FrankEV

Only when necessary. I prefer images that I only have to color the background. However, like these, it is sometimes necessary to paint both to get the look I want.

The 11” x 14” patterns for these pieces were converted from free image’s I found on-line. All were cut in 5/32” Solid Core Ply affixed to 1/4” BB Ply backers. Cut Panels and Backers were hand painted with Artist Acrylic paints. Assembled panels protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. Cutting was done with both Pegas Regular and Spiral blades of various sizes (I really don’t remember which ones). Frames again are 1 3/4” wide premium grade pine, finished by priming and painting with Glidden Max-Flex rattle can spray of various color’s. (I noticed in the photo there is a small scratch on one that will need a touch-up coat. The Glidden Max-Flex paints dry fast to the touch but remains very soft for quite a while until fully cured.) Bamboo Snack (Birch cut panel) Leòn (maple cut panel) Peeking Raccoon (Walnut Cut panel) Comments and Critiques always welcome.

Another Cartoon character 11x14 pattern converted from a, paid for, image obtained on-line. Grumpy and I relate! Cut panel is Hand Painted 5/32” Birch Solid Core ply affixed to a 1/4” Hand Painted BB Ply Backer. Cutting was done with Pegas #1 MGT R Blade and assembled panel finished with Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. Frame is 1 3/4” wide premium Pine primed and painted with Glidden Max-Flex Brick Red Satin. Comments and critiques always welcome.

Great job Grandpa. It is great to see your young ones with something they actually made in their hands rather than an electronic device.

I like this work very much. Like some othe earlier patterns by AF, this one is the true epitome of what a great scroll pattern is. True art!

I only use the solid core project panels from Home Depot. Not cheap but a much better qualty than anything else you can buy in sheets. Available in 5/32 and 1/4 x 12 x 19.25. Boxes of 10.

Yes the lighting and the wood itself. It is walnut, but the cut off I used had been from the end of a long 16" wide board where the board was changing to areas of almost whitish coloring...new growth area I suspect. As a result it is not quite as dark as one would expect. Posssibly, I shoul have given it a quick coat of walnut stain to darken the wood a little, but in live view is looks nice as is.

Bruce (aka Blaughn) Posted back on 10/4 about his cutting of this S. Good Pattern. Well just like Bruce I happen to have a few pieces of ¾” Walnut amongst my scrap pieces that were the perfect size for the cutting and the base. Additionally, although I do not own a Piano or play an instrument, I just happen to have a need to make a piece for my collection of sculptures and this was a great choice. The sculpture is overall approximately 9 1/2” High x 6” wide. Bruce and I both deviated slightly from the original pattern in the area in the half circle just above the base. I also tapered the base about 4 degrees just to add a little more detail. And like Bruce, I finished mine with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Lacquer. Comments and Critiques always welcome.

OK, I just may be getting a bit carried away making another Cartoon Character. The Cartoon characters of my (way back when) generation that I grew up on are easily found free on-line, easily converted to scrollable patterns and after cutting, easily colored with Artist Acrylic Paints to their original simple basic colors. Yes, I understand that Copyrights and Trademarks apply to the Images so selling these pieces may not be the best Idea. However, they are fun to make and bring back a lot of fond (ahem?) memories. This Woody pattern is cut in 5/32” x 11” x17” Birch Solid Core Ply and affixed to a painted black 1/4” BB Ply backer. Cutting was done with a Pegas #1 MGT R blade. The assembled and painted panel was protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. The frame is 1 3/4” wide Pine, primed and painted Glidden Gloss Black. I prefer Polar for my frames but even the Prime Grade Pine I’m using is a lot less expensive then Poplar is. I’m currently working on a non-cartoon project, but I have a bunch of cartoon images in my files that I can convert and cut over time. Comments and Critiques always welcome.

Very well done. As a resident of the state it is very appropriate that you made it and, I'm sure, display it proudly. Oh, I do see your BooBoo .

Very nicely done. I did not see Steves Pattern for this and not sure how it is supposed to be used. Sorry, but I do know I don't like the Glass candle you show. To me it is an accident looking to happen...very easily knocked over. By adding a few more concentric riing pieces on the top, it would look great holding a standard tall candle stick, even if it was the make believe kind with and battery and bulb for a flame BTW, candle sticks usually are displayed in pairs,,,,you making the other one? .

I like color and use it a lot in my work, as iI'm sure you are well aware. However, I don't really know if it works well in layered pieces, unless you paint everything. In your piece (n the second pic.) the trees and sky look nice but the camper, in my opinion, looks unfinished. BTW, laser cut...yes?

I converted this Zebra Image I found on-line into an 11” x 12” scrollable pattern. Cut panel is in 3/32” solid core Hand Painted Birch Ply affixed to a ¼” BB ply painted Black backer. Cutting was done using Pegas #1 MGT R blades. Assembled panel protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer Frame is 1 ¾” wide primed and painted Poplar. Comments and Critiques always welcome.

