FrankEV

I have made this bird feeder about 6 times now. Up till now I have used plywood and each has disintegrated in a matter of a year or so. I was looking to purchase a marine grade plywood for this latest one but could not find any locally and to order on-line, the price was too high. I decided to try a different approach. Western Red Cedar. Cedar fences seem to last for many years, so maybe thisbird feeder will last for a while. I obtained the plans for this feeder a number of years ago. This version uses a modified version of the original scrollwork pattern and I have deviated significantly from their plans for the roof construction. I own a 12” planer but not a jointer. The maximum width available is eight inches, and I needed pieces up to 14” wide, so I was forced to edge join pieces to cut the parts from. I planed the rough nominal ¾” stock down to ½” and used biscuits however the joints were not all tight. Used lots of glue and sawdust to fill the joints. I wanted to make better looking sloping roof joints. So, after lots of calculations and some testing I finally got the four triangular roof pieces cut to the right size but unfortunately, I still did not figure out correctly what the bevel cut angle should be, so the pieces meet to form a nice joint, but I had to use scraps to fill the joints from the back side. Fortunately this is hidden by the inside ceiling of the feeder box. The scroll saw cut side walls were easy cutting using a Pegs #5 MGT R blade. I did not try to sand the cedar to a smooth finish. Where needed I used 80 grit paper to sand with, leaving a somewhat rough finish. Also, I was going to keep the cedar natural and let it turn grey/silver over time. However, my lady wanted it to be white, so I stained it white and then applied a coat of Polyurethane. The stain is somewhat transparent, so the grain still shows a little and the “Clear” Poly actually turned the white stain a little yellow. I don’t think the birds will care. Squirrels love to get to the bird seed, so I have two deterrents. First the metal pole is electrified so when the squirrels try to climb the pole, they get a shock. They learn fast not to climb the pole, but they still can jump over to the feeder from a nearby Fig tree. I have added a row of pointy nails facing out to the bottom piece where they land when they jump. Hoping they get stuck by the nails and learn not to jump. Not sure if this will work. They are smart critters. Here is a couple of pics. Aa always, comments and critiques are welcome.

Very nice work. I don't think I've ever seen one. I have done a lot of birds and this one would be nice to add to my collection. Any chance of sharing the pattern in the "New pattern Announcements" Would be much appreciated.

The Butterfly patterns were converted from various free images I found on-line. The Butterflies were cut from 5/32” solid core Birch and are approximately 10” x 7.5” which I primed and then painted with rattle can Krylon Gloss Black. The Backer is 1/4” x 12” x 24” BB Ply that was hand painted with Acrylic Artist paints. I used photos of real Butterflies to get an idea of the colors. The assembled panel was protected with Minwax Clear Gloss Polycrylic. From top to bottom they are: Monarch, Papillio Ulysses, and Papillio Machaon. Lots of other images were available but the wing patterns of most were just too intricate to convert to a Cuttable Scroll Saw Pattern. The frame is 1 3/4” wide premium Pine that was primed and painted Glidden Gloss Black. Comments and critiques always welcome.

Go to Nrw Pattern Announcements. Already posted there. Where you locsted in Florida?

I’ve mentioned before that we have many cube type tissue boxes scattered around our house. Allergy reactions – sniffles, watering eyes, etc. - to everything Florida offers makes handy access to tissues a necessity. These two make a total of seven and I really need to make yet one more for my workshop. The covers are made like the previous, mainly using 5/32” solid core Maple Plywood cut offs, from my previous portrait projects, that I found in my scrap wood bin. All corners are simple miters done on the Table Saw. Of course, I did have to develop two new patterns for these covers that were cut using Pegas #2/0 spiral blades. The pattern for one cover is ‘Cranes and Palm Trees’ while the other is a simple ‘Sunflower’. The interior backers were hand painted with Artist Acrylic paints and, like before, the covers were protected with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Deft Lacquer. I’ll post the pdf’s for the patterns in the New Patters Announcements.

Very well done! Beautiful overall. If you are not going to use a backer, I could visualize seeing the cutouts filled with a colored epoxy/resin like others have used and previously shown herein.

If you apply a light coat of clear spray sealer, polycrylic or even lacquer prior to painting, you can eliminate paint bleed. Another way is to prime the areas to be painted with a acrylic Gesso. This is easier to do when painting a backer.

Very nice. I went to Paul Meisel Woodworking Website and could not find these particular patterns. Do you have a link to where you found them?

