FrankEV

Do you,or anyone else who has wheels on their stool, have any problem staying in place while scrolling? I have a very ucomfortable cheap shop stool without wheels that I would like to replace.

I actually created my own from an on-line image. My cut was the mirror image of yours. This was the original Image I used Thia is the pattern I made. Tree of Life 2.pdf

I cut that TOL a while ago. Nice pattern. Should look great when finished.

Very well done. The recipients will love them. I made this peice many moons ago when I first started to Scroll. Mine looked good but your look much better.

I predominantly use ply for cuttings and pine or poplar for frames, so most if the scrap is not reusable. I keep a lot of the larger pieces of ply that are large enough for small cutting panels. However, don't cut to many smaller pieces. The stockpile is getting quite large.

See, I told you so!. The oversize backer and rustic frame makes the cutting stand out. I might not have gone so dark with the frame, but I'm guessing you did not have a choice with the wood you used. Overall a nice presentation.

I lost two fruit trees I had in my back yard due to the severe cold snap we had this past Winter and they needed to be removed. I filled in one tree area with sod, but the other was partially in my paver patio. After removing the tree and replacing some of the pavers I decided to build a fire pit to enjoy next fall when the weather cools off. After many trips to and from Lowes, this 30” square fire pit is the result of my efforts as shown in these pics. Those 3.5” x 7.5” x 11.5” blocks are heavy. I used 48 of them plus 32 of the small spacer blocks. My aching back! I have a trash can next to my saw that gets a lot of the waste pieces I cut out. This material, along with other trash and trimmed off strips have been going out on garbage pickup days, and presumably winding up in the landfill. Upon completing the fire pit build, I realized that I will be needing Firewood and, of course, kindling. The wood cut outs and other trim pieces I generate will make excellent kindling. So now I need two buckets next to the saw…one for wood the other for trash. I think this is a win-win for both the environment and me. And, BTW, sawdust is a great fire starter. I usually turn my sawdust, collected in my vacuum system, into my garden beds, but now I will save some to use in the fire pit. Just a litle bit of useless but important information for your reading pleasure.

I don't buy longer than 8' because of storage space in my small shop. However, If you find a nice clean clear grain 12" wide board, it is more $ up front, but cheaper per frame. In Poplar, I usually on by 6' lengths, which is long enough to make frmes up to 11x17.

All very very nice. I really like the use of the oversized backers to create the matt-like inside frame. The frames are all very well done with nice neat and tight corner miters. The natural rustic frames go very well with the cuttings. If and when you make frames for, say "less rustic" subjects, if you buy the little more pricy premium pine found in Lowes or HD, you can avoid knots that would detract from a less rustic frame. This is especially true if you plan to piant the frames as it is impossible to hide the knots even with paint. I comb through the wood bin to find the clearest boards I can find for my frames. And I buy the widest boards (min 8" but preferably 12") that I rip down to 1 3/4" wide sticks. It is the most economical way if you plan to make a lot of frames.

From 1984 til 2013, I taught Ballroom Dancing as a side job. Each year we attended dance conventions where we demonstrated dance routines. A Black tux and a White Dinner Jacket was common attire for these proformances and the formal Galas that were held. Since retiring from teaching dancing, my white dinner jacket kinda turned a bit yellow from hanging in our closet for 10 years. So I baught a new one with the Black collar to take on this past cruise and some future cruises and vacations we have planned. I really don't mind getting gussied up for the appropriate occasion...otherwise Florida garb is almost exclusively shorts and Tee shirts.

Like others, glad you are on the mend healthwise. Very nicely done cutting. An unframed presentation is fine if the backer edge is not too visible. If you used an oversized backer at least 1 inch all around, a nice rustic frame would work. I feel the image should have been made a little smaller or a larger board used to create more free space around the image. The presentation sort of looks squashed to me. The proportions of the board just are just not right, again to me.

