glue with a mineral spitit dampend rag. Let dry throughly. Only now can you try careful sanding. A thin application of wood filler may be able to save the work, but it will probably need to be painted in order to hide the damaged/filled areas.

The following plaques are all 1/8” thk BB Ply cut panels mainly using Pegas #1 MGT R blades and mounted onto 1/2” sanded ply backers and intended to be hung outdoors. These projects were all rather quick cuts. Cut panels and backers are painted with combination of Krylon Spray Can Paints and Artist Acrylics. After assembly, the finished plaques were protected with multiple coats of rattle can spray Clear Gloss Polyurethane. Most of the cutting were positive images that I used the “washer” method to create backers that were slightly larger and perimeter and parallel to the cuttings. The exception was the 'Hello Fall' Image that is a negative resulting in a rectangular panel that I mounted permanently in a 3/4” wide rabbeted pine frame stained Minwax Honey. I could have simply rounded or chamfered the corners and left as a plaque like the others, but I just prefer to hide the exposed edges, of this style plywood/panel plaque, with a frame. The patterns were repurchased in downloadable zipp files that contained various JPG, PDF, SVG along with some other files. They are stencil patterns that I slightly modified to make more scrollable and added the words ’Hello Fall’ or ‘Welcome’ to. I purchased other stencil patterns at the same time, but they are predominantly Halloween images, and I was looking mainly for Fall. The Pumpkin in a Hat Image is for my Grandson for his new home and it will serve for both Fall and Halloween. I’ll hang the Bat on my house for a short time around Halloween. Halloween is very quiet in in our neighborhood with very few “Trick or Treaters”. I don’t really consider these pieces to be in the “ART” category. So, they were not made to be sold. They are all gifts to Myself as well as my Son, Daughter, Grandson and my next door Neighbors. Hung for a few weeks until winter sets in and then put away until next year to be replaced with the Santa portraits I made for both myself and them last year. Hello Fall Sign, Overall 12" x 18" Pumkin Welcome Sign, nom 11" x 17" (I made two stack cutting both cut panels and backers) Happy Fall Y'all Sign, Nom 10" x 10" (Aslo made two by stack cutting...attempt at the black shading was not too great) Pumpkin in Hat Welcome Sign, nom 11" x 12" Halloween Bat Welcome Sign, nom 11" x 17" Boo Pumpkin Welcome Sign, nom 10 "X 16" (pic taken before finish Poly was applied) As usual, comments and critiques are welcome.

You are correct when you say " A copyright protects the the creator from someone stealing his work." My opinion is simply that Copyright applys to the "pattern" (in these discussions) that are available for sale from the originator or his/her agent. Wnen such patterns are reproduced and redistributed for sale, the copyright law is most difinitively being broken. I don't believe there is anyone participating in this discussion that actually feels otherwise. However, unless the image itself is copyrited/trademarked, like corporate Logos and Emblems, the resulting product/image produced from a/any pattern is not, again in my opinion, subject to copy protection and the seller of the pattern cannot ligitamately stipulate what the product rpoduced from said pattern can be used for. If myself and othes really believed this truly the extent of copyright protection, then most of us should just pull the plug on our saws as should embroiders, tatoo artist, any and all crafters and artist...... I could go on and on, but there is no point. I don't consider myself breaking any laws intentionally or even unintentionally. I sell my work and not somebody elses even when I use somebody elses pattern.

I was only refering to the product made from a pattern, and not the pattern itself. I trully believe a pattern maker can not actually control what the user of a pattern does with a finish product made from such pattern. Of course, there are limitations here, when any actual resulting image is copyrighted such as corporate logo's, emblems, etc. Then it is not the work but the image itself that is protected. I believe, just stating "you can buy my pattern but can't sell the product made from it" is simply nonsence. Again only my opinion.

