FrankEV

Yes, lots and lots of spining. I first tried with a spiral blade but just could not get the points and pointy interior intersections sharp enough. Using the regular blades, in some areas I did the double cut to get into the interior points, but mostly cut spin cut spin, etc.

No, none are painted on. The leopard wiskers are all cut outs. The Kitten wiskers are surface mounted. I did lose one that I did not bother to try to fix. Another is actually broken but glued into place. The Kitten was a difficult piece to cut.

I converted these Spotted Leopard and Cute Kitten patterns for the scroll saw from free images found on-line. The Spotted Leopard cut panel is a 5/32x11x17 Maple solid core ply attached to a painted black 1/4 BB backer. The cut panel was Hand Painted with Artist Acrylic Paints. Cutting was completed with Pegas #2/0 and #0 spiral blades. The finished panel was protected with many coats of Deft Spray Clear Gloss Lacquer. The assembled panel is set in a custom Poplar 1 3/4” wide Frame finished with multiple coats of Minwax Pecan Poly/Stain. The Cute Kitten is 5/32x11x14 Walnut solid core ply attached to a Hand painted 1/4 BB backer. The Walnut cut panel was darkened with Minwax Dark Walnut stain. This pattern was very challenging because of the many very pointy cuts. Cutting was completed with Pegas #1 and #2/0 MGT R blades. The Backer was Hand Painted with Artist Acrylic Paints. The assembled panel is set in a custom Poplar 1 3/4” wide Frame finished with multiple coats of MInwax Dark Walnut Poly/Stain. As always, critique and comments welcome. I'll post the PDF Patterns in "New Pattern Announcements"

Great job overall. You are very fortunate that you can do something like that on your own property. Most of us cannot due to the expence, space and mostly local restrictions. Seems you have a sizeable investment in the structure and the vast quantity of stock, both monitarilly and in time. Was wondering if you would be willing to provide some general information about the business and how it is doing (not looking for specifics of course). .

3M Command strips are good. However, I have found that when left on the wall for an extended period of time (as little as a month), the removable function seems to go away. Trying to remove the strip can actually cause extensive damage to the wall surface...this happended to me when hanging Xmas decorations for just the month of December a few years ago. For most of our Scroll Saw Portraits, even when in a frame, they are very light. I use the very small sawtooth hangers on the back of my work and use very tiny small headed brass nails to hang my work. The hole that remains when removed is very tiny, almost invisible and easily filled with the smallest dab of spackle if and when necessary. If you are displaying your work in your living room, they will probably be there a long time...not sure, IMHO, I would use any kind of adheisive hanger.

Beautiful!

My trick when gluing back a piece that breaks is to after final sanding: 1. Place a piece of blue tape over the area where the piece broke. 2. Turn the work upside down on the bench or on a flat surface. 3. Check to make sure the piece will sit in the correct spot verifying the break joint fits togethers as best as possible. 4. Using tweezers, or the like, fit the piece into place so the blue tapes holes it securely in place. 5. Either using Titebond or a cyanate, apply a drop of glue to the back side, insuring it seeps into the joint crack. 6. Let set up...give it enough time, especially if using Titebond. 7. After dry, turn over and remove tape. There should be little or no glue on the surface. There may be a little bump of glue on the back that may need to be sanded down so the piece lays flat on the backer. I like to use my dremel with a sanding drum for a delicate spot like that. I have done this many times successfully.

Very well done. How thick is the cut panel? Looks thick. It is just me, but I prefer to use thin material for flat work since ther is less visible cut surfaces.

Great start. You might want to protect the colors wsith a good coat of clear, either lacquer or Poly as any mositure will make the food color dye run. A nice dark black or brown would do well for the suround.

You did not mention what kind of camera you ar using. Phone camera are good but can be difficult to get well framed pics. A decent digital camera will do better and give you more latitude with lighting situations. A simple hanging backdrop in a neutral color {I use light grey}, a set of LED photo lights from Amazon {under $30}, and tripod for the camera is all that is needed. I also use a ring light to supplement the photo lights to knock down shadows, but not always needed. My biggest problem with the light boxes they sell is the inability to hang flat work on the back wall. I want my pics to be framed square and to do so they must be hung.

Nicely done!

I was refering to any frame. Not the panel.

Very, very nice. Red with a little green backer is great. Very well done. What is the source of the second blanks?

Very well done. I just finished cutting two ornament patterns from one stack of six 5/32" thick Maple and Birch scraps. Cutting with Pegas #0 MGT R blades was a very easy. I just pin nailed the 4 corners and applied the pattern with spray adheasive to the top board.

Very nice simple but elequent portrait...well cut. A simple frame would make it a finished piece. What are the panel dimensions (TxWxH) ? Sorry I don't speak metric but I can covert!!! If the wood is a standard photo (eg; 8"x10") or Paper size (eg; A3) you can buy rather inexpensive frames at department stores or craft stores as long as the panel is not too thick to set into the frame rabbet. If not, you can make your own from any nominal 1"x2" or 1"x3" wood (I like Poplar) if you can cut neat 45 degree corners and cut a 1/4"W x 3/8" or 1/2"D rabbet. I do this all on my table saw. A band/strap clamp is needed to hold the frame square while the glue dries. I reinforce my corners with V-nails from the craft store (Hobby Lobby over here). I like the frame rails to be 1 3/4" wide. I rip down 1"x8" boards into four 1 3/4" wide sticks that I use to make my frames. Sand, stain/poly or paint, add a sawtooth hanger and you are are done. Although I do make my own frames, I do try to plan my cut panel sizes to fit standard Photo sizes whenever possible so a commercial store bought frame can be used.

Absolute great job. Voodoo Lounge...very interesting concept!

Just one word: Beautiful!

Very nice work. Yep, taking good pic's of flat work is almost as much work as cutting the panel. Good lighting is key. Very dificult to get proper color reproduction with out proper lighting.

Very nice work and a good conversation starter. While my wife was alive, we always had a minimum of two cats and one dog. Always loved having pets but since I moved to Florida have I gone animal free. At this stage in my life I prefer not to have to worry about the pets when we want to travel.

I too thought the the octagon parts were end grain glued. Yep, I could not make the one piece hoops on a table saw.

Fancy garbage pail ypu have there . Looks great, but you might want to tell this ignorant person what it realy is. Not sure why you are using a scroll saw for the project, seems to me I could make all the parts on my table saw. I'm I missing or not understanding something?

The nativity senes are nice and well cut. I'm just not a fan of dust collectors (my name for multiple layer cutting like those). The horse and owl are great. The colloration (grain or stain??) of the horse is a distraction to me. The Owl would look perfect mounted in a cabin somewhere up north.

A natural stain will richen the natural wood color, or just use a clear lacquer or poly coating. A clear coating will just brighten the wood a little.

Not my type of scroll work. but they are both very well designed and cut. Exclent work!!!!!!

You are welcome. Nicely cut. Mounting is quite unique and very imagative.