Absolutely Beautiful!

My cutting was pretty neat, so it did not require a lot of sanding. Just needed to smooth everything with a fine grit and fix up the tight intersections a little. However, cutting and sanding Padauk creates that fine red dust that gets all over everything. Although it feel dry, it stick to all surfaces like filings on a magnet.

Steve Good recently issued a pattern for a Heart Tray. I had some Maple and Padauk boards left over from the Heart Box I made back last February (https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/45466-my-version-of-dave-monk%E2%80%99s-%E2%80%98box-for-valentines-day%E2%80%99/#comment-486165). I thought the Tray would make a good companion for the Box I gave my Lady. Was going to give it to her on Christmas but she saw and claimed it already. Laminated the Maple and Padauk making the tray walls 1 1/4” high. Stack cut the outside of laminated tray walls along with the 1/8” thick maple bottom first, then after removing the bottom, cut out the interior sections. Fairly easy cutting with Pegas #5 Skip tooth Blade. Lot of hand sanding creating the red dust everywhere. Attached bottom to walls with Superglue and applied multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. Used the inside dropouts to trace and cut out the red felt bottom liner which I attached with spray adhesive. PITA to fit the sticky liner in its proper place. Comments and Critiques always welcome

Beautiful, simply beautiful! All 6 grandkids must be Artist, Draft Persons, Engineers or Architects....right ?????? I used pencils and one of those metal erasing shields for many years in my engineering carreer until the pencils were replaced by computers.. Didn't need to use it on a PC screen .

Nice work. Interesting design...looks to be somewhat oriental. What is the wood and finish?

Nobody stated the most important reason to use sawtooth hangers for scroll saw portraits and plaques. They keep the work almost flat against the wall where the wire hanger method tilts the work. Tilting is OK for paintings and such, but for proper viewing of scroll saw portraits and plaques, they should be viewed straight on, vertically flat to the wall, and hung about eye level, to be best enjoyed. Also, I have not found any of my work, even up to 18"x 24 and framed, to be too heavy for just one small drive in saw tooth hanger and the piece hung on the wall with just a small headed 3/4" long brad. And, generally plaques made of cuttings mounted on 1/2" ply or solid wood are not very heavy either and one sawtooth hanger works well. For some of the same reasons, I only cut my portrait work in 1/8" thick material that is mounted on a 1/4" backer for rigidity. I find the visability of the vertically cut edges in work cut in thicker materials is very distracting, especially when viewed from any vantage other than straight on. A quick edit: If I was to make a large heavy cutting (like maybe a wall hanging sculptured piece), my choice for a hanger would be the French Cleat. Keeps work nearly flat to wall, easy to plumb, available in many sizes, and is very strong.

I tested this app on a few different script fonts. It works to some degree but it doesnt take care of loops like often found in letters like "L's" and "k's". In some letters it actually adds more brides than necessary. Great app where it works, but not overly usefull IMHO. I wish some of those talented font designers would develope a series of scrollable script fonts fo us.

I developed this Fairy Night Light pattern from free silhouettes I found on -line. The lamp body is cut from 1/4” solid Cherry x 4 1/2" square. The top and bottom are made from 1/2” solid Cherry x 5 1/2” Square. For this lamp, the overall height of the lamp is only 10 1/4” due to the body panel pattern layout I developed. The cutting was mainly done with Pegas #2/0 spiral blades while I used Pegas #1 MGT R blade for the straight cuts around the perimeter. I Stack cut only two panels at one time as the connections from the image to the surrounding frame area are VERY TINY. I was very careful during cutting not to cut through any, but, yes, some got broken in handling. However, we all know superglue is a scrollers best friend. This lamp is the fourth I have made basically using the same construction techniques. I have found I can make all the miters on the Table Saw and have developed clamping methods that provide me with relatively neat joints that I can live with. And, I now have a good grip on the step by step construction process so I don’t get things messed up assembly wise. From conception, my idea was to make this lamp for a young girl, so it had to be “PINK”. I ordered the wood from Ocooch Hardwoods and the Plexi through Amazon a while back, and was just waiting for a reason to make the lamp. Christmas is coming and a gift for my Granddaughter became the reason I was waiting for. My Granddaughter, who is a young adult lady, still loves Fairies. And as we all know, Cherry wood is not actually Pink, so I had to stain it. I used five (5) parts Minwax Natural stain and one (1) part Minwax Barn Red to get a light pink color stain which after application, was immediately wiped off making the wood just “PINK” enough. The 1/8” thick translucent Plexi panels are also Pink and frosted with an application of velum affixed to the interior surface with spray adhesive. The lamp was finished with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. The electrical components are again just a candelabra bulb base mounted on a threaded nipple through the bottom, a pre-made lamp cord that I added a in-line switch to, and a LED Candelelabra equivalent 25W bulb. Edit: Unlit view And BTW, my first Grandson came along when I was only 40. I said I was too young to be called a Grandfather...so just call me "Grumps". It stuck with all my Grandchildren to this day. Figured I needed to sign and date this lamp for her. I’ll post the plans in the New Pattern Announcements. Comments and critiques always welcome