In just my humble opinion, reference to copyright only applies to the pattern itself and can not be applied to the product produced from them. I believe most patterns, stencils, images etc. found on-line, although they may state "copyright protected" are not unless associated with major corporations or actual book publishers. Just too costly for most creaters to bother with. Those who sell other peoples work are really the ones who are in the wrong, Steve Good's recent email, being a good example of this problem. Therefore, I can appreciate that a pattern I purchase should not be redistributed and sold for profit. However, once I purchase a copy it is mine to share, give away or transfer ownership. If the seller states "only purchasing a license for use" he/she is being nieve, and again, such a statement sounds good but is uninforcable. I also am of the opinion that particular patterns, produced by certain makers that state on their Website (or even on the pattern intself), that the pattern can not be used to produce commercial products, must be smoking something. It sounds very powerful but, I believe, a totally uninforcable statement. That is kind of like an Art paint manufacturer saying you can buy their paint but cannot sell a painting done with their paint. Too dumb for words. Also, patterns are simply suggestions fo making a resulting image, not unlike a coloring book or paint by numbers kit. Even the smallest deviation from the pattern, makes it unique and no longer what was sugggested. AND WE ALL DEVIATE, DON'T WE? If you don't mess with highly recognizable LOGO's or products by major organizations, like a Harley Davidson, copyright infringement being detected/determined and/or even verified, in any of our scroll saw work and/or our product sales is highly unlikely. I know a there are those wno will not agree with me regarding all or parts of the above, but as I stated, they are only my opinions and how I chose to operate.

Nicely done. I mainly think "Big" but sometimes "Tiny" is rally nice. JFYI,: I use Inkscape to convert, modifiy and size patterns. I position the pattern on a document/paper size I know my printer can print predetermining what my final cutting size will be. In my case I use standard US sizes (Letter 8.5x11 and Tabloid 11x17) which I keep in my Epson ET-16600 paper trays as well as and (Super B 13" x 19") that I can feed by hand. As an example, I will use the tabloid 11x17 paper size for an 11X14 pattern. Should I want or need to resize the pattern it is simply a matter of opening the SVG file and re-sizing as desired and then repeating the process. However, I do not print directly from Inscape as I have had problems doing so also. Whne I'm satisfied with the pattern I've created in Inkscape, I simply (after first saving the SVG file) do a "save as" and select PDF. I then open the PDF in Adobe and use it to print, making sure I select the proper "paper size" and other settings like "full size". I maintain the original JPG or PNG image file, my converted SVG file and the PDF file for each pattern I've cut or possibly plan to cut in the future. I have a lot that are ready to be printed plus many image files that still need to be converted into a scrollable pattern. And, just for a little bit more information. I have used Inkscape to create an Image (PNG) file, but have found a better alternative. There is a free program at https://pdf2jpg.net/ that you can use to convert a PDF directly into a JPG file. This freebee service is real quick and comes in handy on occasion.

Had to go to the Metric converter...nom 19" x 14". Nice large cutttings, very well done. Frames look great. Intersting names/species of wood you have down there. Would love to try some but not going to pay significan shipping cost just to try it out.

material cost + (hours worked x say $15 or how much you consider your time is worth) + desired profit, say maybe 1000% (or maybe more realalistily 10%). I'm happy when I can recoup my material costs, but that is just me.

Very, very nice. Looks like BB ply cut panel< yes? What is the backer and what kind of paint did you use?

From looking at the grain, I would guess Poplar. KInd of the typical Poplar light and dark areas. Looks like Wichta has finished with some stain. I like them also. He done good!

Silverline Tools - Dome Sanding Mop - 75mm 240 Grit Silverline Tools 100mm Silverline 240 Grit Dome Sanding Mop Mityvac Silverline Tools - Dome Sanding Mop - 50mm 240 Grit Silverline Tools Check these out on Amazon. From UK. They work good removing fuzzies with out damaging the cutting. I have all, but predomently use the 100mm

Very well done.