FrankEV

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No, just finished. I was thinking I might see if they wouild like to hang it on loan.

I live in Ormond Beach Florida. I found on-line, some very old B&W photos of famous places here in Ormond Beach, one of which is the Ormond Hotel from back in 1894. It is now called the “Ormond Heritage Condominium” but looks amazingly like it did in its heyday. Here is the Photo. I posted a copy of this photo on 6/19 in Pattern Central/ Pattern Requests with a request for someone to help me out with a pattern. Grampa (Paul) stepped up and produced a Pattern for me. Thank you, Paul. From his pattern I was able to modify it a little (well maybe a bit more than a little). Paul’s pattern is a very simplistic representation of the hotel in the photo as the photo is very grainy and lacked sharp detail. So, I decided to take some artistic liberties to enhance the image to present a credible image while trying to maintain the original image of the hotel itself. Using Paul’s pattern overlayed on the Photo I was able to add lot of details to the trees and bushes, even adding some Palm leaves so the tree trunks look like trees and not poles. There are some trees in the photo on the right side that interfered with view of the building so I eliminated them for clarity. The cutting is 5/32”x12”x18” Solid Core Maple Ply mounted on a1/4” thick BB Ply backer simply painted with Krylon rattle can spray Flat Black. I used various Pegas spiral and regular blades to cut the pattern. As none of the line work was straight, it was necessary to take a lot of liberties during the cutting. Most apparent is the baluster spacing of the Hand Railing. I protected the assembled panel with multiple coats Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. The frame is 2 ¾” wide 5/4” thick pre-primed molding. I used a frame making router bit to produce the profile. The cutting was not as good as I expected and although I did a lot of both machine and hand sanding, the defects became obvious (in the photo) after the frame was primed and painted. From a viewing distance it doesn’t look tooooo bad. The Paint is a Glidden MAX-FLEX rattle can spray product called Phantom Hue (Silver) in a Satin finish that dries quickly and lays very flat and is supposed to be very durable. Critiques and comments welcome.

Did you do the delicate patterns on the platters using an engraver or a wood burning pen?

If you read any of my posts you know I color my work, primarily with Artist Acrylic Paints. I would be happy to give your process a try. So if you still need testers, please feel free to send my the patterns and info. The Geese look intesting. Thanks

I learning about colors. However, I try to use something to go by to select my colors. In this case the Illustration is in color and I basically did what the original artist did. In other cases I will look at photos of the real subjects. The hardest part is blending the paints to get the colors correct. Not alwasys easy. Yes I do use Minwax pre-stain wood conditioner before staining. It is supposed to reduce blochyness, but does not always work. That is one reason I keep trying new stain colors. This Fruitwood color worked well with the Poplar. First coat brushed on and then wiped off in about two minutes, let dry well. Second was a thin coat, applied uniformaly with a foam brush and allowed to dry throughly. No bloches or streaks. It was the first time I used a throw-a-way foam brush to apply stain...It may be the trick to uniform application. Gonna have to try with some of the dark stains that tennd to be blochy and streak.

Had to look this word up. Informal Ausie word usage for "something Impressive". I'll take it...thank you!

Converted a H Donovan illustration to a 11’ x 17” scroll saw pattern. Cut panel is 5/32” solid core Maple mounted on a hand painted ¼” thk BB Ply backer. Hand painting done using Artist Acrylic Paints. Panel cutting done using Pegas #0 spiral blades. Assembled panel is protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. Frame is my typical 1 ¾” wide Poplar stained with Minwax Fruitwood and finished with multiple coats of Minwax Clear Gloss Wipe-on Poly. Tried the Fruitwood stain, a new color for me. I like the way it looks for a light color frame on some nice clear pieces of Poplar that I used. As always, comments and critiques welcome and appreciated.

I've looked at this option from time to time. It is a good option but it is also a custom made item if you want it to include a signature, which I was looking for. The custom irons are not cheap. My other problem with the Iron is I like to date my work, so I would still have to use a burning pen to add the date, Have no idea what a small laser engraver cost is but it may not be too much more than a custom Iron, and it can be used for other supplemental details on a scroll piece. I have also entertained this idea but just have not done any research, so answers to rays question would be welcomed by me and others as well, I'm sure. Update Edit: I watched Steves Video and did some research. And yes, a small engraver is less expensive than a custom Branding Iron. KKmoon makes a small engraver that lists for around $113 that has great reviews but, unfortunately, it is so popular that it is Out Of Stock and there is no indication when if will be available. It appeared to be the perfect choice for my wants. So the next choice is the unit Steve reviewed, but no longer avaialble on Amazon. Howwver, I did find it available at Walmart: KKmoon 7000mw Desktop Engraver Portable Engraving Carving Machine Mini Carver DIY Mark Printer for Metal Engraving and Deep Wood Engraving and Cutting $219.99 +tax. There are a ton of laser engraving products, but I kind of liked the fact this unit works with Inkscape. And the unit can be position on any size board. I want the engraver to predominently add my Logo,Signature and Date to the back of my panels. I've been using a burning pen in the past, but would like to have something more professional looking. So, I decided to jump in and order it. There is a 30 day return policy if I don't like it.

I posted the pattern on Feb 11 in New Pattern Announcements

Like wombatie I was expecting to see a cutting of a Ford Tbird. Like this a lot more. Great cutting and coloring. The black border around the assembled panel works very well. The frame is well done. How did you do the coloring? Spray cans?

WOW, what more can I say. As said earlier you are a better (more patient) man than me for sure.