We just returned this past Sunday from an eight day/seven night cruise to Nassau, Ocean Cay, Balize and Costa Maya. We were very lucky, although quite windy every day, we had Sunny Skys and no rain for the entire week. There was a formal evening on Wednesday where we got to dress up and it was a good opportunity to have a nice picture taken of us in our dress up attire. Of course, we had to buy a package of five Photos, one of which was a large 10” x 14” print which I used for this project. Steve Good recently sent an email with a Scroll Saw pattern of a frame for a 5” x 7” photograph that caught my attention. It took me quite a bit of time to convert his pattern to fit an 11” x 14” Frame. I also had to modify the oval to suit the print. Did a lot of cutting of the paper prints of the pattern to make sure things lined up correctly. The biggest modification to the pattern was reducing the width of the edges down to 3/16” so they are hidden under the frame. I did most of the cutting with Pegas #0 Spiral while the long straight edge cuts and the oval was done using a Pegas #1 MGT R Blade. The Oval is cut in what was the 1/8” thick hard board back panel of the commercial frame I used and primed and painted rattle can gloss White. The fancy corner filigree panel is cut from 5/32” thick solid core Maple, primed and painted rattle can Flat Black and attached to the White panel with just a bunch of dots of CA Glue. The picture is mounted to a 1/4” thick BB Ply backer, that was sealed with clear lacquer, with just some photo mounting tape in the 4 corners. The three layers are fitted in the frame under Glass and mounted to the frame with 1/8” frame mounting clips since the total thickness of the panels and glass is greater than the depth of the rabbet in the frame. I also installed a wire hanger on this piece as it is really about the photograph and not the scroll work. This framed photo will hang in our home if I can rearrange hanging pieces to free up some wall space. Comments and critiques of the Scroll Work welcome. OK, if you must you can make fun of us in the photo also! Don’t forget I’m going to be 81 next month.

Great job on all three cuttings and I particularly like the Frames. The rough material works for the images and the corner splined joints are real well done. Something I should do, but I just use "V" nails to reinforce the glued joint. Also, Kodos to Grandpa for well done Patterns.

Nice job, nice pattern, well done! Wondering about how you made the many small cuts in nose area, ears, etc.? Are they mostly vain-like/single line cuts using just a large blade or were they each actual "holes" having a perimeter pattern line requiring a very small blade. If the latter, you said "Time-intensive", and I can see why.

If anyone wants my version, the pattern can be found in: Pattern Central, New Pattern Announcements.

Here is my version of a sign with the saying Judy (chellcass) found and posted in New Pattern Announcements. When my Lady saw it she said please make me a sign with that saying on it for my Birthday (which isn’t until August). I think she wants to hang it over her desk at work…not sure the boss will be happy with it! Well impatient me, I couldn’t wait. So, I used Scroll-Calligraphy Font and developed a pattern for this sign cut with Pegas #2/0 Spiral blades in an 5/32x8x10 Solid Core Birch Ply panel affixed to a 1/4” Solid Core Walnut Ply backer that was stained to darken with Minwax Dark Walnut. The frame is a 1/2” wide Pine shadow box type primed and Painted a rattle can spray satin Dark Brown. Comments and critiques always welcome.

The word is: y'all

I "almost" misspelled It, but didn't. If I had, just like my previous misspelling of Bonny, when I cut Boney instead of Bonny. It was noticed and I heard about it.

Could not have my Pirate Art Panel collection with only Female Pirates. I was able to find a B&W image of Black Bart, that was much like the one I used for Mary Read. The conversion was time consuming but resulted in a scrollable pattern. The pattern is quite busy so, as a result, it was necessary to add many bridges after the cutting began. All cutting was done with Pegas #2/0 Spiral blades. The Cut panel is 5/32” Solid Core Maple Ply affixed to a 1/4” thick BB Ply backer painted Black. From my research, Black Bart was a fierce Pirate, but even during battles he would always be dressed in very fancy clothing. He was known to always have worn a large gold cross hanging on a gold chain. The coloration of this cutting, done with Artist Acrylics, is purely out of my imagination of what his clothing may have l looked like. The Frame is 1 3/4” wide Pine, primed and painted Black. While cutting his name, I almost misspelled “Bartholomew”. Did not want to have a repeat of a misspelling like I did with the Anne Bonny Cutting. Comments and critiques always welcome.

Your box is great. Boxes are fun to make and yes, time consuming, but worth it when they come out nice. For that reason, and for as much time and effort you put in to making this box, I feel you could have use a better species of wood. Pine does not take stain well. Alos, if it was me making this box, I would have installed backers on the inside of the box walls, of a contrasting material (like the Cameo), and then added a felt or other type lining. Open lattice type boxes lack practicality, which I think most would prefer to have.

