FrankEV

TRy this Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VCTPCJQ?tag=amz-mkt-chr-us-20&ascsubtag=1ba00-01000-org00-win10-other-nomod-us000-pcomp-feature-rscomp-feature-rscomp&ref=aa_rscomp&th=1

I saw this saying hanging on a wall in my local diner. At my age it is absolutely true!!!! Cut Panel is 5/32" x 15 1/2" x 6" Solid Core Maple affixed to 1/4" BB Ply painted backer. Finished with multple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. I created the pattern using UNCONFORM for the Black font and a modified version of Superficious, to make it scrollable, for the Red script font...both can be found found on dafont.com. The Frame is just made from 3/4" x 3/4" pine, finished with Black Lacquer. This is not ART, just a fun piece I made for myself.

There are good and better blades available. I've actually been happy with my Dewalt 80 T thin kerf blade I bough when I purchased my saw. I might try the Diablo when I need to get a new blade.

That is the one I have for my small shop. I works great for a portable contractor type saw. Also the price is good. I like the fact that the rip fence is built in and is very accurate.(*) When I had my big shop in NC, I had a big professional saw with outfeed tables and a very accurate digital set rip fence. Not needed for most of us, but sometimes I wish I stll had it Edit: (*) Accurate as to square. Don't trust the measuring tape on the saw, especially when using a thin kerf blade. Always measure to the tooth of the blade to insure an accurate measurement.

A good table saw with a good quality brand thin kerf min 8o tooth carbide blade is the best tool you can have in your shop. I'd recommend buying the best one you can afford and don't skimp on the quality of the blade. Cutting a frame out of a panel is a waste of good wood! I've seen it done and it just does not look correct.

Nice pattern and very nice cutting. And, yes,the cutting panel grain adds a lot to the overall presentation. I love to see a projects like this but I would love to see the info about the paroject also. Who's Pattern? size?, material?, backer?, blades use?, number of holes? etc.

Sounds like a reasoble idea. I don't usually have a problem with the joint slipping using the Seedy Frame Clamp. However, upon initial tightening, I find I usually have to adjust the corner where the clamp adjusting screw is. The other three square up on there own.

I'll offer a few of my ways of making frames: 1. You need a table saw with a good blade. 2. Ues 3/4 thk material. I like Poplar, but any wood, even Pine will work. 3. I buy 8" or 12" wide boards and rip my frame making sticks 1 3/4" wide. Buying wide boards is more enconomical per frame and less waste then narrower material. Six foot boards will make most frames you will make for 11 or 12" wide frames. 4. I also use my table saw to create the 1/4"wide x 1/2" deep rabbet. Make some test pieces untill you get the precise dims. Keep the final test pece as a jig to future saw set ups. I cut the 1/2" deep cut first and then the 1/4". (you can use a Router with a Rabbeting bit, but I found the table saw does the job easier for me. Cut the Rabbet before you cut your miters. 5. Your frame is only as good as your corner miters. Be as precise as possible. If you decide to make many frames, a miter sled is very helpful. 6. Remember, the frame rails are 3 1/2" plus about an 1/8" longer than your panel. And your miter points are at the vertical face of the 1/2" deep rabbet. Set up stop blocks so the length is repeatable to insure a square frame. 7. Use a strap type clamp to get even pressure during the glue up. I use Titebond glue. After applying the glue I dust the glue joint with some sawdust from the same wood to insure any minor gap is filled. And I use blue tape to protect the frame face from glue squeeze out. I also reinforce the joint with framing "V" nails available from Hobby Lobby. 8. I don't think I need to discuss finishing...just do a good job of sanding no matter what finish you use. 9. I use one drive in small sawtooth hanger on the top rail and framing points to hold the panel into the frame. (Glasier points work as well.) BTW, nice cutting on the Tractor.

For portraits I won't use anything but 1/4" BB ply I get online in the precut 12" x 24" size. I did note the price jumped significantly the last time I ordered it.. I believe, a well done cutting deserves to be mounted on a substaintial permanent backer that I can feel confident won't deteriate over the near or far term. Especially so, as my backers are often painted a solid color using rattle can spray paint, stained and/or hand painted with Artist Acrylics. To me the backer is as important part of a portrait as is the cut panel. The total thickness of the glued-up 5/32" solid core ply and the 1/4" thick BB ply backer is just a tad over 3/8" and works well for mounting in a 1/4" x 1/2" deep rabbet I cut in my 3/4" thick Poplar Frames.

I'm joining you in the 80's club in May. Not sure I can even remember what a "school day" feels like, but I do still learn something new almost everyday...most of which I forget by the folloing day . Yep, I ususally check in every morning, mid day a lot and often just before bedtime as well. And, "I can't get to sleep after a midnight pee call", will result in me checking in also. Haven't had the pleasure of knowing any of you in person, but everyone here feels like a friend, that is for sure.