I can not speak to using any kind of indoor living space being used to do scroll saw work. From my experience though, even a small amount of dust will penetrate every nick and granny and stick to any and all surffaces whether hard or soft. Even deligent regular cleaning will not eliminate all of the dust and if you expect guest to use the space for sleeping the wood sawdust smell and finite particles will be difficult for them to handle. As a option, if you plan to down size, a small self owned/rented home with a bit of property would be more appropriate to aquire than a apartment or condo. when I moved to Florida I gave up a large house including a large seperate beautiful dedicated woodworking shop for a small home (actuallyjust half of a duplex) on a tiny piece of property. My home now does not even have a garage. I missed my shop and wanted to be able to do some woodworking and specifically got interested in scrolling. Even on my small piece of property I was able to install an 8'x12' Suncast Plastic shed I purchased from Lowes and turned it into my shop. I'm able to have a small dewalt contractors table saw, a small workbench, a sanding station with a bench combination belt/disk sander, a roll around Router table and my Scroll Saw. I also have tucked away in a corner a Craftsman 12" planer on a little roll around table. I do a lot of the table saw and planer work outside the double doors of the shed. I can only do short cross cuts and panel cutting on the table saw while inside. I actually have two sheds, the second being for my garden tools and storage. it is located 6" away from my shop shed. I was abel to install a small dust collector in the garden shed. I insntalled collection gates from each piece of equipment and hoses that are piped from the shop to the collector in the other shed. This keeps the noise of the collector to a minimum in the shop. All the above being said, my shop is very dusty all the time but I am happy to be able to do small wood working and scroll saw projects with out dust in my home (except what I carry in on my cloths that my lady always yells at me for). I can't imagine an indoor space that could be kept clean of the dust created by the saws, routers and sanding equipment we use regularly in our hobby. Then there is finishing to daal with..... I could go on and on. Hope this helps!

Not quite. The pics can be taken anywher you have enough light and/or even with a flash. However, bounce back can be a problem when using Flash. If you shoot outdoors overcast days are the best to minimize harsh shadows. What I mean by a neautral background is something like White, Black or my preference Light Grey back drop paper you can get a Hobby Lobby (or a Photo store) for very little cost. Comes in Rolls in various widths. For our kind of work the 48" or 54" wide is more than enough. For small items , like yor crosses, a piece of poster board would also work well. Just make sure it has a dull sheen and not high gloss that will reflect the light source.

Very well done. Whose pattern? One of the nicest cat patterns I've seen.

This Image has appeared in many Pinterest searches. Rather simple conversion to a 12” x12” scroll saw pattern. The cut panel is 5/32 solid core ply Birch (if I remember correctly) that I painted Black with Krylon rattle can All-in-one Flat Black Paint and Primer. The backer is ¼” BB Ply that I beached for a few days to get a very bright light wood “Moon” color that was then hand painted in the Grey and White areas using Artist Acrylic paints. Cutting was done with Pegas #1 Spirals and #3 MGT R. The assembled panel was protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. Frame is my typical 1 ¾” wide Poplar stained with Minwax Brazilian Rosewood Stain and protected with multiple coats of Minwax Wipe-on Clear Satin Poly. Comments and critiques always welcome.

Very nice, all are awesome. More detail info would be nice. And, I sure wish you would photograph them on a neautral background. The shine off the leather armchair is just much too annoying.

Great job. Almost looks like the top and bottom was cut on a lathe. Thanks for the reply.

Beautiful! They really look good. Question. I can see the vertical slats (for lack of a better word) were cut from a thick (3/4" ?) solid piece of wood on the scroll saw. Did you do the top and bottom on the Scroll saw also or did you use a lathe to turn them after cutting the mortices and gluing up a block?

Touching subject. Great cutting of an oviously great pattern that captures the subject really well. Kudos.

Your wifes taste is impeccable! Nice cutting.

I use my sanding mop frequently as I proceed on a large project. Maybe every 1/8 to 1/4 of the cutting area. I find by doing so, I get less drag on the cut panel allowing it to slide more smoothly while cutting. I use the torch for the final fuzzie removal. I also wax my table as soon as I feel any drag occuring.

Always use a piece of hardwood or MDF behind (if standing up) or below (if laying down flat) the cut panel when torching fuzzies. Never try to burn the fuzzies off without a back up board to prevent the flame from licking through and charring the good side. Clean up fuzzies first with a sanding mop and then use the torch moving it quite quickly like spray painting to get the last remnants of fuzzies. BTW, great work. Very well done.

Nice Work. Love the Butterfly Plaque. The silhouettes appears to have a very rough horizontal grain that the black paint did not cover completely. Was your use of such a rough grain done purposely? Probably only me, but, for me it seems to detract from the simple idea of a B on W "silhouette".

Hey Chris, thanks for the question. I use various size Artist Brushes to apply and blend the Artist Acrylics. When I have a border coler (like the Kingfisher) or if the background is a soild color I will use rattle can paint, ususally Krylon, or Stain as appropriate. When I do the Hand painting I will most often apply an Acrylic GESSO (a primer that smooths and preps the wood surface) to the backer before applying the colors. GESSO comes in both brushable and rattle can spray. I will most often use printed copies of the cut pattern as stencils to locate the various colors more accurately, and even then there are overlaps and missed spots that have to be delt with. I'm not a true artist that works in Acrylics, but I have learned one thing about applying and blending Acrylics. you have to work light to dark. It almost impossible to lighten up an area if a dark color has be applied first. And, just an aside, I have purchased a decent air brush kit and acessories almost a year ago with applying sprayable acrilics in mind. However, I have yet to put it to use, I know I addded more info then you asked for, but just hope it is of some value.