Great job. Very well done. What is the overall finished size?

Very nice job. I have never used Basswood, so these are just my thoughts. Since the Basswood is very white and the grain is not prevalent, I might consider applying a simple neautral stain that will darken (slightly yellow) the overalll blank. you might also consider using a small brush, and using a slightly darker stain, like Pecan or Honey, paint the image to improve its readability, Nothing fancy, just keep the darker stain within the image itself. Now, I'm an avocatre of finishing my panels with a durable protective coating like Lacquer or polyurethane. If by any chance this plaque is to be displayed outside, I would recommend multiple coats of clear gloss poly. As an alternative, no stain, but some handpainting of the Image with Artist Acrylic Paints would bring the image to life on the very light color background. Easy to select colors: Yelow Helmet, blue pants, any color shirt, black boots/belts, brown pole and roap, etc. Then finish with a Clear satin Polycrylic protective coating. Many options. Show us what you do!!!!! I have this image and have been just waiting for the right opportunity to cut it.

The Sleigh Image was a free downloadable zip file that included a SVG file which I was able to manipulate in Inkscape. I sized the image to fit within an oval I created (approximately 11 1/2” x 15 1/2”) that I cut from a piece of 1/2” x 12” x 16” sanded ply. The image was cut from 1/8” thick BB ply. The backer was painted white with Krylon rattle can paint. I used Artist Acrylics to paint the cut panel (originally image was only B&W) and the perimeter vertical edge of the backer. The assembled Plaque was protected with multiple coats of Clear Minwax Polycrylic finish. Just another Xmas decoration that will be stored away 11 months of the year. Comments and critiques welcome.

Very Nice. I know the photos can lie sometimes, but I can't see anything wrong with your painting skills.

Absolutely great work. Wish I had the patience.

Almost every job gets better, but I also throw away a lot more.

I'm working hard on just being able to blend my colors a little. I would probably do well as an Astract Expressionism painter if I just throw the paint at the canvas!

I converted this Tiger image I found on-line into a 12” x 16” Scroll saw pattern. The cut panel is 5/32” Birch solid core ply affixed to a painted black 1/4"thick BB ply backer. Cutting was done using Pegas #2/0 and #1 spiral blades. The cut panel was hand painted with Artist Acrylic paints. The assembled panel was protected with multiple coats of Minwax Clear Gloss spray Polycrylic finish. Panthers was a free downloadable SVG file I found on-line. Although it was a SVG file, it required work to resize it into a 12” x 15” scrollable pattern. This pattern has well over 500 small cutouts and although very easy cutting, it was time consuming to complete. I used about 15 Pegas #2/0 spiral blades due to a lot of blade breakage caused by blade kinking, as a result of the many very small blade hole threading’s required. The cut panel is 5/32” Maple solid core ply affixed to a painted black 1/4"thick BB ply backer. This cut panel was also hand painted with Artist Acrylic paints and the assembled panel protected with multiple coats of Minwax Clear Satin spray Polycrylic finish. Although I have consistently used clear spray lacquer to protect the assembled panels in the past, I’m giving the clear spray Polycrylic a try. Although it looks very wet with a milky blue color when first applied, it dries quickly to a clear hard finish. A very light sanding with 1500 grit paper between coats results in a nice smooth finish. Polycrylic is quite a bit more expensive than Lacquer, but it is more compatible with the Acrylic Artist paints I use. The frames for both are 1 3/4"wide Poplar, primed and painted with Glidden spray Gloss Black. As always, comments and critiques are welcome. I will post PDF’s of these patterns in New Pattern Announcements.

Absolutely great work on the cutting and frames. Dad's Garage reminds me of the posters of the 40's and 50's.