FrankEV

Beautifully done that last time!!!! Little confused by your post title. " Granddauter's and Flower". Not sure what I'm looking at so I think I must be missing something. Edit: Woops, did not realize it was a video.

Great Job. I might suggest you mount it on an oversized backer (standard picture frame size) of a contrasting color and install it in a frame. I'm sure your friend would love to be able to hang it proudly. Don't forget to date and sign it.

Very nice and well done! Love the color work. Question. What is your reasoning for shrinking this pattern, and others, as you mention? I have a tendancy to enlarge most patterns as I feel a small project just does not give the visual impact I want to provide.

Great Idea and very well done.

My point exactly! I guess what I was suggesting was for us (collectively) to consider how well we want our projects to look and, by stepping outside the box a little, do things that will improve designs/patterns where and when appropriate. Steve produces a new project every day which results in the need to keep some things simple. However, I don't believe that means he wants us (the users) to follow his designs blindly. He, himself, often offers suggestions for improvements to his designs. I would like him to mention that there are alternate construction methods other then just the Slab/Tab. Maybe, have a standard statement in his write up that says there are alternate construction methods possible (such as the use of miters and dados), when his pattern uses the Slot/Tab construction for simplicity purposes. To be perfectly be clear, my comment is in no way a criticism of Steve or his great service to our community.

Pretty darn nice SCRAP work! You might want to knock down the intensity of the lights with some frosted translucent lining material, but otherwise, beautiful job. The following is just an observation, my opinion and nothing to do with these very well done pieces specifically. I like Steves scroll work designs, but I'm not a big fan of his "tab" construction for projects like boxes and these holders. They are relatively simple to do, but just do not do the projects justice. Especially when used with any kind of plywood. The use of mitered corners and dados for support of the bottom are fairly simple construction methods that I believe would make these projects, and other similar projects, look much better. As an alternate construction, miters and dados are very easy to use to replace the tabs and in most instances the only extra tool needed is a table saw which most of us have and use anyway.

I cut these 7 Santas to give away as Xmas presents to friends and family. They were given on Thanks Giving so they could be hung for the month of December. I also cut 30 of the S. Good 2021 Ornaments. Pic only shows the first 20. Some have been given already and some will be given with our annual cookie exchange amoungs the neighbors on Christmass Eve Eve. I also cut this S Good "Santahouse" for a present to ourselves to hang on the front of our home.

Overall, very nice work. However, the white paw prints, not so much.

Very nice job...well done. Me, I like color, so I would paint, but that is just me.

The job New Guy did on that pattern was great. I don't think there are many cases where there is "NO" table editing. There is more on some patterns then others, That is one reason I don't stack cut my work and I can truly state each of my pieces are "one of a kind", even if they have been cut many times by others. I have also found that many times that when a pattern I develope works on paper, it does not really work that well when cut and then I need to take the "table editing" back and incorporate it into the final pattern.

After the first cutting, an 11x14 H. Botas Pattern called “Horse” a few weeks ago, I decided to find and convert a few other free images into horse scroll saw patterns. This group of Horse portraits is the result. All cuttings are done in 5/32” solid core Maple, Birch or Walnut ply. Backers are 1/4 BB ply either left natural or stained with Minwax Dark Walnut as appropriate. I used a few different Pegas blades, both MGT R and Spriral, of various sizes from #2/0 up to #3 to cut these patterns. All panels were finished with multiple coats of Deft Clear Gloss Spray Lacquer. All panels set loose in 1 3/4” wide distressed Poplar Frames finished with Minwax Early American Poly/Stain. Horse – Botas – 11”x14” Cut panel Horse Stallion – 10”x10” Cut Panel mounted on a 12” x 12” Backer. Horse Running – 11”x14” Cut Panel Horse Proud – 12”x15” Cut Panel Horse Jumping – 11”x14” Cut Panel Horse Palls – 15”x12” Cut Panel Horses 3 – 14”x11” Cut Panel Comments and critiques are always welcomed.

Yes, very nice job. I'm not a hunter, so wondering what does the 126.5 points refer to?

Great job, well cut and framed. I think a group of these patterns will be wonderful.

Nce job, well cut!