I made these Steve Good Ball Ornaments for our Christmas Tree this year. Steve designed them for a Laser cutter, but they were easy to cut on a Scroll Saw. I used a lot of 3/32” solid core Maple ply cut offs. Repeated pieces were stack cut. Small details were cut with Pegas #2/0 spiral and long curves and rounds cut with Pegas #1 MGT R blade. Images were hand painted with Artist Acrylic Paints after sealing with a Krylon Spray Sealer. I did a dry fit ups of each ornament to insure all fit before glueing. Where some tab openings were too tight, I adjusted them with a small flat file. I then used Locktite Superglue Gel for assembly. After assembly, each ornament was protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. A few personal notes here: Using a plywood for these ornaments was OK as they are just for our tree, and only come out for the month of December. However, they would look much better if a solid wood was used. Also, I would have prefered Images that were viewable from both sides. The word NOEL on two of the Onaments makes the opposite view read wrong, but that is just being very picky on my part. And BTW, the center Image piece would make nice flat ornamentss just by themselves . Comments and critiques always welcome.

Cute...nice paint work. Yep, nice lawn ornament...it will be liked so much when you put it out, it will get stollen

As an ex Long Islander, the LI Woodworkers Club almost makes me wish I was back on LI....Nahh, nope, no, never!!!!! Hope it went well. Hope you update this post with some photos of the event.

I don't think that can happen Copyright protections would prevail. ACME Tools would have thought about that a long time ago. I'm not even planning to sell my Wile E Coyote or this Road Runner because I beleive it would be a breach of Copyright or Trademark. I plan to just keep them for my own enjoyment.

I purchased a packet of Road Runner SVG files on-line, although I was only looking for this one image to pair with my “Wile E Coyote Help” piece. The SVG’s have many layers and after considerable trial and error attempts, I was able to segregate all the color layers leaving only the Black outline that I was able to convert into a scrollable red/gray pattern by adding a bunch of bridges. I sized the pattern to fit nicely on a 5/32” x 11” x 14” solid core Maple Ply panel. The cut panel was affixed to an 1/4” x 11” x 14” BB Ply backer that had been painted with Krylon rattle can spray Gloss Black. After relatively easy cutting with Pegas #1 MGT R blades, the remaining interior areas was painted with Artist Acrylic Paints. I painted each visible bridge Black, so it has the appearance of the outlines being continuous. And, like usual, the assembled panel was protected by multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. The Frame is 1 3/4” wide pine painted Glidden Gloss Black. I think I will need to give the frame another coat of paint as the Pine wood grain is too visible in the photo. Comments and Critiques are always welcome.

They look great...puts mine to shame!

I'm not into crosses much, but they look good and different. Your cutting and colloring is great.

https://www.homedepot.com/s/columbia%20forest%20products%205%2F32?NCNI-5 I mostly use the 5/32" x 12" x 19.25" Maple.Project panels that come in a box of 10. Price has increased significantly in recent times...like everything else.

In a post under Q&A, OCtoolguy was asking about use of Thin MDF. In his post he happened to show a pic of a Tissue Box cover he was making that had an image of a Palm Tree on its sides. This reminded me that I needed to make a couple more cube type tissue box covers for my home, and a Palm Tree would be a good image for my Florida home. And, as you are aware in Florida, pollen is prevalent, so allergy siffles and sneezing results in tissue boxes being all over the house. I had previously made a Hummingbird Cube tissue box cover for my lady’s desk and then a Seahorse cover for one of our end tables. I needed another one for my desk and another for the other End Table. Using the same building techniques as previously with mitered joinery, I made these two covers, “Beach w/ Palm Tree” and “Starfish”. The box walls are nominal 1/4” thick made up of Solid Core 5/32” Maple cut panels mounted to 1/8” thick BB ply hand painted backers. My corner joints are much better than my previous builds but not quite as neat as I would like. However, since they are a utilitarian product for my home with a little Art built in, they work well when pulling out a tissue and the joints are only very noticeable in the photos…not so much in the real life sitting on my furniture. Comments and critique always welcome.

Really neat!!!!!!!! I have tons of 1/4' Thick BB ply scrap that I keep but hardly ever need to use. It is something I may just try. Thanks for sharing this great Idea.

Well done. Couple of requests: 1. What is the translucent material you are using? 2. Would you show what the lights are that you are using. 3. What is the light box configeruation you are using? specifically depth. well done

It is their Gel stain. Wipes on easy, rubs off difficult. Gets sticky. About three coats of on and then imeediately off. Clear Gloss Poly Spray to finish The clear #1 Pine is from Lowes. Not the cheap stuff. I buy 8" or 12" wide x 8' boards and rip them down down to 1 3/4" wide sticks. I do the same with Poplar when I can find some nice clear boards without too much green or dark grain. Most economical way to make frames.