Not quite the same. These are solid core 5/32" or 1/4" thick ply, not vaneered mdf. Only one size:12" x 19.5" However, I do agree that the edges do not finish well and panels should be framed. IMHO, all plywood needs to be framed or trimmed.

I think you will like cutting those panels. I almost use the Maple exclusively and/ or Walnut when a dark contrast is needed. These panels cut fairly clean with both regular and spiral blades. Do sand the panels well to 600 grit before applying the pattern mounting material to prevent grain tear out when removing. When the maple was out of stock for a while I ordered Birch. Still nice but I like the looks of the maple much better. OK for painted work.

Me too...it is me and that is why it sits prodly at my desk.

That tool is the Guinevere Flexable Finisher from King Artur's T\tools that I use with a flex shaft. Probably 20 + years old. Operates at 3600 RPM. I use it with various rough gouge carving bits and I mount my Mops in it. I works great. In general, I do not have any problem with using the mop on delicate fretwork. Of course you must be careful and not to apply tooooo much pressure. Here are a some pics.

A few of my recent post in Bragging Rights were of some solid wood projects. There was the Heart Box, the Cat, and most recently the Kokopelli Band. In comments back and forth specifically regarding the Heart Box, some were amazed that I did most of the sanding using my Dremel plus a lot of hand sanding and that I did not have or use a spindle sander. My shop is very tiny and bench type Spindle Sanders are quite large and I just do not have the room to add one to my shop…at least that is what I thought. Doing a lot of research, I found that Tritan and Wen both make a small portable unit intended for handheld operation. Both are orange and look almost identical with the only apparent difference between the two is the name and price tag. The Tritan sells for over $150 while I was able to purchase the Wen on Amazon for under $50. Although both are designed for handheld operation, both offer a set of L-bolts that allows it to be clamped to a bench in a spindle-up position. The base/worktable of the unit is quite small, but I think it will be adequate for the type of projects I will be making. Rockler offers a plate that can be mounted to make a larger table, but I’m not sure if it will be needed. I was able to mount the unit to my already existing Sanding Station, so it does not take up any additional shop space. Here are some pics.

I needed a fourth statue to fill an open box in the cabinet next to my desk and have been meaning to cut a Kokopelli for a long time. I have a few different Kokopelli patterns on file, but for this Statue I needed something different. I did find many images on-line and did use two different Kokopelli images I found, to use for the basic outline. However, I added my own designs and put two together to form this Statue I call Kokopellie Band. My final version is 13” tall and 11” wide cut from ¾” Red Oak. I added tenons to the feet of the statues that fit into mortises in the Base. I used my table saw to make the tenons about a half a blade width narrower than the ¾” thickness of the statue. Cutting was relatively easy and done with Pegas #5 MGT blades. The base is about a 3 ½” wide x 11” long x ¾” thick oval with about a four-degree perimeter bevel all around eased at the top with a small round over router bit. All statue edges were eased with my Dremel using sanding drums followed by a good deal of hand sanding using 200 grit up to 1500 grit final sanding before finishing. Finishing was my typical multiple coats of clear gloss Deft Spray Lacquer. As always, comments and critiques are welcome.

Oops, thought the second pic was of a "Potty" chair . Nice cutting!

Very nice, your grandson will love it, I'm sure! Would love to be able to see it in more detail, but when the pic is clicked on it opens in the same size as the one in the post. Don't know why this happens to some posters. I crop and save my pics in Photos, Then I just drag and drop ihem into the post. When the pic is clicked on in the posts it opens full size in a separate window.. Much easy to see the detadils.

Cutting of both is fanominal!! However, unlike most others, I have a little difficuty with the Cherry. The pronounced, somewhat diagonal, straight grain seems to detract from the symetry of the cutting. I supposed if lying on a table under a pot or the like it would not matter, But, if it will be displayed as decorative piece it bothers my semces. Cherry is beautiful wood, but it it seems hard to make work in a lot of projects. I find Cherry needs to embelshed with stain to brighten it in most projects. Trivets in general, as these are, do not seem to need a strong grain but look better in wood with a lack of visable grain. Remember, this is just me comenting.

Very nice. Just a thought. If you had stack cut two layers, say Acacia and Maple, you could have a two sets when assembled. One dark, light, dark and one light, dark, light.

Really, really nice job on the cutting and your friend did a great job on the painting. Also nice work on the Frame, if I assume you made it! Sending pryers for your sister and family. I'm curious, if you don't mind. What kind of fund rasing event is the the Auction going to be part of. Is it a live Auction or a silent Auction? Will this be the only item or is there going to be many others?

Wonderful work! Pattern and cutting.

Nice job. Yep, needs the Backer!

I was being a wise A... But in truth I don't understand way anyone would cut something that small with no apparent usefulness. However, from orther comments it seems it is just the challenge of doing it. So, I guess that is OK if that is what trips your trigger, but not my thing,

Yep , like all, I was having withdrawal symtoms! Glad SVV is back.