Those holders are very nice...kodo's to your other half. Mine is a little simpler, just a flat piece of 1/4 " thick wood of some kind mounted to the side of my Pegas Saw. Very convienent since I break a lot of blades. Seventeen holes for tubes. Would not know what to do with more tubes. There must be something wrong with me because I could get away with a lot less. Out of the seventeen, five have Sharktoot blades which I haven't used since first starting to scroll, two have Flying Duchmen blades that I have been planning to try but havn't yet, two are empty, and eight have various sizes and types of Pegas Blades I use on a regular basis. For most of the fretwork type of cutting I do, I use mostly small spiral blades, occasionally some midsize MGT R Blades and once in a while a large MGT or Skip tooth blade for thick material or those large thick circular/oval outdoor plaque backers. I'm not a blade aficionado. I stick with mainly with my go-to blades, like #2/0 spiral #1 MGT R and #5 MGT or Skip Tooth. I do go through a lot of the #2/0 spiral so I purchase them by the gross. Others I havn't had to buy more in a long time.

The multi species sides was only because I did not have enough material of one kind. The entire project was an experiment and a learning endevour. Hope what ever is keeping you out of the shop gets better quickly.

First, let me say the overall project is fantastic. But to your comment above, I/m afraid I can't agree with you at all. I predominently cut very detail fretwork in nom 1/8" panels and never have any problems with doing so one thickness at a time. I do use a better grade panel than common BB Ply which does help and I predomintly use spiral blades. I can maintain good control and usualy able to stay withisn the cut out area, but even then I do occasionally cut through and a piece may be cut out. Sometime CA glue is your best friend. When you cut thin material, you really need to use small blades and slow the saw way down in order to be able to maintain control. Don't hurry the cut and let the saw do the work.

As many of you do, I receive daily Email from Steve Good with his Scroll Saw projects. Most of his projects are not my “cup of tea”. However, every now and then one of his projects will grab my interest. Earlier this week I downloaded his pattern for a solid wood Rose Vase which I decided to experiment with and make with a few modifications. The major modification was that I wanted both the front and back to have the rose image cutout and have solid backers that I could use to apply color to the image. I knew I did not have any significant quantity of a specific hardwood in stock that I could use to make it and did not want to purchase any right now. However, I did have a verity of cut offs of Maple and Walnut that were of the correct size that I decided to use. I was able to find six pieces, all of which were 1/4” thick, except one piece was only 3/16” thick. Also, the number of available pieces allowed me to make one face Walnut and the other face Maple, another modification to the design. Since this is a vase, the middle two pieces - the 3/16” and one 1/4” would be cut to form the internal cavity. First, I stack cut the full six layers to the rough outside configuration using a Pegas #5 skip tooth blade. Second, I stack cut the Rose Image in the front and back piece using Pegas #1 MGT R blades. Should have flipped the finished face of the back over so the image would face the same way but I didn’t. So, the Front and back face in opposites directions, but that was OK with me. Third, I stack cut the middle two layers to form the cavity, again using the Pegas #5 skip tooth blade. Here again I did not follow the pattern. I started the cut, following the pattern at the mouth of the vase, but simply cut a straight down rectangle from the inside of bulge near the top. This added significant rigidity and glue surface to the middle pieces. After adding my color with Artist Acrylics to the backers, the glue up was straight forward. First the middle two pieces, the two front pieces, and the two back pieces were individually glued together. Then I glued the three assembly’s together to form the completed vase. Although all the layers were originally stack cut, the final glued up stack was not perfectly lined up and a bit of sanding was needed with both my bench belt sander and my rotary oscillating sander to flush up and smooth all the perimeter sides. Finally, I eased all the sharp corners with sanding sponges and fine hand sanded all surfaces with 220 grit sponges and then 600 grit Wet/Dry Sandpaper. The finish is multiple coats of Clear Gloss Lacquer. This Rose Vase will be given to my Lady and occupy a place in our home. She already loves it!!!!!!! Hoping this lengthy dialog was not too boring. Comments and critiques always welcome.

Very well done. I like it a lot. Wondering what Glue do you use? I guessing CA, if correct...Thick, Medium or Thin? And, do you glue every contact point on every ring?