FrankEV

This paper-cut pattern I found on-line caught my eye. The pattern itself did not need much work to make it scrollable although I made a lot of edits as I was cutting due the line work being very close together and I needed stronger bridges in many places. I have no plans to incorporate the edits into my reworked pattern. I sized it to fit a 5/32” x 15” x 10” Solid Core Maple Panel which was affixed to a Hand Painted ¼” x 17” x 12” BB Ply Backer. The actual pattern contained a lot of Vein like cuts that formed the images, but they did not open well to the backer, even though I used a very large Pegas #1 Spiral blade. As a result, I found it necessary to embellish the images by also coloring the cut panel abstractly. Other areas were cut using Pegas #2/0 Spiral blades. As always, the assembled panel was protected with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Lacquer. The panel is set loose in a 1 3/4” wide Poplar Frame finished with Black Lacquer. I’m liking the very clean uniform black high gloss finish I obtain with the Rust-Oleum spray can Black Lacquer. I’m in a learning curve as the application is more difficult than paint or a Stain/Poly to get a nice uniform finish without runs or blemishes. There is one annoying problem with the Black Lacquer finish. It is hard to photograph because of glare reflections. This was the third project that I was doing simutaneously with Splat Cat and Trees of Green. The painting process was time consuming. Comments and Critique welcome.

OK, that pic is the cuttings made by frankarona. I believe it his thumb holding the top. He sent me the original pic of the sculptures from which I made the actual patterns.

Rolf, You did the pattern proud!!! It is wonderful to see someone elses take on a pattern I made available. Very nicely done. I do like the bevel on the base. Adds a little bit more class to the overall piece. Your original post would have been more appropriate in "Bragging Rights". A project to really brag about!

I believe you are correct!

Just a little FYI why there is significent time between my new project posting. Because I most often add color in the form of hand painting, I will have multiple projects occuring at the same time. I do painting in between cutting and frame making. You know paint take time to dry so I can't do different colors all at once. While these last two came together almost at the same time, a third is being painted right now and the frame for it, is drying. I have a same subject grouping of four that is waiting to be cut next, unless something else jumps up and says "cut me now". AND, my lady had a slip and fall accident, breaking her right foot and can not drive. So in between all else, for the last two weeks and probably 6 more, I'm her chaufer to Doctors and the like. Can't be scrolling while sitting in the waiting room .

I ran across this line image on-line and just had to convert it to a Scroll saw Pattern. I sized it to fit centered on a 5/32” x 12”x 12” Solid Core Maple Ply panel that I affixed to a Hand Painted ¼” thick BB Ply backer. The Tree of Life pattern needed a bit of work to eliminate a lot of dropouts. Also a lot of bridges added to the font letters. The lettering font of the lyrics to the song “Trees of Green” was very irregular shapes which made cutting with a spiral blade simple. Pegas #2/0 and #0 blades were used to do all the cutting. The Panel is set loose in a 1 3/4” wide Poplar Frame stained with Minwax Dark Walnut Stain and protected with multiple coats of Minwax Clear Gloss Wipe on Poly. Comments and critique welcome.

This is a converted stencil pattern I found on-line that I sized to fit centered on a Hand Painted 9” x 13” BB Ply backer. The cut panel is a 5/32” thick solid core Walnut stained with Minwax Dark Walnut to darken the panel. Pegas #2/0 Spiral blades were used to cut the pattern. The Panel is set loose in a 1 3/4” wide Poplar Frame stained with Minwax Ebony Stain and protected with multiple coats of Minwax Clear Gloss Wipe on Poly. I do not feel the quality of this project is as well as I can do. This is mainly because of the difficulty of cutting the thin and pointy whiskers and pointy openings and outline with spiral blades. Had I taken the time to use flat blades it may have produced a better product. As always, comments and critique welcome.

Not sure what pic you are looking at. The PDFs show the cutting patterns.

Very nice work and a great appropriate desk sign. Well cut from very nice looking Oak wood. BUT, just have to ask: Who the heck is Grace and who did she save? ......

Welll done and the color adds a nice touch, S. Good offers a lot of cute patterns. But here is my problem: What would I do with projects like this Wishing well? I don't do craft fairs or sell on line, and it would not be considered Fine Art at the Galery Co-op I belong to. Also, it is not something I would display in my own home (already have toooooo many pieces hanging on my walls) and I don't have anyone who needs a gift like this. So, I'm interested to know why you decided to make them and what do you plan to do with them?