Others have said it but, IMHO, it is the quality of the ply you are using, no mater how you attach your pattern or the condition of the drill bit. The finish side vaneer on good quality BB ply will not fall apart, assuming you are using the proper size sharp blade. I most often use spiral blades that produce a generaly rougher cut and still get very good small details in the BB Ply I use. Any loss of detail I may get is due to my poor cutting technique and not the wood. However, I do go one step further and purchase 5/32"x12"x19" solid core progect panels from HD. Slightly more expensive but they are intended for cricut/laser cutting and the quality of the vaneer is even better than the good quality BB ply that is available.

Very NIce. I ride an MC also, but not a chopper. Mine is a full dress HD Street Glide Special. Any solid wood would have been better than plywood. I know you are "over there" but I think you must have places like we have here (Lowes and Home Depot) which are the modern day substitutes for the old fashioned "Lumber Yards". They usually have solid wood like Pine (which I would not use), Poplar and Oak at a minimum. Poplar is a good substitute as it cuts nicely and can be finished well also.

Yes, lots and lots of spining. I first tried with a spiral blade but just could not get the points and pointy interior intersections sharp enough. Using the regular blades, in some areas I did the double cut to get into the interior points, but mostly cut spin cut spin, etc.

No, none are painted on. The leopard wiskers are all cut outs. The Kitten wiskers are surface mounted. I did lose one that I did not bother to try to fix. Another is actually broken but glued into place. The Kitten was a difficult piece to cut.

I converted these Spotted Leopard and Cute Kitten patterns for the scroll saw from free images found on-line. The Spotted Leopard cut panel is a 5/32x11x17 Maple solid core ply attached to a painted black 1/4 BB backer. The cut panel was Hand Painted with Artist Acrylic Paints. Cutting was completed with Pegas #2/0 and #0 spiral blades. The finished panel was protected with many coats of Deft Spray Clear Gloss Lacquer. The assembled panel is set in a custom Poplar 1 3/4” wide Frame finished with multiple coats of Minwax Pecan Poly/Stain. The Cute Kitten is 5/32x11x14 Walnut solid core ply attached to a Hand painted 1/4 BB backer. The Walnut cut panel was darkened with Minwax Dark Walnut stain. This pattern was very challenging because of the many very pointy cuts. Cutting was completed with Pegas #1 and #2/0 MGT R blades. The Backer was Hand Painted with Artist Acrylic Paints. The assembled panel is set in a custom Poplar 1 3/4” wide Frame finished with multiple coats of MInwax Dark Walnut Poly/Stain. As always, critique and comments welcome. I'll post the PDF Patterns in "New Pattern Announcements"

Great job overall. You are very fortunate that you can do something like that on your own property. Most of us cannot due to the expence, space and mostly local restrictions. Seems you have a sizeable investment in the structure and the vast quantity of stock, both monitarilly and in time. Was wondering if you would be willing to provide some general information about the business and how it is doing (not looking for specifics of course). .

3M Command strips are good. However, I have found that when left on the wall for an extended period of time (as little as a month), the removable function seems to go away. Trying to remove the strip can actually cause extensive damage to the wall surface...this happended to me when hanging Xmas decorations for just the month of December a few years ago. For most of our Scroll Saw Portraits, even when in a frame, they are very light. I use the very small sawtooth hangers on the back of my work and use very tiny small headed brass nails to hang my work. The hole that remains when removed is very tiny, almost invisible and easily filled with the smallest dab of spackle if and when necessary. If you are displaying your work in your living room, they will probably be there a long time...not sure, IMHO, I would use any kind of adheisive hanger.

Beautiful!

My trick when gluing back a piece that breaks is to after final sanding: 1. Place a piece of blue tape over the area where the piece broke. 2. Turn the work upside down on the bench or on a flat surface. 3. Check to make sure the piece will sit in the correct spot verifying the break joint fits togethers as best as possible. 4. Using tweezers, or the like, fit the piece into place so the blue tapes holes it securely in place. 5. Either using Titebond or a cyanate, apply a drop of glue to the back side, insuring it seeps into the joint crack. 6. Let set up...give it enough time, especially if using Titebond. 7. After dry, turn over and remove tape. There should be little or no glue on the surface. There may be a little bump of glue on the back that may need to be sanded down so the piece lays flat on the backer. I like to use my dremel with a sanding drum for a delicate spot like that. I have done this many times successfully.

Very well done. How thick is the cut panel? Looks thick. It is just me, but I prefer to use thin material for flat work since ther is less visible cut surfaces.

Great start. You might want to protect the colors wsith a good coat of clear, either lacquer or Poly as any mositure will make the food color dye run. A nice dark black or brown would do well for the suround.