If you design you portrait panels to be 8x10, 11x14 or 16x20 (all standard photo sizes) or 8.5 x11 or 11x17 (standard paper sizes) you can use commercial frames from places like Walmart, Michales, and Hobby Lobby. The less expensive frames usually come with glass and a cardboard backer which are discarded. However, I ahve found more and more of my portraits are not any of these standard sizes, so custom frames are necessary. My custom frames are usually simple 3/4" thk x1 3/4" wide and usually Poplar, rabbeted 1/4 x 1/2" and mitered on table saw, no glass. I use a homemade miter sled to get relatively neat accurate miters. I glue the miters with Titebond Ultimate using a frame making strap clamp and reinforce the joinsts with frame V-nails. I have standerdized my portrait panels to 5/32" thk cut panel and a 1/4" backer, so the 1/2" deep reabbet always works well. Frame finish depends on portrait subject. I have done almost every thing from distressed to, most recently, high gloss Black Lacquer. Most often I use various Minwax stains and finish/protect with either Clear Spray Poly or Wipe-on Poly. I have use Polycrylics, but not a big fan. Application of a pre-stain and a lot of sanding makes for a quality frame. My portrait panels are set in the frame loose using framing points (glasier points also work). Since Scroll Work portraits look best when hung flat on wall and are very lightweight, I install just one small saw tooth tap-in picture hanger centered on the back of the top rail. A very small headed nail is all that is required to hang on wall and they do almost no damage to wall.

Full 3/4" thick. I did mine from Walnut and Maple.

That be me!

Watch for a Private Message from me.

You did good!!!

This one was very challenging as the cuts were so close to each other. I use additional copies of the printed pattern to make rough painting stencils, but it is still not easy getting the colors in the correct locations. I also play with shading of the larger areas to get different colors in different areas without worring where the exact cut lines are. Thanks for the kind words.

Very nice work, I'm sure she will love it. I'm usualy not critical of your work as it is always well done. In this case It is not a critisim of your work but of your choice of using all Script Capitals for the name. It is just my opinion but it does not read well. I think it would have been much better as a Script word "Lisa".

I found this free stencil pattern on-line. I converted it into a scroll saw pattern and sized it to fit a 5/32” x 10” x 11” Solid Core Maple cut panel that was affixed to a hand painted ¼” x 12” x 13” BB ply backer. All cutting completed with Pegas #2/0 Spiral blades The colored portion of the backer was painted with Artist Acrylic paints while the 1” wide perimeter mat area of the backer was painted rattle can spray Chocolate Brown for a strong contrast with the natural Maple panel. As usual, I protected the finished panel with multiple coats of Deft Clear Spray Gloss Lacquer. Once again, the panel is set loose in a 1 3/4” wide Poplar Frame stained with Minwax Honey Maple and protected with multiple coats of Minwax Clear Gloss Wipe on Poly. I plan to remake the frame for this piece as I am unhappy with the corner miter joints. Comments and Critique welcome.

After first cutting, a C. Dearing Cat Pattern, I also found and converted a few other free Cat images into scroll saw patterns. This group of Cat portraits is the result. All cuttings are done in 5/32” solid core Maple ply. Backers are hand painted 1/4 BB ply. I used Pegas #2/0 and #0 Spiral blades to cut the patterns. All panels were hand painted with Artist Acrylic’s and finished with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Spray Lacquer. All panels set loose in 1 3/4” wide Poplar frames that were finished with multiple coats of Black Lacquer. Grey Black Cat - 9” x14” Black and White Cat – 9” x 14” Orange Cat - C. Dearing – 8” x 14” Comments and Critique welcome.

A return Happy, Healthy and Safe New Year to you and yours as well as to all our SVV scrolling faimily.

Just a fact that most of the older generation leather fire helmets were black. Today, the FD's that have upgraded to better protection and better visibility have gone to the light weight composite material helmets that are bright YELLOW.

Our furry and feathered friends do make for very nice pattern subjects, don't they? Very nice and well cut.

Bumped up to top. Check out my updated original post.

Not to hijact the thread, but I'm curious. I had seen in some posts with photos of members shops, someone had a mag lamp that was much larger that these ring type lamps and rectangular. I would guess the mag glass was like 6"x8" or maybe even bigger. Not sure if it actally was a lamp also. My biggest objection to my mag/lamp is the size of the viewing glass. Anyone know about physically larger mag lamps?

I think I'm going to try the Black Lacquer on the frames for these panels. I allways sand to 600 or even to 1500 and apply a wood pre-stain conditioner before staining and also used a Lacquer wood conditioner before applying clear lacquer. I have also painted with All-in-one Paint/Primer. However, I have never primed before applying lacquer. Wondering what kind of primer do you suggest?